Introduction
The Scottish Highlands are famous for iconic scenery, notorious history, and rich culture. The country also boasts of one-of-a-kind trekking opportunities, including The Great Outdoor Challenge (TGOC). For more than forty years, this annual event has been drawing adventurers from all over the world to design, plan, and complete their personalized Scottish adventure. The TGOC is a unique opportunity to test skills and resilience – while trekking through the Scottish backcountry! You will cross paths with interesting people, pass through quaint villages, and drink, if so inclined, some of the best whisky in the world.
Since 1980, the non-competitive TGOC has celebrated the spirit of exploration and self-reliance with chances to socialize or self-introspect. Participants, together or solo, plan their cross-country routes from the West to the East Coast crossing whatever part of the country is appealing. The trek must be completed within two weeks. I chose to depart from Oban (west coast) and end at the coastal resort and former royal burgh of Montrose (east coast). This 200-mile (315 km) on and off-trail journey, went through glens (valleys), across (streams), overpasses, and up Monros (summits), through storybook towns and wet and muddy moors.
Planning and Preparation
After registering, I read the useful resource materials provided by the fantastic TGOC staff that described the rules with route planning tips and then I started planning. It took me months to choose my exact track. After many back-and-forth and detailed tweaks, I settled on a route with a mix of wilderness, villages, and cultural sights. Balancing priorities, I considered trails, off-trail access, elevation changes, terrain, weather, and camping spots. Ultimately, I’d see a large chunk of Scotland while having a great adventure. Little did I know what was to come!
Gear Notes
Having the right kit is critical to a safe and enjoyable wilderness experience, especially when trekking through a new area infamous for its ornery weather and difficult terrain. To dial in my gear, I assessed the weather conditions, terrain details, and previous challengers’ gear.
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Companion forum thread to: Malaria in the Mountains – A 200-mile Scottish Coast-to-Coast Misadventure
Jeff de Graffenried recounts a TGO challenge misadventure where he was beset by Malaria on trail.
That sounds both beautiful (the walking) and tortuous (malaria).
You have made me want to do the TGO – after all, I have an ancestor named Duncan Archibald Campbell McTaggert and I have never been to Scotland. Surely Tasmanian conditions are good practice for Scotland.
On another note, my Dad – Physician in Medical Research- travelled to Scotland to be bitten and infected by malaria-carrying mosquitoes which were kept there for research…. he thought it was pretty funny.
Just got back from a delightful 3 weeks in Scotland, which included hiking the West Highland and Great Glen Ways (basically Glasgow to Inverness, about 170 miles). I hit the same fine May weather that you did, only donning my poncho once.
I concur that Scotland is an outstanding hiking destination. There is an extensive network of trails (see WalkHighlands.com), the Right to Roam, and excellent public transportation to get you to and from trailheads. The Scottish people (although not as gregarious and prone to storytelling as the Irish) are unfailingly cheerful and helpful.
The only negative was the crowds on the WHW. Accommodations were mostly booked up, even lawn camping at hostels. And Kula cloths are apparently not a thing in Scotland – there were wads of TP about every 50 yards along the Way. But I think the WHW is unique in its crowding. I saw only 3 other thru-hikers on the GGW (and almost no TP).
Sorry about the malaria, but thank you for the story and the pix.
I sympathise Jeff, I really do.
I had to retire from my third TGO Challenge at Dalwhinnie this year; a cracked and infected thumb left me needing antibiotics. I had been feeling unusually tired, drinking more than expected (even in the sunny conditions) a bit nauseous and barely eating even before the infection became obvious.
The medical advice was that if the infection and discolouration advanced any further (I had to draw a line around it to monitor the progression of the suspected septicemia) then I had to head to A&E (ER) immediately.
As I was about to head into the Cairngorms for 3 days I took the decision to pick up the antibiotics and go home.
I already have my 2026 route drafted :)
Chris.
Hi Drew, thanks for the note and for reading the article. Glad you enjoyed it. It is a great area to visit and hike, for sure. I hope to have a chance to retry TGOC. It was great fun and even more so if I didn’t bring unwanted guests along. Cheers! Jeff
Hi Chris, thanks for the note and empathy. Sorry to hear about your thumb. That is a real bummer and certainly worrisome. I am sure that was a tough decision, but the right one. You don’t know what is likely to get in the way of completing the trek. I am hopeful to get back out there, maybe ’26. I want to do the CDT next year, and so the TGOC timing might not be right. We will see. Ever hopeful. Cheers, Jeff
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