Using Tenacious Tape as draft tube zipper guard?

I don’t have an answer to your question. But my recommendation would be to stay clear of the transparent tape. In patching my son’s puffies, the black tape lasted a couple of years through multiple washings for the first jacket. However, for the second jacket I wanted to try clear tape thinking it would be less visible. The transparent type cracked and peeled off after a couple of months. I remember taking it off before season’s end and applying black.

It’s been about three years, so it’s possible they have improved the formula…

Thanks for the rocket response.

WOW!

real tenacious tape did that?

How do you think it would have held up if it had never been washed?

And the black held up better than the clear?

Maybe dyneema tape? I’ve always held my hand in such a way while zipping and unzipping that keeps my zippers from beginning the snag

Same experience with the clear Tenacious Tape on a puffie – it’s gone brittle and cracked within months – a pretty major fail for such an expensive product. Interesting to see that the black tape seems to last better.

I haven’t had any problems with the clear tenacious tape.  I have a small patch on an ember hole on my quilt which has been there for at least two years and no signs of failure.

I walk every day so my jacket lives in the boot of my car, which can get pretty hot. Maybe that was the problem…

Yes, as I said, huge difference for me between clear and black. Bought together about 7 years ago to patch stuff. In the case of the puffies, my son used these two jackets between age 4 and 9. Like I said, clear lasted months before down leaked again. It cracked and eventually developed holes. Black lasted a couple of years in each jacket without visible wear. These were my son’s jackets used daily during the colder New England months, plus outdoor activity year round. Since kids get dirty, washed often for a puffy.

Mark’s comment makes me wonder if they changed the formula or perhaps mine cracked due to usage differences. UV exposure, more washing, more and unstuffing…

I’ll second the experience w/ CLEAR tenacious tape.

patched a 1.5-2” long slit in a puffy vest I wore around town regularly. The Ttape ripped along the slit, and some of the edges cracked, within a short time, maybe 2-3 months st most. Eventually it started cracking over the whole patch. The portions actually attached to material are stuck very well though, it just didn’t have the strength across the slit.

heres a pic of it currently. This patch is probably 4 yr old st this point.

Yep, definitely seems to be an issue with the clear tape. I’ve got a pair of running shorts that I repaired with blue version 4 years ago. They get washed about twice a month and I’ve had no issues with the blue.

I repaired another pair of shorts with the clear tape and the tape failed within a few months of  similar use. I replaced it with the blue (same as the black from what I can tell) and have had no further issues. I gave away the roll of clear tape.

The clear seems to be a different type of backing material compared to the colored options. More of a plastic sheet than a fabric if I remember correctly.

Boy am I glad that I asked. Thanks everyone for preventing me from making a big mistake.

Eagle Scout, Staff Sgt in military and I sleep out sometimes 100 nights per year so I generally know enough to be very cautious when using any outdoor zipper……………Except when I have had a sleeping pill and wake up with an emergency need to make a pit stop. Now and then I do some really crazy things when taking Ambien that at the time feels like I am just dreaming something .

I have had dark Ttape on outdoor products for many years and never noticed a problem.

Anyone have any experience indicating that using Dyneema tape as my draft tube Zipper guard would be problematic?

As @treefarmer mentioned, the clear tape “backer” is def just plastic sheet. There is no “fabric” in it, which is probably the main reason for the mentioned issues. I’d think using any of the colored tapes, that clearly have a fabric/woven backer, would yield better results.

as for DCF tape, I would expect that to work well. However it’s pretty expensive and while it’s def very sticky, I don’t know for sure that it would stick to whatever fabric your sleeping bag is made of. (I believe it does NOT stick well to silnylon.) Or at least, I don’t know it would stick any better than the colored tenacious tape.

A cheaper, more readily available (at any Home Depot) option would be Gorilla Tape.  I’ve had good luck with it staying on for a long time.  It definitely has enough stiffness to not get caught in a zipper.  I haven’t tried running it through the laundry, but it’s certainly much better than duct tape without being crazy expensive.  I’ve pretty much stopped buying the grey “duct tape” and keep Gorilla Tape around instead.

As for being stupid on Ambien – I’ve had that happen when I used it on a flight to to reset my sleep schedule.  It’s also then harder to get to sleep the next night without using it.  Both of those problems are mostly avoided with 1/2 a dose.  If I’m still awake 20 minutes later, I can always take the other half.

Rudy,

I am glad you brought the silnylon issue up as I was going to order some DCF tape this evening.

David: Gorilla tape.

Somewhere in my many planned but not implement fun project boxes I have a roll or two of clear gorilla tape that I was planning on using on a Polycro A frame tent project. I wonder if the clear G-tape has the same lack of fabric.

