Trip planning for Grand Canyon

Pretty sure that Mather campground has bear boxes at each campsite.

I’ll be backpacking in GCNP next month (easy time to get permits and more light and warmer than Alaska in January.  I’ve gone about once a year for the last 40 years.  May has, on average, pleasant temps, but I’ve seen 88F at Indian Gardens (now Havasupai Gardens) on the way up, having stayed ahead of the heat in the inner canyon with an early start.  May is certainly perferable to June, July or August.

Yes, popcorn tins are the way to go on the rim or while distributed camping in the canyon.  I’d keep it in my tent so critters aren’t playing with it outside all night.  Or leave it outside with a large rock on top to weigh it down.  Salvation Army has the Christmas-themed ones out on display this month for $0.75.  I just got two, nesting large-coffee-can-sized ones for easier packing (and there’ll be two of us) rather than the huge ones I’ve used in the past for the entire party.

I’d agree that DEET isn’t needed.  Sun gloves are a good idea for a pasty Alaskan. Bring (and use!) somewhat more sunscreen than usual since the Rim is 7,000 feet.

Mather Campground has pay showers and laundry.  Bring a small quantity of modern high-efficiency laundry detergent – it’s MUCH better at cleaning clothes than Campsuds.  Roger and I agree that as long as you dump your laundry wash water far from surface water, you’re not hurting anything by letting it degrade in the soil, just like it does in every septic leach field.

While hiking up out of the Canyon, especially on the Bright Angel Trail that has so many water sources, I bring at least a cotton bandana and sometimes a doubled strip of microfiber towel to dip in every stream and cool my neck.

Add an extra Smart Water bottle cap.  Bring the rain jacket and pants but stow them if the weather forecast is clear.

There’s not much cell reception below the Rim so I switch my phone to airplane mode and therefore use very little battery (perhaps skip the extra battery).  On the trails and in a group, I’d skip the InReach and the extra battery.

The grocery/beer/wine/clothing/gear store in the Market Plaza on the South Rim is very well stocked – produce, deli sandwiches, butane canisters, four kinds of microspikes/4-points, etc (although it’s never wrong to grab the butane in Vegas or Phoenix at REI / Walmart / Sportman’s to be sure).

For lodging on the Rim, Xantera’s El Tovar Hotel is a decent value.  Outside the park, 6 miles south in Tusayan, I like Red Feather Lodge.  Arriving 1-2 days prior to any vigorous hiking (especially any uphill bits), helps acclimitize a bit to the elevation.  There are shuttle buses from Tusayan to inside the park and of course, throughout the South Rim and to the major trailheads.

The Grand Canyon is a HUGE place… and critter issues vary from place to place. You did not state (or I missed) your itinerary…

And what dates in May? Early May  can be a lot cooler than late May

Separate post for conditioning.  The best thing I’ve found to do in advance is stairs.  Not a stair climber that only goes up, but just a flight of stairs in your house, which I go up and down for 10 minutes each morning before my shower.  It’s the downhill that leaves you sore, so you need to condition those muscles that lower you down each step.  Do a few weeks in your skivvies and then add a rucksack or one than two gallon jugs of water for the last few weeks prior to the hike.  If you can get to a multistory hotel or university building with multiple flights of stairs, maybe that’s a little better.  Actual mountain trails are great, too, of course, but day-to-day errands and dog walking in Fairbanks, like Kenai, are pretty flat.

I have used the OutSak with success in the GC… it is a stainless steel wire mesh bag that weighs about the same as the Ursack of about the same size.

https://www.simpleoutdoorstore.com/index.html

Friends have used the Ursack. I found the cookie tins to be a bit small, but some say they work…

Yes, if you are not used to hiking down several thousand feet with a backpack, you legs will get hammered. I train on hills ahead of time with a pack. Two other things can help: poles if you use them to ease your weight down the large steps, and shoes with a lot of cush… hard sole boots will be a killer to your legs. I wear very cushy trail runners.

