Would seem ripping down jacket baffles make it warmer

NM

Brian,

You got my attention. I have a similar question that will probably get as much response as your question.

my title will be:

Good/bad effects of turning 4″wide into 8″wide down tubes on a sewn thru quilt?

I will favorite your topic here and let you know if my new topic gets any useful results.

Regards

Paul

I doubt the manufacturer put more down than was needed/ideal in each tube, so I fear if you eliminate every other seam and go from a diamond cross section with total perimeter X centimeters to half as many tubes with permitter 2X each, those larger tubes will be “under-stuffed” (the reverse of over-stuffed).  Because those larger tubes will each have 4 times the volume but only twice the down.  Down will probably settle to the bottom of each tube and to the low points and leave upper portions of the tube with little to no down.

If you could, at the same time, introduce more down into each tube, then I think you could end up with a significantly warmer (and slightly heavier) jacket.  But that’s a lot trickier to do.

I think it would work well except over time, down will find it’s way out through the needle holes, not much, but annoying amounts. I think 2″ baffles are just “fashion” design.

don’t do it – what David said

Plus, when you rip out seams it damages the fabric a bit.  And it takes a long time to do it carefully to minimize damage.  If you’re sewing and make a mistake and have to rip out a short section of one seam, it’s not too bad, but you’re doing a bunch of seams.  That lightweight fabric in a down jacket is really easy to damage.

if you can put more down in it would help.  Weigh it to make sure you put the same amount in each baffle.

The baffle width is 2 inches, what’s the loft?  I think you want the baffle width to be about twice the loft, so 2 inch baffles are good for 1 inch loft.  If the baffle width is larger than twice the loft, it’s hard to get the baffles filled, and not have the down shift to the bottom.

“You got my attention. I have a similar question that will probably get as much response as your question.’

I posted my opinion (let’s call it an educated guess…) and why,  soon after the OP was posted.

Several days  later there was no response to it , possibly because it wasn’t the response he wanted *, so I deleted my comments because it happened to be the third such thread (people ask a question but don’t bother to acknowledge the replies) within a day or two .

*mine was along the points Dan, David and Jerry spelled out.

Response was much appreciated and I abandoned the idea. Just didnt want to ruin a functional jacket. If I had a beater jacket I’d probably do so mods and see how it goes. I do tend to tinker with things.

I seriously doubt you would loose much loft by removing a seam.

/Dan,

I do certainty like the look of those collars.The top one would be be easier to make than trying to build a draft collar into the quilt I am making out of a  cheap China envelope  800 down. sleeping bad. Possibly I should make the collar using APEX To deal with any sweating. Do you have any  ideas about a stand alone 3.6 oz APEX (.9″ loft) about  2″ -2.5″tall?  The bag top neck draw string might slip off this collar but that can be fixed by adding 2. 5 oz APEX strips on the top and bottom sides of the collar, so the drawstring would be held between the two 2.5 APEX “stoppers”..

Do you have any  ideas about a stand alone 3.6 oz APEX collar about  2″ tall?

I have been using one of  you Starlyte XL3 every morning. to make my coffee. Its great.  I am using the

Bulin heat exchange pot but have not had time to cut it down like you did,

Regards,Paul

SORRY FOR THE HIJACK

paul

Do you have any  ideas about a stand alone 3.6 oz APEX (.9″ loft) about  2″ -2.5″tall?  The bag top neck draw string might slip off this collar but that can be fixed by adding 2. 5 oz APEX strips on the top and bottom sides of the collar, so the drawstring would be held between the two 2.5 APEX “stoppers”..

Your idea of the 2. 5 oz APEX strips on the top and bottom sides of the collar, so the drawstring would be held between the two 2.5 APEX “stoppers sounds like it should work the best.

I’m using the Bulin heat exchange pot but have not had time to cut it down like you did,

I’m doing an “inventory reduction” of various items….you can have my cut down version of the Bulin :-) It was a good good experimental project. I’ll put it in the mail within a few days.