Ruta Locura Sale/ New stove setup
May 9, 2015 at 7:41 am #2198078Gary DunckelBPL Member
Yes, Bob–my 4Dog SP 900 lid with a swapped out "knob" weighs 21 grams. I made a little loop from .062" CP (type 2) titanium, slid a short piece of silicone tubing over it, slipped the ends into the screw hole and bent the ends to make an "omega." I did this to all of my 4Dog lids–the 450, 600, 900, and 1400 ones. A carbon fiber one would be lighter, of course.May 9, 2015 at 8:34 am #2198091
Oops, well the standard RL sizes aren't big enough for JB (4.5 inches, my ruler says), and the lid included with the JB "kit" lid is listed as 1.3oz (36.8g). Hmmm…
Looks like 4Dog
Mainly getting the lid for the convenience because I just don't prefer the JB snap-on. Either way it's lighter than both the stock MiniMo lid which weighs 30.4g, and the stock Primus Eta 1l lid at — get this! — a whopping 62.8g!
While I'm at it, the MiniMo cup alone (well, with cozy and handles) is 206.9g and the Eta (with stock handles) without lid is 227.4g… somewhat respectable for a HX pot. Nevertheless, I'm going to do some boil tests with the much lighter Toaks 1350 which might be a better option for mild weather.May 9, 2015 at 9:57 am #2198104
Its 1.3oz total for the kit… Including stove and heat shield. The lid is probably 0.2 or 0.25 oz.
He should be able to make a lid for the minimo…. I believe I will have him make me one for my 1.3 liter evernew. It will be flat instead of having a lip though because he doesn't have a mold for it.May 9, 2015 at 11:21 am #2198124
I have a Ruta Locura #2 Lid for my JB Ti and it weighs 7 grams on my scale.
I bent up an FMS 300T to fit my JB. Its a little big, but it works. My boils mirrored what others are getting, 5 grams consumed per 2 cup boil vs 4 grams with the JB. Time was about twice as long as my JB. Also have to keep it running slow or you can smell the fumes. I also made a reflector out of an aluminum baking pan to keep the canister cool. I have the BRS 3000T inbound via China Post, and my modified FMS 300T still works just fine with a MSR Titan pot. Many thanks to Josh.May 9, 2015 at 5:16 pm #2198212A DBPL Member
This is a really neat kit, and helpful thread. I converted from alcohol/esbit to a SolTi last summer (partially due to fire restrictions in the Sierra) and never looked back. This makes it even better. I've got one on the way.May 9, 2015 at 5:38 pm #2198219
Its 1.3oz total for the kit… Including stove and heat shield. The lid is probably 0.2 or 0.25 oz.
OK I guess I mis-read. That's very good. I'd actually like one with a lip, which this one appears to have. Hope I can order separately because I already have 2 BRS stoves and need only the lid. I just sent an email to RL to inquire.May 9, 2015 at 6:15 pm #2198230
The flat lids made out of carbon fiber are very simple to make, and very lightweight.
When you shift over to the three-dimensional ones, you are looking at more cost and more weight.
–B.G.–May 10, 2015 at 10:18 am #2198390
Thanks for jogging my memory.
I happen to have some CF/nomex-honeycomb 1/8" sandwich remnants left over from another hobby (radio controlled airplanes). Super light stuff. I can make a disc with 3 or 4 little spacers on the underside to keep it from sliding around.May 10, 2015 at 10:24 am #2198392
I don't know, but 1/8" sounds mighty robust. The last piece of carbon-fiber sheet that I used was thinner than 1/16".
–B.G.–May 10, 2015 at 10:26 am #2198393May 10, 2015 at 10:41 am #2198396
Dan, I don't recall exactly where I purchased an assortment of CF sheets, but it was one of the major online retailers.
–B.G.–May 10, 2015 at 10:45 am #2198397
DragonPlate has 1/32" sheets.
–B.G.–May 11, 2015 at 4:54 am #2198534
For radio-controlled airplane hobby materials, I get them at ACP.
They have a lot of good stuff and sell in small quantities, though I haven't compared prices with others in a long time. They also have, of course, resins, epoxies and vacuum bagging systems for small parts. However a home vacuum food bagger can also work for small parts.May 11, 2015 at 5:22 am #2198536
The material I have is a 1/8" sandwich panel (not plate) with very thin CF weave on the outside laminated to an aramid honeycomb on the inside. It weighs ~3oz per square foot.
Based upon that info, I could use a 4.75" square to make a lid that would weigh about 13g.
Shouldn't take too long to make… maybe I'll get to it today.May 11, 2015 at 5:08 pm #2198713
Made it today.