I though about  using Gorilla black tape (having forgotten that they even had clear G-tape) but I was hoping that I only needed tape that was 1/2-5/8″ wide to solve the snagging problem and I have never been able to cut duct tape down in width w/o leaving a very non-professional look.

Taking half of the Ambien with the other half in 20 minute stand-by is a good idea. I will try it tonight.

I am beginning to realize that if the zipper snagging solution was this simple that the manufacturers might just routinely apply some sort of glued on material. Maybe any long lasting approach requires sewing rather than glue.

I have a 9 year old Big Agnes 30F bag that is a well used friend that seldom snags, I see there is stouter material sewed into the tape of the zipper and of course into the draft tube. I know nothing about material other than what RSBTR has taught me to buy the material to make my 2.5 oz APEX Super Woobie (Army poncho liner) that is still sitting in a “to-be-done” box.

Anyone familiar with the name of the material that manufacturers actually use as zipper guard.?

Possibly, I can buy some of that material, hot knife cut it down to the appropriate width and then just sew it to the outer edge of the zipper tape???  Thoughts anyone?

Cutting tape… Have you ever tried something along these lines? https://youtu.be/tdOdwbGWunY

Yeah, I was thinking of the black Gorilla Tape.  Their clear tape is pretty good clear tape (overkill for sealing packages, but nice for repairing taillights, taping the plastic car bumper back on, etc) but I wouldn’t use it for the zipper backing.

Only 3/4″ wide or less?  How about Luekotape?  The stuff stays on my feet for 1-2 weeks.  Some stiffness but not too much.  Pretty light weight.  In a pinch take it off your sleeping bag if you need first aid / blister / repair tape.

All DCF repair tape patches. All holding well on various nylon type surfaces. I find this tape to be my go to on virtually all my patching needs. It molds into shape and sticks. Just works.

Dutchware Argon67

Big Agnes FlyCreek HVUL1 (2014 model)

Arcteryx Zeta SL rain pant (butt patch)

Big Agnes Copper Spur HVUL1 (2019 model) unfortunate fire spark

Good looking repairs! Interesting though, I just checked Zpacks website and they do specifically say “It will not stick to silicone fabrics”. I wouldn’t expect the ArcTeryx, Argon67 or bug net to be silicone… not sure on the BA tent. I would def expect DCF tape to be stiff enough (and nice and slippery) to not catch the zipper… just not positive it will stick to his specific fabric.

@ssghawk – I’ve got some pieces of DCF tape. If you want just a little tester, I’ll send you a bit. Just PM me your info. Or I’d be happy to part w/ enough for your project for roughly what Zpacks would cost, minus their $5 min shipping (since I could mail a bunch for the cost of a single stamp). LMK

Way to go, iago!  I have tried something like that in the past but the video you sent me to pointed out the need to use a clamp which never occurred to me. That solves the non-profdessional cut problem. THANKS

David, I think I need to add some Luekotape to my IFAC.

Simulacra, Those picures sealed the deal. I have got to try the DCF tape. One question, if I slip up and stick it on crooked or over bunched up material, can I get it off-quickly- and then do the job correctly?

Rudy,  I will most gratefully take you up on your offer. PM incoming!

GEES GUYS, almost 70 years old and I cannot count the times that I terribly jamed up a zipper and I think you guys just solved it.

WELL DONE GUYS

@ Ryan “Rudy” Oury     Thank you. Fair point, but I don’t think the OP is using sil, unless I’m mistaken. Not quite sure if the BA tent floor is sil or PU coated. I’ll have to pull out my silpoly tarp and test this one out. Thanks.

@ Paul French       When doing longer lengths I’ve found it easier to only un-peel about an inch or two at a time to keep the mishaps at a minimum. Depending on the fabric type will determine how easy you can un-peel and re-stick to the fabric. Easier said than done, but try not to have to do that. The lighter fabric is the toughest. What you really want to look out for though is folding it in on itself. Even just a little bit is sometimes a disaster. The tape will not come off itself easy, adhesive to adhesive side. Just take it slow on a stable flat surface and un-peel only what is neccessary at each step. If the inevitable happens and you have to cut the tape midway, you’ll be fine. Just overlap where you ended and begin again. Cutting the edges round helps to keep it from catching on the corners. Cut the corners with the backing still on, it’s easier. Use sharp scissors. Once you have it all in place I’ve found activating the adhesive by rubbing it down firm works very well by creating some heat. Even though DCF tape is tricky it’s also very forgivable.

Simulacra,

Good advice, thanks. I think I am going to need to properly lay out and clamp down the target material.

Regards,

Paul