The flat cookie tins don’t have great weight to volume as the ones as tall as they are wide.  The sacks are lighter.  The office-sized popcorn tins (Tis the season!), have more volume than any bear canister.  Ravens, mice squirrels and bighorns are everywhere.  Deer I see more on the Rim.  No chance of bears (black, brown or polar) as we Alaskans usually deal with, hence the option of going with something lighter and cheaper (just leave it with another hiker when you leave – it was only $1).

Agreed, early May is a lot cooler than late May.  When I’ve taken the kids from Alaska in May, I try to leave right after school is out to minimize the heat.  And wish I could leave 2 weeks earlier.

I have not had problems getting backpack permits in mid April… which to me seems the best time to backpack the GC… not too hot yet.. and sometimes you even get a refreshing sprinkle… days are getting longer than winter, and flowers are out in force…

I find the two main trails (Kaibab and Bright Angel) bother my calves on the way down no matter how I train.  The grade never changes and my ankles are in a steady state of extension. The other trails are not a problem because the terrain varies. Anyone have an idea of how to train other than to walk around in high healed shoes?

“Anyone have an idea of how to train other than to walk around in high heeled shoes?”

Nope.  We want photos, though…

I did the AZT for 160 miles starting Apr 1st, 2022….but had to get off due to emergency at home. The AZT goes through rim to rim of Grand Canyon – which I didn’t do as I got off.

I think they say you should get done with the rim2rim before May 15th typically. And even early May, the temperature at the bottom of the canyon can be close to 100’s.

What I also noticed was that even in early April, it was hot as I set up camp close to sunset. I couldn’t get into the quilt. As temperature dropped in the night, I would get into it. It was actually nice to have a tent with a mesh like your tent or duplex or plex solo as you can sleep without the quilt without being bugged by insects or mice etc. I had a tarp and typically use the quilt as a form of protection against crawlies along with beanie/neck gaiter etc. But, since it was hot and didn’t put those on, I was feeling exposed.

I slept with my food under my legs – 3 layers of Opsak inside Zpacks food bag and then nyloflume and then inside backpack. Some of the folks I hiked with didn’t use Opsak etc – just a simple nylon food bag. I think everybody on the AZT slept with their food inside their tents.

I had a 20 degree quilt – but sleep warm. I probably could have gone to 30 or even 40 in May.

I tried using an umbrella – but it was pretty windy as Arizona is wide open. So stopped using it after a few days. Not many trees for shade. I remember that for even snack breaks I took it while standing as there was no place to sit under a tree like in the Sierras. Though in the GC, there may be rocks to sit on.

Since it is a guided trip – not sure if you have an option as to when you can start. Starting as early as possible is of course recommended. Even at 8AM, you can feel the heat. Though some said, that the second half of AZT (which includes GC) is cooler than the bottom half from Mexico border….till you get to the canyon bottom. I used a Sunday Afternoon hat which provided good shade. Gloves which cover your fingers will also help as will pants/full sleeve shirts – but did see lots of folks in shorts.

Yes, it’s a guided trip, so May is when it is. We’re doing South Kaibab to North rim, but spending a few nights in the canyon in various places. So not too many miles each day.  I imagine they will have us start very early. I usually like taking my time in the morning, but a sunrise start sounds great in this case. Sleep after lunch.

Thanks for the conditioning advice. I have 6 floors in my building and three staircases, so I can switch it out when it gets boring (like, immediately). I’ll need to put together a really captivating sound track to keep my mind off the fact that I’m doing stairs.

According to the NPS the Mather Campground does NOT have food storage lockers; it’s clearly stated. The campgrounds the group will be using inside the canyon all have metal food storage. So I think the popcorn tin makes sense; i can use it at the beginning of my trip, and dump it before we start the hike. I will have very little to no food left at the end for my last night of camping anyway.

Microspikes in May? Going to the North Rim?

