sub-2 pounds 4 season tent: hacking Nemo Morpho
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this is the rough sketch I made using a diagram software called Dia.
I have deliberately made the pole and guyline at same angles so they balance each other. Does anyone think this idea has any merit?
>They double as pack stays.
cool idea! I will think about it.
I have made some mods to make the design simpler.
Straight pole sleeves are much less complex to make then slanted poles. Roger in his DIY notes on winter tent says he uses slanted poles to prevent water from dripping on his gound sheet. I dont think that reason is relevant here as the doors open at sides.
I did some calculations today to work out pole configuration and the tent height.
The front pole uses 6 x 18in sections and 3 x 45° arches. It has a peak height of 42.5in and the base width came to 65in.
The rear pole uses 4 x 18in section and 3 x 45° arches. It has a peak height of 25in and the base width is 49in.
here is the updated design to reflect approx. pole heights:
I am sure a wool/silnylon would be very effective but it also weights a lot. I realised that I would be wearing a wool base and VBL which can in effect be turned into a condensation box. The idea is to breath into your vbl and the condensed water is then absorbed by your wool base layer.
Now how do you breath into your VBL? I think a non rebreather mask may be the answer.
This is the only one I have found which doesnt cover your mouth. From what I understand about non rebreather masks air is inhaled through oxygen reservoir bag which is filled via the the tube you can see. The exhaled air goes out via two one way valves. Idea is to cut off the bag and the tube and attach a tube to the one way valves with the other end inside your VBl.
Using a single 135* arch with lightly flexed poles like the lightwave isn't a bad idea. the spring in the poles naturally tensions the fabric for less rustling in a breeze without being overstressed on smaller radii and you get the 'near vertical at the bottom' living space without the wind catching edges. For the shape you have designed a 'lighter lightwave' may be the way to go, but your seaming work will have to be good to get 4 season strength from a lighter body fabric.
Catastrophic failure at high altitude in bad conditions is not good for the health. Better to have a margin of safety factored in, and be prepared to carry that margin as the extra 10oz.
Anecdote: I camped at 2500m in a sierra designs lightyear in the Sierra Nevada in spain, and it survived a 60mph storm with one cracked pole joint which I had to whip with some wire. I was sat up half the night bracing the front pole with my shoulders wondering how much more the tent would take. The sunset was beautiful though.
> I notice Roger designates them as summer tents. But don't let that deter you. You'll find out what the design will cope with during field trials.
I call that model a summer tent because it is a single skin. You don't get much protection from flying spindrift. However, for a number of reasons it has taken storms and snow. The use of the guy ropes is important.
This shows another fairly old 3-pole tent which does have a double skin and 'straight' Easton poles. (A slight pre-bend but no corners.) The weather than night had been … poor, but as Rog said it did happily 'cheat the wind'. We were quite comfortable inside it.As I said above (with pic), I have since moved to a 4-pole version with corners, for increased stability. By switching from that 'Titan' fabric and Al poles to silnylon and CF poles I have managed to reduce the weight significantly.
Tent design is FUN!
Cheers
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