Introduction
In the fall of 2022, I embarked on cold-weather camping with my newly purchased Zpacks Duplex, quickly discovering the tent’s susceptibility to heat loss and condensation issues. Despite various modifications and upgrades to my sleep system, including a higher R-value sleeping pad and a radiant barrier, I continued to experience significant cold and dampness. Through extensive field testing using temperature and humidity sensors and infrared imaging, I identified that the tent’s Dyneema fabric was highly transparent to infrared radiation, akin to standing in front of an open window, leading to substantial heat loss. This study delves into the intricate heat exchange mechanisms in tents, revealing that fabric transparency to infrared radiation plays a crucial role in thermal comfort, and proposes optimized tent setups for improved cold-weather camping.
Table of Contents
Table of Contents • Note: if this is a members-only article, some sections may only be available to Premium or Unlimited Members.
- Introduction
- Table of Contents
- The Problem
- What does my yard look like at night in infrared?
- Infrared Characteristics of Different Tent Fabrics
- Measurement of Infrared Transmissivity in Three Fabrics
- Calculated Transmissivity and Emissivity of Three Tent Fabrics
- How Does Tent Material Infrared Transmissivity Impact Tent Comfort?
- Radiant Power Test Results
- Results of the Simulated Sleeping Bag Radiant Heat Transfer Comparison Test
- Heating Your Tent in Cold Weather
- Tent Performance Data Measured in 23 Overnights in Cold Temperatures
- Summary of Performance Results for the tested tents
- Conclusion
The Problem
I thought the biggest problem with the Duplex was the high fly pitch (discussed in our review) that allowed cold winds to blow through the tent. I made modifications to seal the vestibule doors and the horizontal ventilation screens at the tent ends (as best I could, but some wind still got through. I was still cold.
I purchased a Thermarest Xtherm sleeping pad (R-value 6.9) to replace an older Sea to Summit sleeping pad (R-3). I was still cold.
I was also getting wet from frozen condensation. I was getting condensation in the tent when I was not even in it!
I used temperature and humidity sensors to monitor what was happening inside and outside the tent.
My infrared imager revealed that the tent’s walls were getting colder than the outside air after the sun went down.
I experimented with fabricating and installing a radiant barrier that I attached to the tent canopy. The barrier met with some success but drastically increased the tent’s weight, and the barrier could fail in elevated winds.
I purchased a Durston X-Mid Pro to enjoy several features, including the ability to pitch the fly to the ground. The low pitch did improve tent comfort. I equipped the tent with a radiant barrier, improving its resistance to condensation in cold weather and raising the interior temperature by several degrees. I installed additional reflective panels over interior net areas. The latter additions did not produce measurable performance improvements. These modifications more than doubled the tent’s weight, increased its packed size, and were not sufficiently robust to survive high winds. I abandoned this approach and decided to study the heat exchange mechanisms at work in tents used in cold weather conditions.
Here is a photograph of the barrier in action:

Using my infrared imager, I determined that the Dyneema fabrics in my tents were transparent to infrared radiation, making them somewhat like standing in front of an open window. There were other issues to investigate:
- Would switching to polyester or nylon tents reduce radiant heat loss?
- Would different ventilation strategies minimize condensation?
- Would double-wall tents increase warmth and mitigate condensation?
I purchased a small portable thermal imager to supplement my laboratory thermal imager in evaluating the behavior of tent fabrics and tent wall configurations.
I spent dozens of nights gathering data in various tents in various weather conditions.
Eventually, I began to understand the complex heat exchange mechanisms between the tent occupant and the outside environment. I also created new test procedures to measure tent construction’s impact on comfort.
In this article, I will describe what I learned and, using this knowledge, how to maximize tent comfort in cold weather while minimizing pack weight. In the near term, I will write two articles. This article will concentrate on thermal comfort, and the following article will discuss condensation.
My Findings: A Summary
- Your tent is a secondary system for keeping you warm in the winter. Your sleeping bag (or quilt) and a high R-value sleeping pad are the primary tools for keeping warm in cold weather. They must have enough warmth to insulate against the coldest temperatures you will encounter.