Very close to calculated weight at 13.4g
I didn't realize until after doing a test boil that this stuff is actually perforated with tiny holes because (I'm assuming) it is aerospace grade and requires venting holes for pressure differential, so there was moisture between the panels. Dried it out with a heat gun and applied a very thin layer of epoxy to the underside and no more issues.
The lid "handle" is some Cuben fiber repair tape. Don't know how long it will last.
As usual, with a first "one-off" project it took longer than anticipated, but there's a lot of geek in me and I enjoyed the process.
Image showing the "sandwich" of CF and aramid honeycomb
Bottom of the lid, with the little curved guides that keep the lid centered on the pot
Top of the lid with cuben fiber "handle"
Very close to predicted weightMay 12, 2015 at 6:18 pm #2199015Richie SBPL Member
Very nice setup. That thing is a real lightweight blowtorch. I'd say it's even quicker than the jetboil stoves. Little fiddle to get it through the rings and into the fins of the ti cup – but no worse to get on and off than the jetboil attachments.
I'd say it's even a shade quicker than the jetboil burner in my unscientific stovetop test.May 12, 2015 at 8:30 pm #2199048
At 3 grams, this makes a half decent windscreen.
I used a grommet punch to make the holes.May 16, 2015 at 7:40 pm #2200069A DBPL Member
I received mine this week. Total weight of cooking setup: 5.7oz (Ruta Locura Kit + Sol Ti with handle removed). I think it's pretty hard to beat the overall weight, efficiency, simplicity of this system.May 17, 2015 at 2:35 pm #2200275
Really cool idea for the windscreen/heat deflector. Did you add the holes for oxygen intake or ?
Also, any ideas of how to store it/pack it?May 18, 2015 at 9:17 am #2200431Gary DunckelBPL Member
I want to give Josh Leavitt a big shout-out for the carbon lids he sells. I bought two of them, a #2 and a #4. These little guys are amazingly light and effective. I like the way you remove them via the oversized rim–no need tor a bulky knob. The #2 fits both my BPL Firelite pot and the Jetboil Sol. The SP 600 lid (#4) is also dual use, in that it fits a SP 450 cup when you turn it upside down. Great lids, made and sold by a great guy!May 18, 2015 at 8:05 pm #2200613
To be honest I have not quite figured out (yet) how to store the pie plate without mangling it. I did punch the holes for air intakes as I believe they are required. I have only done a couple of burns outside with a light breeze, but I think the fuel economy improved not only from wind protection, but from radiating more of the heat back to the pot and heat exchanger fins.
EDIT: The pie plate fits in the top of the JB Pot by overlapping the ends with the help of the cut used to slide it onto the stove. Not as elegant or durable as Josh's, but workable.May 21, 2015 at 10:01 am #2201281likes hikesBPL Member
I saw this while I was browsing the Ruta Locura site:
Hopefully it is on there soon, I really want to give this setup a shot.May 25, 2015 at 3:38 pm #2202091Monty MontanaBPL Member
@tarasbulbaLocale: Rocky Mountains
Hi Josh! I had already been playing around with the mini BRS stove and a few HE pots: the Optimus Terra Weekend HE and the Olicamp XTS HE, both aluminium, and the Jetboil Sol Ti (HE) when I came across this post. Both of the former are constructed with an overlaping flange that can rest right on top of the BRS support arms without any modification; the JB can just barely rest its fins on the support arms but could be a bit dicey if bumped.
Now, what I notice is that without any modification to the support arms, the distance from the BRS burner head to the pot base for all three pots is the same as that for the JB burner to the JB pot base.
As Roger C. pointed out in his article on Carbon Monixide and stoves review, the distance from the burner head to the pot bottom is crucial to avoid flame quenching and thus excess CO generation. The generation of CO by JB was rated as one of the lowest for the dozens of stoves he tested. By reducing that distance the system will still boil water, as you have aptly shown, but I fear at the expense of dangerous levels of CO, which would not be a problem if one does no cooking in the tent or vestibule.
So to avoid toxic levels of CO, I think I'll bend the support arms in the other direction so as to contact more of the fins and thus be more stable and yet maintain the greater distance from the pot bottom.
Thanks for some ideas on how to make this work! Happy trails.Jun 5, 2015 at 9:07 pm #2204987
"So to avoid toxic levels of CO, I think I'll bend the support arms in the other direction so as to contact more of the fins and thus be more stable and yet maintain the greater distance from the pot bottom"
Have you tried and tested this? I am thinking you may be on to something. I just tested a new unmodified BRS with a Jetboil Ti pot and got 4 gram boils with no quenching or smells. Also, with the support arms twisted how was the stability of the pot?
ThanksJun 6, 2015 at 6:25 am #2205019
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Our Community Posts are Moderated
Backpacking Light community posts are moderated and here to foster helpful and positive discussions about lightweight backpacking. Please be mindful of our values and boundaries and review our Community Guidelines prior to posting.