I’m finally back in MN after a week in western MT. I have 100F heat indexes to look forward to this weekend. But first, my (long) trip report:
I fell asleep on Friday night feeling pretty relaxed, finally in Montana after a hectic evening packing the gear and preparing the food the night before. I left the campground having choked down some oatmeal that I was in no mood to eat–but surely the calories were needed for the days ahead. I began with Tyler, with some expectation that we might walk together on and off for the entirety, since we were both sans-packraft and on the same route. But, as I reached the trailhead, the slow buildup of anticipation was released and I was off. The first 23 miles of trail passed very quickly, with easy trail riding just about the Dearborn. I caught up with The Teton group at the river crossing, and we walked together and yo-yoed a little for the next 8 miles or so. Straight Creek Pass came and went in the blink of an eye, though the deadfall on the back side slowed me a little. I eventually left the Teton group at a creek and continued to rocket ahead, feeling good.
It became apparent to me that I had missed the turn to trail 248 over Elbow Pass. I had tried to determine how far I had gone past, and lost about 20 minutes looking at the map and weighing my options. I had calculated incorrectly that I was 2 miles past the trail (I was .77 miles past) and decided that I would continue north on the original route I had planned over White River Pass. I would decide how to handle the Flathead the following day. Until this point, I had not stopped for a break except to collect more water at a stream and covered the ~24 miles at 3.3 mph. The trail north to Benchmark was muddy, but I made OK time despite stopping again in a mile to reconsider my initial decision. As Derek noted, the trail heading north was well travelled and relatively deadfall free. After stopping for dinner at deer creek I made a final push to find a good campsite before I needed to pull out my headlamp. Luckily, there was a beautiful clearing just above the bridge over the SF Sun River. At ~930p I set up camp and hung my food in a very satisfying 10-4 CDT hang…though the breaking strength of the dead tree might not have been ideal. I collected some dead and dry sticks and enjoyed the small fire while massaging balm into my wet feet. As I lay down to sleep I heard the footsteps of something heavy approach my camp. It did a half circle of my tent before heading off in a different direction. Unwilling to see what it was, I (as Abby suggested later) convinced myself that it was an elk and went to sleep.
I awoke just before 6a, feeling quite refreshed and only a little cold (even with an icy crust on the tarp). Was startled by a young male elk walking within 30 feet of me as I fiddled with a knot in the bear bag line. The first miles were a little chilly and stiff, but I was plenty warm by the time I reached tricky ford. The fast water ran just above my knee and were it not for my trekking pole when I slipped, might have gone even higher. Moving upriver just a little probably would have afforded an easier crossing. I was lucky enough to have Derek’s footprints to follow once the snow began, so I did not waste much time worrying about the “right” path as I approached the pass. About 200 vertical feet from the top, Derek began his side-hill adventure. I followed a set of grizzly tracks straight up the slope to the ridge after deciding that I could get my bearings from there. The sights were spectacular from the top, and after a brief respite I walked the ridge slowly, and finally was confident that I knew where to go. I glissaded down to the real pass where I met Derek’s footprints again, and only a minute later, the man wearing the shoes. We chatted while descending the trail and tromped over the occasional obstacle. The creek crossing before the river was a bit hairy, but we were able to find a shallower spot with good footing. We rested on the banks of the river before Derek began inflating his packraft and I went downriver for 200m or so to try to spot a crossing. All I found was fast water, and the clean, white bones of an elk. We parted, and I headed down the river on the south bank. About halfway down I spotted a braid in the river, and picked my way across three sections of the river—none over knee high, and less difficult that Dan suggested. Feeling elated, the deadfall along the trail to the confluence was a little easier. I was a little nervous when the wind picked up to 30-40mph and rain began, but it was short lived, and none of the subsequent showers lasted long. The extensor muscles at the front of my ankle/shin were beginning to hurt, and the long walk downriver was wearing on me. I had hoped to see some animals in the Mud Lake flats, but only a few deer were present. The exposure from the afternoon sun was unpleasant, but the beautiful partially-burned tamaracks were a pleasant balance. The Black Bear pack bridge was a wonderful sight, and I was famished. I ate a large dinner near the horse fencing. At 840p I departed upriver, hoping to find camp before nightfall. I did a little running and a lot of crazed singing to make the time pass more quickly, but the trail was muddy and pockmarked from horse travel, so I only moved at 3 mph with my headlamp for the last hour. I was lucky to find a clearing under some large cedars just north over the Little Salmon Cr pack bridge. I set up my camp, managed to start a fire despite the rain from the afternoon and fell asleep with my food just after midnight.
I awoke at 5a to the sound of moderate rainfall and some thunder. I was motivated, but not motivated enough to break camp in the rain. Luckily the rain had passed when awoke after another 40 minutes of snoozing. I made myself a double iced coffee and scarfed down some trail mix before quickly pulling my stuff together and heading at around 6a. I headed up Little Salmon Cr with urgency. The encroaching brush and spiderweb of deadfall soaked my pants within a mile. I made the trail to Palisade Lake at just under 3 mph. The trail up was a different story as I was slowed to 1.5 mph, though the final push up the snowy slope went quickly, following Derek’s La Sportiva, and the Teton crew’s Saucony Peregrine and Brooks Cascadia prints. At the top, I followed Derek’s footprints, assuming with a GPS and Army Scout training he would not lead me wrong. That was a wrong assumption in this case, and after nearly tipping off the side of the mountain and stayed low and slid between rock and tree until I could safely glissade to the flatter section below. Lots of tricky deadfall on the switchbacks heading down, perhaps the straight line over it all might have been faster—especially since my legs were still easily lifted up and over the logs. Dropping down into the old growth spruce forests was the highlight of the entire walk. It’s the first time I’ve been in the woods and have walked UNDER the trees, instead of through them. Add to that a huge creek exploding off the bottom of the mountain and cascading down 500 ft over a quarter mile and I was absolutely in awe. Soon after, the weight of 14 (17) miles to go set itself on my shoulders and I soldiered on. I bumped into the Teton crew ~.5 miles from the bridge over the creek near the trailhead. I walked with them up to the forest roads, but as they suspected, I thought they were being affected by the sun and dehydration, and back-tracked. As I had no desire to bushwack or route-find over the forest roads to the campground, I picked a known (albeit tedious) route along the gravel road to Van Lake and up the highway in the ditch. I ran the downhills on the gravel, and then along the highway, ran then walked ever other 90 seconds for 2 miles or so. The sun and dehydration was kicking in for me at this point, and thought that I had at least 5 miles on the highway to the campsite. Four miles passed and, as I noted earlier, I walked up the gravel road to the campground ~100+ feet and could not get my brain to overcome the desire to see a sign. Luckily, Dave was kind enough to turn me around after a loud curse, and I ran most of the way back to a happy girlfriend and pup waiting for me with pizza. A sharp rock and slippery can required that I shotgun half of my beer, but it was still delicious.
Dinner and beers with Seth and Derek at a bar in Bigfork were in order, as was a quick return to the hotel for satisfying sleep.





















Thad also informed me when we got to the lake that his ankle was hurting pretty bad. He was hopeful some rest and tape would bring the swelling down but in the morning it was worse. I tried my best to convince him to hobble out to Meadow Creek and I would drive around to get him but he’s stubborn. At a not much reduced pace, we took off up Little Salmon Creek the next morning.











