BRS-3000T stove Spotlite Review

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Home Forums Campfire Editor’s Roundtable BRS-3000T stove Spotlite Review

Viewing 8 posts - 176 through 183 (of 183 total)
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    Bob Moulder
    BPL Member


    Locale: Westchester County, NY

    Step one is try a fresh (and recent vintage, lol) canister.

    Could be gummed up per Roger, or the manufacturing standard changed for the pin that opens the Lindal valve. And perhaps even the fuel has ‘gone stale’ or there is some kind of oxidation or other chemical change over time. Plenty of petroleum/fuel experts around here to provide the details.

    Very interested to know how the problem is resolved. But try the easiest steps first.


    David Franzen


    Locale: Germany

    Roger, Bob, thanks for the help.

    I got the stove running without the yellow flame.

    What I did was I took the stove apart again and reassebled it again. Only this time I tightened all threads a lot harder. When I got the stove all threads were thghtened extremely hard – I could hardly take them apart. As we have a saying for tightening threads: tight, tighter, loose (you break the threads), and as other people here have warned about the weak strength of the threats,I did not tighten them very hard the first time I took it apart. Probably I did not tighten them enough. It was solid, but maybe there were air-gaps or whatever in between them.

    as you might be interested:

    • the old canister was not the problem. (I got that canister from a friend who stopped hiking years (decades?) ago and use it for stove testing. How could you tell it is a primus, Roger?) The same problem occured with a brand new MSR canister.
    • “not screwed the stove down quite far enough” – I dont think so. I did it a couple of times on Friday, and now I can not replicate the problem.
    • “the needle valve is filthy and needs cleaning” – I cheched the valve before running and it was clean.
    • canister has lost all its propane and the temperature of the canister is close to 0 C – No, the canister came from my living room at 20°C, outside was about 5-8°C.
    • “manufacturing standard changed for the pin” – I can’t say.
    • “fuel has ‘gone stale'” – dont think so, it is running now and also running with other stoves. BTW, the canister is definately more than 20 years old.


    Bob Moulder
    BPL Member


    Locale: Westchester County, NY

    Glad you got it running correctly.

    I have 2 of these stoves and have never taken them apart. One of them has been used quite a bit and one of them just a few times. I’m happy to report no differences in performance between the two.


    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member


    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    Maybe when you re-assembled and tightened really hard, the pin that pushes the Lindal valve open was extended a bit so it opened the valve a little better

    I’ve had canisters that didn’t open very good unless I really torqued the stove down.  Must be a variation between different canisters.  I usually try a canister briefly at home so I can use a different one if it doesn’t work.  On another canister the Lindal valve wouldn’t close so I had to leave the stove on until it was empty.

    Justin Lafrance
    BPL Member


    Locale: Canadian Rockies

    I’ve just tried out a new BRS-3000T purchased from Either it’s dangerously faulty or I’m doing something quite wrong. When I screw the stove into the canister, gas rapidly shoots out from the point where the stove and the canister meet. This happens right before the stove is even fully screwed onto the canister and just gets worse if I continue to screw it on all the way. The canister is brand new and works perfectly with another stove that I have.

    I recall reading that older versions of the BRS-3000T had problems but that the newer ones work well. Am I doing something wrong or could there be a problem with this particular stove? Any suggested fixes?

    Laurent Blanchet


    I bought mine in Canada through Amazon. It’s the exact same stove but the brand is FOME (Amazon USA link: ).

    I’ve been using it on a daily basis at work (I work outside) and also on hikes. I’ve never used my PocketRocket again. I use it with my MSR Titan Kettle and I must say that you wouldn’t want to go bigger in terms of pot diameter especially if you use the smallest 110g canister as stability would become an issue.

    It can simmer super easily as you can run the stove with the valve slightly cracked open and it won’t shut off.

    Be careful though, it’s so small you might loose it!

    Roger Caffin
    BPL Member


    Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe

    Sorry guys – I missed some of the last few postings as i was up in the mountains at the time.
    Justin’s problem – sounds for all the world like a missing O-ring around the socket.
    Fwiiw, my several BRS-300T stoves still work very well.


    Hikin’ Jim
    BPL Member


    Locale: Orange County, CA, USA

    My take on all this is that quality control on the BRS-3000T is just a bit spotty.  The crud in the threads and valve area that Stephen @sdparks found is really scary.

    I’ve been documenting cases of creep deformation, a (relatively) slow loss of structural strength over time.  I get cases with guys like Gary running 20 minute snow melting burns without a problem and then I get other people where their pot supports droop over like the wilting petals on a cut flower.

    Here are:

    It looks like the alloy on the stoves is inconsistent.  Some are fine.  Some are not.

    My thought is that one should run a 15 minute burn on high before taking the stove out on the trail for the first time.  If the stove can sustain a 15 minute burn without the pot supports experiencing creep deformation, then hopefully it’s one of the good ones and you’ll be fine out on the trail.

    The pot supports really get blasted by heat.


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