Jan 8, 2006 at 6:49 am #1217492
I was thinking of ordering the Ray Way backpack kit. Has anybody made it yet?Jan 8, 2006 at 8:05 am #1348111
No. Decided against it after seeing the two Fanatic-Fringe Packs. Both of their packs have made appearances on this BackpackingLight.com website. One seems to have become the preferred pack of BPL Staffer Carol Crooker. Unless you are intent on making your own, either of the Fanatic-Fringe packs would do just as nicely. Fanatic-Fringe is a great company to do business with.Jan 8, 2006 at 11:15 am #1348118
Yes, it really doesn’t make much sense to make a pack as there is very little difference in price between the kit and a ready-made pack. It’s just that I always learn something valuable when I make a kit like that, something I can use later when I have to fix it or make another one.Jan 9, 2006 at 9:41 am #1348170
Yes. I made the pack as my second sewing project ever (the first being a Ray-Way tarp). Ray’s instructions and illustrations are clear. It’s a first-class kit.
My final pack weighs 9.7 ounces and I am thrilled with it.
After completing my own, I decided to purchase another kit for my wife. Instead of sewing it for her, I am teaching her how to sew. She’s catching on quickly and I can see that the finished pack will be a lot more meaningful to her.Jan 9, 2006 at 10:25 am #1348172
I thought that you had a good reason for wanting to make your own pack. You certainly can’t put a price on the knowledge and satisfaction you will get from doing so. Good for you!Jan 10, 2006 at 5:52 am #1348211
I made a pack using Ray’s instructions from his book (beyond backpacking). Mine worked out great and was a great pack. I don’t have experience with Ray’s kits, but they get decent reviews. You might be able to save some money by going through a fabric store to buy your materials and use Ray’s book for the instructions (my copy hangs out at the library). Among others, http://www.owfinc.com will probably have what you want.
If you change your mind, you wouldn’t go too wrong with the fanatic fringe packs.
MYOGJan 10, 2006 at 10:57 am #1348226
I bought the kit from RayWay and completed his pack. The instructions are first rate. He gives you just enough materials to complete the project with very little waste.
Since making the ray way pack, I’ve applied what I learned to make a series of other types of packs. I’ve made a G6 type silnylon pack (2000 cu in) that weighs in at about 6 oz and a spin cloth version of the ray way pack that weighs in at about 5.
The ray-way pack is hard to beat, however. After making several packs I’ve given all of them away accept my RayWay pack, my Granite Gear Nimbus Lattitude, and my Golite daypack.
Since they did away with the masters kit on the jardine website I’ve been shopping for materials instead of buying a whole kit. After making a few varients, I’ve got some ideas on a final pack design.
I would agree with one of the previous posts, however. The Fanatic Fringe packs look really good for the same type of money.Jan 11, 2006 at 6:26 am #1348321
Did you buy the DVD about how to make the pack? Or are there written directions that are sufficient?Jan 11, 2006 at 8:23 am #1348334
I just followed his instructions … I did make two of his stuff bags and a quilt as my first sewing projects before I started on the pack.Jan 11, 2006 at 8:29 am #1348335
have you considered a Gossamer Gear G4 pack kit instead of Ray way?Jan 11, 2006 at 9:55 am #1348343
I didn’t know they made one. I’ll look at their site. Thanks.Jan 11, 2006 at 10:09 am #1348345
The Gossamer Gear site has a pdf file with directions to make a pack. I will print it out later and see if I can figure it out.Jan 11, 2006 at 10:48 am #1348351
Try this link for the G4 pack.Jan 11, 2006 at 11:07 am #1348352
sorry, I forgott to mention the kit was sold at quest outfitters, for about $25 I beleiveFeb 15, 2009 at 4:45 pm #1478044
Does anyone have the RayWay Backpack DVD?
NickFeb 15, 2009 at 6:09 pm #1478084
I do, but i don't think it is needed. I would gladly trade it.
-TimFeb 16, 2009 at 8:13 pm #1478358
@jpmatteLocale: N. Georgia
I have made the quilt,tarp/net tent and pack kits.My pack weighs in at 8.5 oz. I love the pack and quilt.My wife found the tarp/net tent entrance too weird for her.I, on the other hand will more than likely,order the 1 person version kit.
I really did enjoy going through the building/crafting process quite a bit.