May… BUT WHAT PART OF MAY???…. Late May is like June… could be 110F down at bottom… Early May can be like April… much much cooler…. But I would guess if it’s guided and trip is ending at N Rim. then it may be after May 15 when the N Rim typically opens ???  Best ask your guide about micro spikes… but I would guess not… N Rim is south facing… it’s the north facing slopes that hold snow, ice longer

Food storage: I use a Rat Sack, which you can rent from the outfitter store located inside the grocery store near Yavapai lodge. Or use a cookie tin- the squirrels and ravens are relentless. I would also have a hat with wide brim and a long sleeve shirt for sun protection. I’ve hiked the cannon in mid to late April and had 28-34° on the rim and upper 70s to 90 at the bottom. Snow/rain/sleet/grauple on the rim and sunshine in the inner gorge. Check with the rangers at the Backcountry Office the day before you leave for current conditions. I’ve made 5 trips to the canyon so far – it’s addicting.

In May, be prepared for snow AND 110F temps.  I’ve had both, but generally it is quite pleasant.  If you can leave a duffel with the guide service then you can prep for all conditions and carry only what is required once you arrive.

If you are going down the South Kaibab and up the North Kaibab you likely are South Rim to the River and then to Cottonwood, and then out.  If the 3rd weekend of May, providing a pipe didn’t burst, you’ll have water from Cottonwood up to the North Rim.

Regarding gear, unless expecting rain/snow, I just cowboy camp.  Check with the park service, the corridor campgrounds may have ammo boxes at the camping areas negating the need any food protection.  If not, a bear cannister, a stainless mesh ratsack, or an ursack will all work.  You want to protect your food and smellables from mice and ravens.  The mice will eat right through your pack so leave all pockets open (still no guarantee) and no smellables.  The ravens can figure out anything except a bear can, but unless you plan to dayhike away from your food storage they won’t be a problem.

Please post your route and camp zone detail for each night.  This will help me and others provide more specific advice.

As for training you’ll descend about 5000′ on your first day.  Weighted step downs, and walking down stairs both help.  If possible get to your closest tall building or parking garage and walk up and down the fire stairs for an hour as many times per week as you can manage.  And hiking poles do help

And if you have it, a rigged hands-free trekking umbrella is far superior to any hat.

There is nothing like Grand Canyon.  Though there can be lots of people (dayhikers, backpackers, and ultra runners) the scenery is so other worldly beautiful you won’t notice.

Bonus:  if you stay at, or at Bright Angel Campground near, Phantom Ranch, go to the Phantom Ranch lodge after their dinner service.  There enjoy a beer or glass of wine and meet people from every corner of planet Earth.

Sadly I think Phantom Ranch may be closed for most services this year. I was really looking forward to checking it out. Hard to tell from the website exactly what will be open and what will be closed. However, if they are halting overnight mule rides, maybe a few less piles of poo on the trail? I don’t really object to mules on trail, but trying to look at the bright side of it.

May could be pretty hot in Grand Canyon. So pack light and not too warm sleep system. I used tarp and 40 deg quilt which is more than needed tbh. Bring sunscreen, ditch the bear canister. Get yourself an ursack that saves ton of weight. Depend on the route you are gonna be doing in Grand Canyon. Lots of major campsite will have toilet, so bring bidet and few TP. I don’t anticipate any rain in May. Even if there is, it would dry out pretty quick since it’s HOT in the canyon. I brought knee brace with me, but it ended up make it feel uncomfortable since mile 2 on my Rim to Rim trail. Ended up being an extra weight I had to bring on the entire trip. Depend on how long your trip gonna be, 10,000 mAh should be more than enough. I used 12,000 mAh battery for a week and half trip. Turn off your phone at night and put it on airplane mode to reserve batteries. One quick tip: Bring brim hat, it will be your best friend for the duration of the hike. Other than that, you will have a blast in Grand Canyon!