Wanting to add storm doors to a pocket tarp

If your skills are basic, you’ll want to avoid the complexities of sewing and simply tape the seams. They won’t be under much stress so this should be strong enough. Here’s a tutorial from Dyneema themselves:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_0f8DM9Ab4

You can get the bonding tape from Ripstop By The Roll.

Because Dyneema is so expensive you’ll want to get things right first time. You can work out the shape of the doors using paper models. Then make a full-sized prototype with inexpensive plastic and try it out on your Pocket Tarp using something reversible like duck tape for the assembly. Then use your prototype as a pattern for your final version.

Perhaps a triangular door clipped just inside the entrance could work? See this thread.

What about using a rain kilt as a door?

Thanks for the info.  I like the idea of using a rain kilt.  I am going to experiment with that first.  I really appreciate the input from you both.

“Then make a full-sized prototype with inexpensive plastic and try it out on your Pocket Tarp using something reversible like duck tape for the assembly.”

Duct tape on cuben is not reversible, IME.

My hexamid beak has the following dimensions for each half:

47″ (side sewed to tent) x 21″ (side that extends down the front guy line) x 50″ (open edge).

My high school geometry suggests that the angle between the 47″ side and the 21″ side is 85.6 degrees.  The other half mirrors the first.  The two halves are sewn together along the 21″ side.

Measurements are as exact as possible, but the tarp is several thousand miles old and is very wrinkled.  I suspect measurements on fresh material would be a little larger.

Jonathan,

I think I know how you feel. I am about to turn 70 and I am planning on taking a sewing class so I can attempt to MYOG. I applaud your gumption.

Check out how Ray Jardin’s “BatWing”  kind of addresses your needs, it seems like a fairly quick and dirty, proof of concept approach. You possibly could cut the piece out of a  polycyro window kit, under $10 (  https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Indoor-84-Inch-120-Inch-282450/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=JMYPO4D40XW1&keywords=window+kit&qid=1565482934&s=hi&sprefix=window+kit%2Ctools%2C162&sr=1-2 )

and use office binder clips to test attach it it before deciding on a better long term attachment solution.

http://www.rayjardine.com/ray-way/Tarp-Kit/BatWing/index.htm

Good luck.

Thanks Paul!  I appreciate the help.

If you intend to tie the beak off to the front/center stake, it will ideally be under some tension (and adverse weather conditions).  I would suggest sewing and taping as your original post envisions.  But you’ve already dissected that process.  So, give it a shot!  Straight stitch, straight lines, small needle, no problem.  Just sew very slow.  Too many people think you have to floor the gas pedal.  I suspect you will find the project very rewarding in the end.

Zpacks sells a version with doors now if you prefer to sell your current tarp and buy a new one vs. MYOG.

I used a piece of DCF on my pocket tarp in a triangle configuration. It clips into the front stakes then shock cord to the trekking pole just short of the ridge to allow air movement. It works well for storm splash protection and traps heat for winter use.

Here is a blast from the past Henry S’s beak design. Enjoy.

http://thru-hiker.com/projects/tarptent.php

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Tom,

I just got a pocket tarp and am looking to do the same as the OP.

Your solution sounds ideal since you can remove the flaps when you don’t need them.

Could you post a few pics and maybe dimensions?

Thanks much

Warbonnet Hammocks sell add on doors for their hammock tarps. Maybe they would work for you? I bought some to add to an old Golite shelter but haven’t had the chance to field test them yet.

Maybe polycryo can be a more “permanent” solution, meaning maybe it would be possible to just attach polycryo or tyvek on an as-needed basis? How often are doors really needed? Is a pocket tarp really all that exposed?