Topic

Reduce “flapping” in silnylon shelters

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PostedFeb 16, 2015 at 7:21 pm

As a trekking pole user, I'm a fan of the pyramidal-shaped tarps that use a pole a center support. I use the SMD Wild Oasis or Gatewood Cape tarps, depending on the likelihood of bugs/rain.

While I'm generally very pleased with my shelters, one thing that drives me crazy is the "flapping" that this style of shelter undergoes when subjected to a heavy (20+ mph) wind load. This flapping is not only unbearable when I'm trying to sleep, but 1) reducing my livable shelter space by up to half and 2) puts dynamic stresses on my stakes which can cause them to loosen during the night. Anyone who's had a shelter crash over in the middle of the night, during a rainstorm, will feel my pain.

These shelters are elongated hexagons, with the door being one of the four elongated panels. The door-half is designed to face upwind. This mean, consequently, that the shelter's broad backside is exposed to the wind, further exacerbating silnylon's tendency to flap, even when properly tensioned. No matter how tight it is, a surface held in place by tension alone is going to want to flap. It needs to be braced.

Enter – a revelation I had during a recent weekend backpacking trip. Use your second trekking pole to brace the back wall of the shelter. Place the handle of your trekking pole on the ground flush with the vertex of the shelter, where the two elongated sides of the hexagon come together. Extend the trekking pole and hook the tip into the other trekking pole's basket (the pole that's holding your shelter up) at the apex of the shelter. You've just created a brace for the long, wind-bearing back wall of your shelter, which was formerly held in place by tension alone. Not only does it immediately reduce the flapping and movement of the shelter by 75% (I'm sure some physicist here could run some actual numbers), it increases livable space even in calm conditions, because even when the silnylon stretches and sags during the night, it sags against the support brace, rather than hanging down into your living space.

Not sure if anyone's ever tried a similar technique, but for me it was pretty revolutionary. I'm now much more confident in the wind-worthiness of my shelter, all without changing designs or adding a single ounce of weight.

Ken Thompson BPL Member
PostedFeb 16, 2015 at 7:30 pm

Like an inverted v setup mid users use quite often to gain more livable space by getting the pole out of the middle. And most use a pair of poles so why not use them both to increase the strength of your structure. Win, win.

PostedFeb 16, 2015 at 7:44 pm

Precisely. I don't necessarily like the idea of putting the other pole on an angle, as I've found that for my own setup, it compromises vertical strength to too great an extent. That being said, why not use anything and everything at your disposal to increase the seaworthiness of your shelter? This of course got me thinking down the rabbit-hole, and I realized that filling your (framed) pack with full water bottles and leaning it against the shelter wall can also provide a mid-surface point of support to decrease flapping.

On other side benefit of additional bracing is that with less flapping, less condensation falls onto your bag during the night. Actually that might be the most important benefit of all, as the other ones are merely annoying inconveniences, rather than actual bad situations.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedFeb 16, 2015 at 8:27 pm

Pole is stronger for the weight when there's one pole vertical.

If you have two poles of the same total weight, they will each be half the diameter, but the strength is the square of the diameter, so each will be 1/4 as strong, and since there are two, together they're half as strong.

Plus, for the same peak height, if the pole is at an angle, it will be longer, so it will be heavier, plus it's strength is less because it's longer so it will bend more.

If you have an inverted V, and you push down on the two poles, they'll tend to bow outward and won't be so strong.

But, if it stops flapping and provides more floor space, a little extra weight of pole may be worth it. And if you're using trekking poles you have anyway, then it doesn't weigh anything extra.

I know what you mean about pyramid flapping in the wind. Noisy.

Maybe it actually puts less force on tent stake – spreads the force over a period of time – like having an elastic cord guyline. The only time a tent stake pulled out was when it was in real sandy soil – I should have put a rock on it.

Hiking Malto BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2015 at 7:49 am

I made a cuben pyramid but the issues you described are not limited to silnylon. I designed my shelter to use two trekking poles exactly as you describe. The only difference is that I reversed the pole and put the tip in the ground. It gives a better bite, the handle isn't in the dirt and it it easier to protect the shelter fabric from the handle than the basket and tip.

In high winds the pulled out side is supported by the trekking pole and I believe adding a good bit of strength to the system. The key for me was getting the two trekking pole handle tight up in the peak which took some trial and error.

David Chenault BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2015 at 9:25 am

A good idea Kevin, one I'll have to try.

I don't think there's any way to eliminate deflection entirely in such shelters, but good design can certainly minimize it. The BD Megalight is a big offender in the flapping arena, while the Trailstar, Solomid, and Seek Outside BT2 are noteably still and quiet.

PostedFeb 17, 2015 at 10:02 am

Using short guylines, or even staking out through the webbing loops directly, also helps to reduce flapping. This greatly reduces or eliminates movement perpendicular to the pull of the guylines which keeps the fabric panels in place.

Dale Wambaugh BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2015 at 10:06 am

Many UL shelters aren't good in the wind:flat panels flap. Other than design, a taut pitch, site selection and orientation to the wind are all you have to work with.

Bob Shaver BPL Member
PostedFeb 19, 2015 at 12:18 pm

I reduce sag and ensure continual tautness of my silnylon tent by using lengths of surgical tubing. They are sold in fishing gear stores as "snubbers". They have hardware on both ends that make it easy to attach to tent lines. They are good for having a tent survive super strong gusty winds, because the tent can flex a bit, but comes back to shape after the gust.

Blog post: http://backpackingtechnology.com/tents/shock-cords-for-tent-lines/fishing snubber

Dave @ Oware BPL Member
PostedFeb 19, 2015 at 2:19 pm

Give you head room. Heavy rocks as anchors to pull it away to increase tent space. They need to be on the lower third of the tent.

Climbers on porta-ledges use an extra long thin tent pole that runs from the two bottom corners next to the cliff up to the middle of the opposite side wall to get extra space too on half pyramid shaped shelters.

The pattern cut of the pyramid has a lot to do with the flapping or lack of. Hex shaped shelters are harder to cut the pattern properly.

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