PatrickFeb 25, 2009 at 8:39 pm #1480829
Gossamer Gear has instructions on how to make the original G4 on their website and that's free. Just thought you might want another option…
Click hereMay 24, 2009 at 4:17 pm #1503270
I am also building a ray-way style backpack based on the instructions in Beyond Backpacking/Trail Life.
I need some clarification on two things though:
1.) What are the dimensions of your shoulder strap reinforcement panels, how many of them did you use, and made of which material?
2.) Did you attach the shoulder straps to the reinforcement panels with four rows of zig-zag stitches (as suggested in the book) or did you use x-box stitches instead? Same for the strap attachment that spreads the load at the bottom.
Others are welcome to chime in also :)
NickMay 26, 2009 at 7:59 pm #1503780
I've been working on a rayway pack and am a current owner of a second gen Golite Breeze. There are a couple of differences and I'm leaning towards the updated golite breeze, but would like to hear opinions from people who preferably have both packs and have compared design differences…
1) shoulder strap buckle is attached to the hip tab on the rayway pack (extra webbing goes up and out away from hip) while the golite has the buckle attached on the shoulder strap/padded area near the chest with extra webbing going down. Thoughts on this one?
2) the mesh pocket stops a couple inches short of the top on the rayway where the golite goes all the way up to the edge of where the extension collar starts. porque?
3) the "Y" top/back webbing pack closure on the rayway versus the single strap connecting the the clip sewn into rough webbing at the base of the extension collar.
any opinions on these three features would be greatly appreciated. HollaMay 29, 2009 at 7:34 am #1504304
*bump-a-roo* on the previous two.Jun 1, 2009 at 12:19 pm #1504943
To add to the list of questions:
Is Grosgrain ribbon or Nylon webbing used in the backpack strap construction? Grosgrain weighs less, is thinner, and not as strong as Nylon webbing.
Which would you recommend using and why?
NickJun 1, 2009 at 4:33 pm #1505039
My preference is to use nylon webbing for the piece that goes into the 'adjustable' part of the ladderlock. It's stronger for where it enters the side/back seam or tab and doesn't slip in the ladderlock. I use grosgrain on the 'fixed' end of the ladderlock because the forces applied are more 'shear' on the stitching than 'tearing' through the grosgrain. Also slipping is not an issue.
Jun 5, 2009 at 10:03 am #1506159
I really appreciate all of the suggestions so far. I have nearly zero sewing experience and I am about to take on making my own tarp, net-tent, backpack, and quilt. So your help has been VERY much appreciated :)
A) Backpanel, 330 Denier Cordura
B) Reinforcement Panel
C) 1.5" Flat Nylon Web. Overlaps D by ~.5"
D) .75" Flat Nylon Web
E) Shoulder strap padding & casing
F) Upside-down ladder lock
G) .75" Flat Nylon Web
H) Reinforcement Panel. Spreads load.
Notice that in the Ray-way backpack, the ladder-lock buckle is positioned upside-down and located closer to A then E. According to rayjardine.com:
"With the Ray-Way pack, the buckles are located at the bottom of the pack, such that you pull up to shorten. While this arrangement is unfamiliar to most hikers, it is much more effective. Namely, it moves the buckle and the webbing tail from out of your armpit area, to down on the pack where it belongs. This streamlines the pack, makes it more comfortable to carry, and prevents chafe to the inside of the upper arms."
On with the questions:
1.) Since G wraps around F, that means G will be a double-layered piece of fabric when it is sandwiched between H.
Will all of those layers be too thick to sew through?
If not, should G also be sewn into the seam where H meets A?
Would it be wiser to use Grosgrain ribbon for G?
Would an x-box stitch be a wiser choice compared to several
rows of zig-zag stitches?
Should H be eliminated all together and instead sew G into the seam of A?
2.) Regarding B:
I was thinking two layers of 330 Denier Cordura. Thoughts?
Should they both be the same size?
What type of stitch would you recommend for attaching them to A?
3.) Regarding sewing C to B:
Would an x-box stitch be a wiser choice compared to several
rows of zig-zag stitches?
4.) Thoughts on using Grosgrain ribbon for C, D, and G.
5.) Regarding H, I was thinking of using 330 Denier Cordura. Thoughts?Jun 9, 2009 at 5:29 am #1506894
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