- Double-wall tents are not much warmer than single-wall tents, certainly not enough to justify the extra weight, bulk, and complexity. Changes in tent fabric will not increase the warmth of your tent, either.
- Your tent will balance heat transfer to and from the sky, the ground, the surrounding air, and you.
- Radiant heat transfer from the tent to the clear sky reduces the surface temperature of the tent walls to below the ambient temperature, causing the interior air temperature in the tent to drop below outside temperatures.
- When tent wall temperatures drop below the outside air temperature, heat transfers from the outside air, and, at times, the ground will halt the temperature drop inside the tent and cause it to remain close to the outside air temperature.
- Outside air temperature is the most significant determinant of interior tent temperature.
- The amount of heat produced by the tent occupant in a sleeping bag has minimal impact on the tent’s interior air temperature. The warmer the sleeping bag, the lower the occupant’s impact on the tent’s interior temperature.
- Ventilation is vital to influence humidity within the tent. As long as the quantity of ventilation does not result in breezes through the tent (which increase convective heat losses), ventilation has minimal impact on the tent’s interior temperature.
- A cold-weather tent that minimizes weight and provides the best thermal comfort will be a single-wall tent constructed from the lightest fabric consistent with expected snow and wind loading demands. I have chosen Dyneema for my cold-weather tent. Since this tent is for cold weather, screens, interior netting, or interior structures are unnecessary. The tent’s ventilation design should provide for protected, adjustable openings. Your tent’s design or pitch to the ground (or snow) must eliminate wind and spindrift in the tent.
- The tent shape, support, and pitching mechanisms must meet the expected environmental conditions. I avoid winter camping when severe weather is forecast. So far, a trekking pole tent is adequate for my needs.
- Pitching your tent beneath a cloudy sky or a dense tree canopy is the cheapest and lightest way to increase interior air temperature..
I conducted extensive testing and measurement to reach my findings and conclusions.
I used the following tents:
| Tent # | Model | # walls | Fabric |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tarptent DiPole 1 2W | 2 | Polyester |
| 2 | Tarptent Notch Li | 2 | Dyneema |
| 3 | Durston X-Mid 1 Solid | 2 | Polyester |
| 4 | Durston X-Mid 1 Fly Only | 1 | Polyester |
| 5 | Durston X-Mid 2 | 2 | Polyester |
| 6 | Zpacks Duplex | 1 | Dyneema |
| 7 | Durston X-Mid Pro 2 | 1 | Dyneema |
| 8 | Durston X-Mid Pro 2+ | 1 | Dyneema |
Weather conditions were generally clear to partly cloudy, with calm to moderate winds (up to 20 mph) and temperatures from the mid-30s to single digits (°F). Humidity ranged from 95% to 40%.
Unfortunately, I could not consider all tent constructions and weather conditions, so my findings and conclusions are likely incomplete. However, I hope the information I provide here will enable the selection of cold-weather tents that best meet user needs.
When I set out to write this article, I had a pretty straightforward set of expectations on how it would end. I was wrong!
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Discussion
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Thin mints are tasty. Chocolate on the outside with a white, sugary, minty inside.
Sort of like oreos, but oreos are not very tasty.
The Girl Scouts sell thin mints. There are other products similar
Try https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00390FDQ4
Cheers
I would call those thick mints :)
Fair enough.
Very nice either way.
Cheers
I made some crude measurements with probe type cooking thermometer. If I would record continuously it would be more meaningful. This is just a concept.
I measured 5 cases:
#1 – cowboy camping – it was clear but protected by trees – calm – air temp was 31.5F, surface of sleeping bag was 35.5. The surface of the sleeping bag was 4F warmer than the air because of the surface layer of air right next to the sleeping bag.
#2 – cowboy camping – clear – about 50% protected by trees – calm – air 47.7, surface 43.7. The surface of the sleeping bag was 4F colder than the air because of radiative heat loss.
#3 – tent (silpoly mid with open door) – cloudy – calm – air outside 32, air just above sleeping bag 38, surface 42. The air inside the tent was 6F warmer than the outside air even though the tent door was wide open. The surface of the sleeping bag was another 4F warmer because of the air layer.
