MYOG F1 remote canister conversion

Sweet. How did you manage the vaporizer tube?

Hi, the vapouriser tube is #13 gauge stainless steel 'hypodermic' tubing bent to the required shape.

cheers S

Hi Stuart

Very nice! I am especially impressed with the heat exchanger arrangement.
And I 100% agree with the desire to have a control valve at the burner after the heat exchanger too.

Cheers

Hi Stuart,

Very nice, extremely impressed with your high quality workmanship.

Tony

I am very impressed too.
I had to take a close look at the F1 just to remind myself why I could not do it.
OK, now I am depressed.
Franco

Thanks guys – and thanks for the inspiration provided by yourselves and fellow contributors to this forum.

Franco – it's not too hard to do with just some basic hand tools like hand drill, a saw and file, some taps and a bench vise

I failed playdough at kindy…
Franco

Hi Roger

I hadn't thought of the vapouriser tube as a heat exchanger but you're right of course. Which then leads to the obvious question – how much heat is required to be exchanged?

The answer is just 0.8% of the stove's heat output – from the latent heat of vapourisation divided by the heat of combustion (butane and propane give much the same figure).

I need to move the vapouriser tube a little further away from the flame to get less heat coupling…

cheers S

Hi Stuart

You are right that very little heat is required in practice – see my article on using a Brunton Stove Stand with a strip of copper as a heat exchanger. In that case the gas goes nowhere near the flame even.

However, I wouldn't sorry about moving the vapouriser tube away – it really doesn't matter if it runs red hot! Take a look at the huge vapouriser tube on an XGK! All that can happen is that the hydrocarbon chain might start to break down inside where the tube is red hot – but it has to break down somewhere for the stuff to burn anyhow.

Cheers

Neat job!

Has anyone come up with a neat clamp/fuel take off for a cigarette lighter refiller yet?

Agreed it doesn't really matter if the vapouriser tube gets red hot, but the hotter it gets the more heat is conducted down the tube to the rest of the stove which can then become a bit too hot to handle after running for a while. That is all I am trying to reduce – I never like to settle for something that can easily be improved…

Cheers S

Hi Rog,

>Has anyone come up with a neat clamp/fuel take off for a cigarette lighter refiller yet?

I am not sure if this is what you mean.

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"Has anyone come up with a neat clamp/fuel take off for a cigarette lighter refiller yet?"

They have! As I recall, a member in Japan made a great little clamp which fitted on butane cylinders of the size which fitted into curling tongs.

It was excellent! (o:

Through my work on making this and another stove, I have realised something I hadn't before: the type of metal used for the mixer tube has a large effect on the heat conducted from the burner to the stove base.

Aluminium has a very high thermal conductivity (240 W/K/m), so stoves made from aluminium, such as this one, conduct a fair amount of heat to the base.

On the other hand, a previous stove made using a Pocket Rocket has a steel mixer tube which has a much lower thermal conductivity (43 W/K/m) and so much less heat is conducted to the base.

This effect might be useful in a canister mounted stove: a aluminium stove might conduct a useful amount of heat to the canister and help to keep the contents warm in marginal conditions.