UL Drybag

ZPacks DCF dry bags. Made with 1.0 oz Dyneema so just a tad lighter than 15D silnylon (1.05 oz). Also more waterproof than 15D silnylon and stronger.

https://zpacks.com/collections/dry-bags

Not sure if this is your question, but I have used the S2S Ultra-sil bags for several years now with pretty good results. No punctures, actually. I did have one failure where I ripped the top off as I was stuffing my quilt inside. Now I’m careful to be more gentle.

Do you know how long these DCF bags last?

The 1.0 DCF is durable and long lasting for dry bags, but I don’t like .51 DCF for stuff sacks. I mostly use 7D silnylon DIY for that. 0.8 DCF works for stuff sacks, however the extra expense isn’t worth it IMO. Dry bags are a different story though. Waterproofness is paramount and of course low weight is too. That’s where I think 1.0 DCF is best. Very strong.

The S2S ultra-sil Dan refers to is 30D Cordura. Very high quality material and weighs about 1.35 oz per sq yd. Still won’t match the waterproofness of DCF though, yet for most applications it would probably be just fine.

1) “waterproof” bags that have a Velcro closure (like zPacks) are NOT water proof. Velcro leaks; the closure needs to be something that can seal against itself, like rubber.

2) DCF is vulnerable to puncture and can develop leaks pretty easily if you don’t handle it right. For instance, pushing sleeping bag with force into the DCF bag when the DCF bag is on granite or other materials with sharp crystals… or even decomposed granite… can make mink/micro punctures. After using in that way try filling your DCF bag with water and observe the small spray of water exiting the bag. This can happen with sil-nylon also, but just a big harder since it does not puncture as easily.

Yea but if the DCF “dry” bag is folded over a few times and the buckles are snapped together the bag is going to have to be fully submerged for quite awhile for any water to get in.  A highly unlikely scenario. It’s the DCF material I’m referring to as “waterproof”. I’m looking more at water getting into the bottom of my pack in a deluge rainfall event (with the dry bag sitting upright in pack).  ZPacks and other manufacturers use 1.0 DCF for their tent floors and I’m sure they can get punctures with all the weight of a human or two on them, but for stuffing a sleeping bag into a dry bag? I suppose it’s conceivable if you’re doing it for years over abrasive surfaces.

“ZPacks and other manufacturers use 1.0 DCF for their tent floors and I’m sure they can get punctures with all the weight of a human or two on them, but for stuffing a sleeping bag into a dry bag? I suppose it’s conceivable if you’re doing it for years over abrasive surfaces.’

I got a puncture first time out… those crystals embedded in granite are sharp.

“ea but if the DCF “dry” bag is folded over a few times and the buckles are snapped together the bag is going to have to be fully submerged for quite awhile for any water to get in. A highly unlikely scenario.”

Not so unlikely… all it takes is one slip in a river crossing…

Have you ever slept in a sopping wet sleeping bag on night below freezing???

I have, and it’s no fun. I double bag my sleeping bag with real dry-bags (not Velcro closures) which are waterproof… it’s an easy enough thing to do as habit.

… just sayin’

I use Sea To Summit Ultra-Sil Drybags… 30D no complaints. I use mine for food storage, and they get hung nightly here in Griz country:

https://seatosummit.com/products/ultra-sil-dry-sack

If you want lighter, 15D – but I do think it’s a fools errand to go lighter than 30D for a food bag to be hung:

https://seatosummit.com/products/ultra-sil-nano-dry-sack

Agree with @bradmacmt.  In my experience, the STS Ultra-Sil Nano bags I have are highly water resistant at best.  I have experienced water ingress with a Nano that was itself in a sil daypack.

If you want waterPROOF you have to go with something like the STS Ultra-Sil bags (30D) and accept the 0.3 oz penalty (8L).  I only trust the 15D Nano with things that will be buried in, and further protected by, a very highly water resistant backpack.

Ok, so nobody would recommend using 10D dry bags

I just double-checked, and the S2S bags I’ve been using are 15D. They are called “Nano Dry-Sacks”. They are the dry-bag style where you roll the top down a few turns and snap the buckle. I agree that it would be risky to use these to hang food, it wouldn’t take much to puncture them. I use them as a stuff sack for down items inside my pack, and as I mentioned above, I try to be gentle with them.

I have often used the S2S 30D cordura stuff sacks to hang food, and I find them to be high quality and sturdy. Since I pack my food and trash in zip-locks, I just use a regular stuff sack to contain them. I find it to be more convenient, and no problems so far.

Ok, so nobody would recommend using 10D dry bags

Not as a food bag to be hung in a tree, no.  I might trust them as a dry bag buried in your pack.

If you talk to a manufacturer of real submersible bags (so rated submersible) they will tell you that NO top bag will meet the requirements. A good rolltop can be very good and good enough for temporary submersion but it really depends what you need it to actually survive. I ended up buying a small submersible dry bag for my pricey camera that was reasonably light (it uses a real waterproof zipper – not the kind you see on a rain jacket).

Funnily enough the manufacturer recommended that unless I was going with a rated submersible bag with a waterproof zipper that the next best thing was just a plastic bag tied tightly at the top. The trashbag method really is quite good.