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Has anybody made the Ray Way backpack?
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Jun 11, 2009 at 5:17 am #1507442
*yawn*
Jun 11, 2009 at 5:22 pm #1507637Nick, I’ll take a stab at it. I can’t claim to be an expert, but here are a few thoughts:
1.) Since G wraps around F, that means G will be a double-layered piece of fabric when it is sandwiched between H.
Will all of those layers be too thick to sew through?
No, not for even the lightest machine. If you were sewing leather or 1000d, probably yes.
If not, should G also be sewn into the seam where H meets A?
Not necessarily, if H is large enough for perhaps 1" of G
to be inserted. This would allow enough area to stitch G to H and distribute loads on the stitching.Would it be wiser to use Grosgrain ribbon for G?
If you were to extent G through H and sew it all into the seam with A, two layers of regular nylon webbing will create a 'hump' that will be difficult for the presser foot to 'climb' over. You just have to slow down at that point and perhaps help feed the fabric under the presser foot (without bending the needle). Grosgrain would make an easier 'hump' to go over.
However, I think grosgrain at G is pushing the limit. It can abrade around the ladder lock and bunch up on one side of the slot. Regular webbing seems overkill, but there is not a choice in between.Would an x-box stitch be a wiser choice compared to several rows of zig-zag stitches?
I prefer X-box with bar tacking at the top and bottom of the X. If you go with zigzag, a three-step zigzag is stronger.
Should H be eliminated all together and instead sew G into the seam of A?
Definitely not. Except for the lightest loads.
2.) Regarding B:
I was thinking two layers of 330 Denier Cordura. Thoughts?
Should they both be the same size?One layer of B is plenty.
What type of stitch would you recommend for attaching them to A?
Straight stitch around the perimeter. Straight stitch around the perimeter of C where it attaches to A/B and several bar tacks through A/B/C.
3.) Regarding sewing C to B:
Would an x-box stitch be a wiser choice compared to several rows of zig-zag stitches?I prefer X-box with bar tacks at top and bottom of the X.
4.) Thoughts on using Grosgrain ribbon for C, D, and G.
If E is a sleeve of 330d, there is no need for C. Sew E directly to A/B. If E is not sewn through to A/B, use regular webbing for C for strength and resistance to rolling (curling up).
Use regular nylon webbing at D because it holds better in the ladder lock.
I think grosgrain at G is pushing the limit. It can abrade around the ladder lock and bunch up on one side of the slot.
Regular webbing seems overkill, but there is not a choice in between.5.) Regarding H, I was thinking of using 330 Denier Cordura. Thoughts?
Yes, use a scrap piece of 330d.
Additional thoughts on placing the ladder lock down low and upside down:
I haven't tried this orientation, so I can't speak from experience, but if one reason for placing the ladder lock at the bottom of the shoulder strap is to eliminate chafe to the inside of the upper arms, doesn't it create another, perhaps larger and more annoying chafe point at the elbows and forearms where the strap comes up, out, and then hangs down from the ladder lock?
Anchoring the ladder lock right side up can make your material choices easier: grosgrain at the top and a single layer of nylon webbing sewn into H at the bottom.
Hope this helps. Jump in and start sewing. You’ll learn more and have more fun by doing it than anything you could read. Good luck.
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