The Range of Light. Just saying it out loud makes my pulse quicken and my eyes look to the horizon. The term was coined by John Muir himself, and is a wonderfully visceral description of California's Sierra Nevada Mountains that he roamed and loved. "After 10 years spent in the heart of it, rejoicing and wondering, bathing in its glorious floods of light, seeing the sunburst of morning among the icy peaks, the noonday radiance on the trees and rocks and snow, the flush of alpenglow, and a thousand dashing waterfalls with their marvelous abundance of irised spray, it still seems to me above all others the Range of Light". So well said, and so true. Verdant valleys, towering passes, barren moonscapes…dizzying in its contrasts and enormity. I have walked trails all over the planet and there is something unique about the Sierras that make me feel connected to and yet exquisitely dwarfed by the landscape surrounding me.
The John Muir Trail is the best the Sierras have to offer. Shadowing Muir's footsteps, the trail runs 212 breathtaking and treacherous miles, from the depths of Yosemite Valley to the top of 14,505' Mount Whitney (the highest point in the Continental United States). A through-hike voyage of the JMT will change you deep down in your nooks and crannies, as if each pass gained or spring guzzled rounds your edges a bit more. Afterward you might stand taller, be quicker to smile, or worry a little less because you've seen and done things that most people only read about. But you will earn it. Boy howdy will you earn it. Something I learned the hard way. Twice.
I first discovered the joys of the backcountry when I was seven. I spent two weeks with my dad in Cascade Valley (Mammoth, CA) waking up at sunrise, eating freshly caught trout with garlic and wild onions, and telling ghost stories in the dancing shadows of the fire until my eyes grew heavy. After that the wild was in my blood. Countless backpacking trips and hiking adventures later I decided it was time to brave the entire John Muir Trail.
I was in my early 20's and threw myself at the idea with naïve exuberance. I trained for a few weeks by loading up a pack with rocks and walking up and down the American River Trail in Sacramento. I had no clear idea about how long the trip would take or realistically how many miles I could cover in a day, but I brought enough food for roughly two weeks. I decided to hike the alternate route that starts below Mount Whitney and hike the trail south to north - which in hindsight should have been a red flag. I was determined to hike 212 miles but wanted to skip the top of Whitney because it would be too hard? I was excited to challenge myself and enjoyed the attention I got for attempting something bold, but I clearly wasn't invested in doing whatever it would take to be successful. Which is why I failed the first time. And the second time. Well that, and the ridiculous amount of weight I was carrying.
Like the good Eagle Scout that he is, my dad taught me to venture into the backcountry with anything I might possibly need, including the kitchen sink just to be safe. This is inarguably the most luxurious way to backpack - once you are in camp. But moving with that much weight on your back is a grueling death march that compresses your vertebrae and your spirits alike. When I began that first JMT attempt all those years ago, I distinctly remember the first few steps and the crushing realization that I would have to carry that behemoth of a pack for at least two weeks and crest 11 passes. I trudged toward my first pass and when pain and loneliness stealthily crept over me (which was inevitable), I grabbed onto a low-hanging excuse and quit. A year later the wandering spirit struck me again and I returned to the JMT once more. Except this time I was even less prepared, took even more weight, and sulked off the trail in defeat even sooner. Maybe it just wasn't meant to be.
Fast forward a decade to 2013. I was a different man in a completely different place. I'd spent time in the forge of endurance sport, and had transformed by body and brain into tools capable of completing Ironman triathlons… or perhaps even more audacious endeavors. My life was exactly where I wanted it to be, but the John Muir Trail was still whispering softly to me:
"Do you have what it takes?"
I honestly didn't know. I had pushed back the boundaries on my capabilities, and strongly believed in my mental strength and athletic ability. But the John Muir Trail scared me. Which is ultimately why I decided I had to make one last attempt. And I wanted to put an exclamation point on the experience, so I planned to run it.
In looking back on my past attempts, it was clear why I failed and what I would have to do to finally stand on top of Mount Whitney with my hands held high. What I've outlined below is exactly how this moment became a reality, how I conquered the external and internal demons standing in my way - and how you can too.
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An endeavor such as this must be properly planned and prepared for. I know that may grate against your adventurous spirit, but it is the only way to hold success in your grasp. I hate detailed planning more than most, and how I finally got over this was by focusing on and getting excited about the end result, rather than the minutiae in between. I gave myself slightly more than a year to plan and train for this third JMT attempt, and I focused on three key factors:
- Brain Training
- Body Training
- Going Light
ARTICLE OUTLINE
- Introduction
- Brain Training
- Cultivating gratitude
- Visualization
- Positive Self Talk
- Body Training
- Going Light
- Main Gear
- Clothing
- Misc
- Backpack
- Tent
- Sleeping "bag"
- Bear Canister
- Water Purifier
- Footwear
- Other considerations
- Direction
- Timing
- Permit
- Maps
- Trip Length
- Food
- Water
- Resupply
- Strategy
- Author Bio
# WORDS: 4660
# PHOTOS: 20
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Companion forum thread to:
The Range of Light: Fastpacking the John Muir Trail in Under a Week
Great article, with the trial and tribulations faced (self-doubt, hungry bear altering the gear list, etc…).
Thanks for posting. I did the JMT SOBO in September 2012 in almost the same time you took – 6 days 18 hours and 10 minutes, in a similar style and with a similar gearlist, although I did bring a stove, ran very little, and hiked in the dark a bit more (usually only and hour or two at most).
Interesting to read your account and compare it to my experience. It was quite an experience for me and I did train and prepare for it quite a bit, but all on my own. Definitely an amazing trip in an amazing and beautiful place.