#4 – tent – clear about 50% protected by trees – windy – air outside 41.5, air inside 43, surface 44.7. The air inside tent was 1.5F warmer than outside air and the surface was 1.7F warmer than the inside air.
#5 – tent – clear about 50% protected – calm – air outside 33, air inside 40, surface 38.5. The air inside the tent was 7F warmer than the outside air and the surface was 1.5F colder than the inside air (a little radiative heat loss happening).
One over-all conclusion is if it’s calm and clear, if I sleep in the tent instead of cowboy camping, I can have the same comfort if it’s 10.5F colder. The tent lowers the effective lower comfort rating of my sleeping bag by 10.5F. In #2 the surface of my sleeping bag is 4F colder than the outside air. In #5 the surface of my sleeping bag is 6.5F warmer than the outside air.
Another over-all conclusion is that if I’m protected by trees or clouds, the tent adds 6F of warmth. In #1 the surface of my sleeping bag is 4F warmer than the air. In #3 the surface of my sleeping bag is 10F warmer than the outside air. The tent doesn’t add as much warmth if it’s cloudy or protected by trees, as if it’s clear.
Another conclusion is that when it’s windy, most of the advantage of the tent is “blown away”. I didn’t have a night of windy cowboy camping so can’t compare. In #4 the surface of my sleeping bag is 3.2F warmer than outside air.
Based on Stephen’s data, I think a DCF tent would not add as much warmth as a polyester or nylon tent. The inside air in the tent would be colder because of radiative heat loss because the DCF doesn’t absorb IR. And the surface of the sleeping bag would be colder than the air inside the tent because of radiative heat loss. Maybe 5F colder? Maybe 10F colder?
One could calculate how much extra down one would need to make up the less warmth, and compare the weight of that to the weight saved from using DCF.
I was only in 50% clear places. Ridges and trees blocked half of the clear night sky. If I was on a mountain top or a wide plane I could get 100% clear and the temperature differences would be bigger.
One could continuously measure the air temperature outside the tent, inside the tent, and surface of sleeping bag, and wind speed and get better data.
If you know the temperature of the surface of the sleeping bag, then it’s just conduction down to your body. It doesn’t matter if it’s clear, windy, or whatever. (assuming the sleeping bag cover impedes wind enough).
As a cranberry farmer who must protect crops from frost both spring and fall I can add that there is another factor which will affect your comfort significantly. My measured temps between the upland and the depression where the cranberries live can be 15F or more on a clear, windless night. Cold air pools in depressions. To stay warmer, pay attention to terrain and do not pitch in a depression of any kind, even in wind. A depression that affords protection from the wind is much colder than upland with wind.
We know well that on cloudy nights, or with wind that prevents pooling, our crops are safer than clear calm nights.
You may be surprised to learn that we protect crops from frost damage, which occurs at somewhat below 32F, by turning on the irrigation. Water in the process of freezing never drops below 31F and so even with 1/4” of ice on the crop, if the irrigation is run until the earth warms and the ice melts, no damage will occur.
But there is no helpful pitching advice from that fact. :)
that is a really good point
or, cold air can happen at a higher elevation and then flow down a valley. If you sleep at the bottom of a valley it can be a lot colder.
VERY detailed and well researched article. Thanks for all that work.
I do most of my winter camping in my TT Moment DW (silnylon fly). That tent has excellent low-to-high ventilation with its two floor level end vents and two peak top vents. As the name implies it’s a double wall and mine is the TT hybrid solid fabric panels with upper mesh venting panels.
While I do not doubt your results Stephen “I know what I feel” and when I open my inner and fly doors on a cold winter morning I definitely feel that the outside air is colder – by at least 10 F. I attribute that to the small interior volume being easier to keep “warmer” with the heat from my -20 F. down mummy. When I burn my telescoping oil lantern inside the tent the temperature, by my measurement, is usually 15 F. higher (inside at “eye level” when sitting) than the outdoor temperature, so another 5 F. over no lantern. Windy nights lower that difference, even with one lower and one upper vent closed.
I’m happy with my Moment DW in winter use for many reasons but I agree with Terran, It is a shelter, not a Thermos bottle. It only keeps me a bit warmer on still winter nights.
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