Even after living in Fairbanks Alaska for 30 years, I’m unused to 28 days in a row of below minus 20F. I go out every day, even lately when it’s been minus 40F at my house. The last week has been minus 35-45, with minus 50 in town. Today I drove up to a ridge where it was only minus 26F to do my daily hike.
It’s still a challenge, after many years of experience, to dress for the entire excursion in a way that allows for active movement but stay warm at the same time. I can literally be sweating and feel my core quite chilled when I stop for 10 seconds. I often bring a large day pack with more layers, in case I get too damp, or end up getting injured and unable to get myself back to the trailhead. Today I had company, so I had no extras.
Today I wore:
- Salomon Toundra boots [I’m never sure how to pronounce that – is it a misspelling of tundra?]
- Darn Tough wool boot socks
- fleece pants
- insulated bib overalls
- medium weight Icebreaker wool long sleeve shirt
- North Face quarter zip fleece
- Patagonia Houdini
- cheap Lands End down parka (mid thigh length)
- Turtle fur neck gaiter
- thick fleece-lined wool cap
- Gordini down gloves.
My hands and feet stayed warm throughout, even removing my gloves to replace my dog’s booties a couple of times. I carry chemical hand warmers just in case, always. Have used them many times, sometimes for others. I had both my Houdini and parka hoods up over my cap. Sometimes I use a different coat that has a fur ruff; that’s vital in windy conditions which we didn’t encounter today in the woods.
That’s more or less my getup until it rises to about minus 15, when I switch caps, neck gaiter, and sometimes boots for lighter weight gear. “Be bold start cold” is a given at minus 26; removing anything and I’d be shivering in a minute or two. Standing still in all that gear I was cold. We started our walk on a trail through snowy woods, downhill for at least a mile, maybe 1.5 miles. I was sweating a little, but it was too cold to remove anything.
Then we walked level for 1/4 mile, then started up the ridge a different direction. Steady uphill the whole way, steep at the end, about another mile. I warmed up quickly on this leg, and thought about removing a layer, but if I did it wouldn’t be the parka, so I’d have to undress on trail and carry something to put back on later, which would be cold after 20 minutes in a pack. By the time we got to the top of the ridge I was pretty sweaty. All the outside moisture freezes instantly, so I could just shake my hat and neck gaiter to remove the frost. But the down parka kept me warm, despite the damp. The damp was contained in my first wool layer, not even reaching the fleece. If I had taken off the parka I’d have been way too cold. Maybe if I had instead two more lighter layers, I could have removed one going uphill, and put it on to go downhill. But again, how to keep the layer warm when it’s not on my body?
And ultimately when you are living, working and playing at these temperatures for an entire month or more, you kind of get tired of ever being cold at all. I want all my layers on! Even with a little perspiration. My son pointed out when it was minus 30 recently that there was a 100 degree difference between outside and inside with the woodstove going. This weather has me reciting The Cremation of Sam McGee!
The last section of trail was another mile, gradual uphill. The temperature had dropped a few degrees since we started, with the last rays of setting sun (which add little warmth anyway!). I stayed warm in the parka though.
Backpacking will have to wait another 25-30 degrees greater warmth. I don’t need to be that tough.