"I was shooting for six days based on how many miles per day I thought I could travel without night hiking (I didn’t want to miss the scenery), and I ended up finishing in just under seven. You should have a rough idea of what you’re capable of after a few months of training, but remember – you will move slower at altitude with weight on your back. Set a goal for yourself but have a backup plan for food and extraction should you be out there longer than originally planned. In order to complete the JMT in a week, you will have to average about 30 miles per day."
That's one way of doing it… the compulsive, goal oriented way…
But I preferred to leave that 'city mentality' behind and really get into just being out there…
I had no goal, no idea of what I was capable of and no real plan… Didn't know or care how many miles I would do in a day and had no idea each day were I would camp that night… and didn't want to know… just meld with the wilderness… my priority was to camp before I got too tired to appreciate the experience and find a really beautiful camp each night… take lots of breaks during the day to sit an contemplate the scenery… fish some… bag some peaks along the way… do some writing… but didn't take a camera… not because I wanted to save weight; rather, because I didn't want my face behind a camera… didn't want anything to come between my eyes and the beautiful scenery… and if there was a goal, it was to take as long as possible out there…
Each to his own…
billy
Well hot dang Billy, that verged on the poetic! Really liked what you wrote. It can be worthwhile to challenge yourself and occasionally set goals at times, but too much and too often of that and you can miss the forest for the trees. I usually go to the woods or wild places to get away from that mentality.
+1 to ole Billy Goat Gruff
Thanks Josh.
A nice read of a great adventure.
well, if Billy Ray was truly sincere in his final thought "each to his own …"
he would have simply said nothing,
or perhaps a simple " nice job … "
I'm glad you pushed your limits but I'm sad you fed a bear. Being fast doesn't mean you get to ignore the rules.
"well, if Billy Ray was truly sincere in his final thought "each to his own …"
he would have simply said nothing,
or perhaps a simple " nice job … " "
What a rude thing to write Art… questioning my sincerity…
and trying to tell me what I should say… very presumptuous… and rude…
a good example of how rude and nasty people can be over the internet…
Billy
Art +1
Billy Ray,
What you wrote was evocative, and in another context I'd have loved it.
I think what rankled Art (and me, to some degree) is that any time there's a discussion of anyone pushing their athletic limits, somebody chimes in with "You are enjoying the wilderness incorrectly. Here's how you should do it." Which, albeit in elegant paraphrase, is pretty much what you said. It is ALWAYS finished with a disingenuous "HYOH".
He might have sounded a bit rude to you, but I think I understand where Art was coming from. The style of what your wrote was nice, but in this context also pretty rude to the OP, imo.
all the best
Ralph
Bear bagging in the Sierras — hopefully others can learn from your mistake.
Assuming 'a fed bear is a dead bear' holds, no one gets to ethically save 20oz on their BPW.
"Being fast doesn't mean you get to ignore the rules."
+500
Thanks for taking time to share your experience Josh. I want to take on the JMT next Summer. At 66 I won't be running it but will maybe shoot for two weeks. Having said that most of your tips will aid my trip preparation.
For those who wish otherwise there is an old saying
"Take what you like and leave the rest"
Fantastic photos. Very well written, highly detailed narrative. Thanks for sharing your fantastic trip.
How did you reduce the weight of your OMM Classic Marathon 32l to 14.1 ounces/395 grams?
The OMM web site lists the Classic at a minimum weight of 19.6 ounces/550 grams, with a "normal" weight of 25 ounces/700 grams (I'm guessing the difference is removing the foam back/sleeping pad).
Thanks again,
CorryWan Kenobi
"a good example of how rude and nasty people can be over the internet…"
exactly how you sounded too.
basically telling someone who wrote an article on a style that you didn't agree with they were doing it wrong. some people like to take photos to share and remember the trip.. you don't, deal. some people can and will go fast, deal.
HYOH my ass.. as usual.
perhaps he can do 5 hikes in the same amount of days you do 1.. who is seeing more now?
Thanks Josh. So many journeys tied up into one article, well done.
I didn't find Billy rude, just a different set of goals.
and it's an open forum.
Great Pic's, fun article.
"perhaps he can do 5 hikes in the same amount of days you do 1.. who is seeing more now?"
Debatable. I suspect the faster person is seeing a lot of his feet.
"Debatable. I suspect the faster person is seeing a lot of his feet."
I will debate that with you. I have been happily cruising along only to watch out of shape overweight (pack) hikers staring straight at the ground. 3mph is not fast and staying consistent gets the mileage needed to achieve the pace he was on.
A lot of many trails is dull brown dirt with trees all around.. hiking quickly from one view spot to another sees the same as someone trudging along. perhaps more since I have time to enjoy the view spot and still make my destination by nightfall.
I have no problem doing 2-3mph and look around at all of the scenery I want. And take photos along the way to share. some people are more coordinated than others.
being able to move quickly over trail also helps when setting up a self timer and getting the shot ;)

"have been happily cruising along only to watch out of shape overweight (pack) hikers staring straight at the ground."
Why bring in another variable? Who said anything about out of shape, heavy pack laden hikers?
if you are moving very fast over uneven terrain, you can miss a lot apart from you shoes.
Personally I move pretty fast on the trail so this does come from experience.
Jake, can you tell me how you teleport? Could come in handy with bears….
Trailname is Speedy.. i do what i do ;) powered by peanut M&Ms
"Why bring in another variable? Who said anything about out of shape, heavy pack laden hikers?
if you are moving very fast over uneven terrain, you can miss a lot apart from you shoes.
Personally I move pretty fast on the trail so this does come from experience."
If you are moving fast and looking at your shoes then perhaps after a bit more experience you will start seeing the scenery as you move. Just because you can't do it doesn't mean others have the same limitations.
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