Big South Fork NRRA, Day 1

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

I awoke after a remarkably warm night to a temperature of 12 degrees, a colder reality than I thought my homemade quilt could have handled. My tarp and bivy had kept me dry and reasonably shielded from the wind over a very cold night of flurries.

Unfortunately, my ankle screamed at me when I put weight on it. I lay back down and proceeded to massage it and stretch it. I then found that with care, I could walk on it, with a bit of help from my trekking poles. As I cooked breakfast I considered my options.

The JMT continued another 21 miles and predicitons were that tonight would be colder than last night. I might manage it with ibuprofen and an ace bandage, but I wasn't sure if I really wanted to, both due to my ankle's discomfort and the prospect of a colder day of hiking than yesterday. I couldn't really stop and rest during the day without breaking out all my cold weather gear. I had done nearly 15 miles the previous day (of a planned 10.5 miler), and had only stopped with a pack off 3 times, never for more than 15 minutes. I didn't care for another day like this when temps were supposed to be 10 degrees colder.

My fiancee was spending two nights at Charit Creek Lodge, a Christmas to herself while I was of backpacking. A look at my map showed Charit Creek Lodge to be only four miles away down an old road bed. I might not be allowed to stay with her since I didn't have a reservation, but I could at least visit, warm up, and move on to camp a mile beyond. I decided to give this a try. Thus, I packed up and headed over the bridge across Station Camp Creek.

My ankle was tender and it felt like someone shoved a pair of pliers under the skin, clamped down on muscle, and twisted every time I polled the ankle on hidden rocks. But as the ankle warmed up, ibuprofen kicked in, and the harsh trail turned to gravelled roadbed, I became more comfortable, with only a mild limp as I walked. The frozen mud kept collecting on my trekking poles.

A real Tennessee mudcicle……

After several stream crossings in which I managed to just keep the water below the goretex liner, I managed to reach Charit Creek Lodge.

I was pleased to find Leslie was the only guest there, and the host had already assured her I could stay with no problem. We even had our own cabin…….

complete with double sized bunk and stove…

and a couple of extra bunk warmers, Sissy and Owen……

In exchange for helping move some propane bottles, wheelbarrow some firewood, and starting a fire in the dining hall's stove, Chris (the caretaker) even hooked me up with a share of the lodge's dinner of steak and fried potatoes. After a tough first day, I was finding a bit of heaven in a very cold place. Night-time temperatures dropped down into single digits that night, and I stayed warm and happy in the 50's in our cabin.

Thursday, January 3, 2008

I was up early since I knew my fiancee was heading out fairly early and getting a ride to my truck. The 9-degree temperature was bracing as I stepped out of the warm cabin. I wanted to walk out and see Twin Arches along the way. Many switchbacks gave way to steps and actual staircases. I headed out and up and quickly arrived at South Twin Arch.

North Twin Arch also provided a great view.

I continued up the way until I hit the last staircase, the biggest one yet.

It gave way to fantastic views back into Charit Creek Gorge.

I pushed on up to the parking lot. Frost was forming in my beard, and I decided to keep walking up the gravel road rather than sit and chill (in the most literally and unpleasant sense of the word). A mile and a half up the gravel road, my truck rounded the bend and I slid into its warmth. Happily, I noted the pain in my ankle was barely noticeable. And the frost quickly melted away from my beard. Though I had not hiked the full JMT section I had planned, I had enjoyed the experience very much, and looked forward to returning to the area in the future.

BP you should right a book. I always enjoy reading your posts -you might have a hidden novelist in there somewhere. I want to know what camera you have- those pics are really good.

"I want to know what camera you have- those pics are really good."

I use an Olympus SP-350, a slightly heavier digital (7.5 oz), but with an outstanding ergometric grip for taking shots. It also runs on 2 AA batteries which is a requirement for longer hikes where I wouldn't have a chance to recharge the NiCad batteries common in many lighter cameras.

I heard about Big South Fork when I lived in OH and TN, but never made it there. Great photos of some terrific scenery. I hadn't realized how rugged looking it was. Thanks for sharing.

I love the BSF, I used to go all the time while living in Knoxville but recently relocated to Winston-Salem, NC so it's a long haul for me now. I'll have to get the JMT through there done some time though; nice pics and nice report. Sometimes it's ok to just give up on the hardcoreness and throw down at the lodge. I was in the smokies at the same time and it was cold for sure…

Wow, Charlie aint kiddin,I really enjoyed reading ur post alot,mabye hes right!You should really consider writing a book about your journeys.I know Id definetly buy a copy, and i'm sure many others as-well.Thank you for sharing, you indeed do have a talent worth taking note-of.Ive shared some of your posts with a couple of relatives of mine who are writers, and they are also impressed! Please get out and hike some more, so we all can read about more of ur adventures!

-Tom