The AT or Benton MacKaye, New Found Gap to Davenport Gap?

[Ross M]

I will be taking my 1st trip in the Smoky’s, the 1st week of October, and I’m deciding between traveling on the AT or taking the Benton MacKaye.  I’ll be traveling between Clingman’s Dome and Davenport Gap.  Any suggestions or comments on trail conditions, shelters, and/or views between the two?

Thanks,

[Brad Rogers]

The AT has more views, on that particular route you get Clingmans Dome, Newfound Gap, Charlies Bunion, and Mt. Cammerer Fire Tower (0.6 miles off the AT but a must see).   The BMT has Clingmans Dome and Mt. Sterling Fire Tower.

The AT will be crowded (particularly between Clingmans Dome and Charlie’s Bunion) and you have to stay in shelters.  The BMT will not be very crowded and you stay in designated campsites, so it somewhat depends on if you want the higher trail, or the lower trail, and if you want to see people or not.  Some people like the shelters and others don’t, but if your on the AT, you have to stay in them.

For the AT, as for shelters, I haven’t stayed at Mt. Collins since it was remodeled, but it was one of the last GSMNP AT shelters to get the update, so it should be nice.  It’s not a bad location though.

I’ve only stayed at Icewater Spring once, as it’s often a zoo being so close to the road.  It’s  not a bad spot either, and the spring is pretty much right in the trail.

Pecks is an older shelter, and a little ways off the trail, but it’s not bad.  The water is down the hill a ways. Pecks is my wife’s favorite shelter.

I’ve stayed at Tricorner Knob more than any, due to it’s location.  The water is right by the shelter, and it’s newish.  I haven’t been there in a few years but there used to be a problem bear in that area.  It never caused any real problems but would visit every evening.

Cosby is a newer shelter too and water is right by the shelter.

I’ve never stayed in Davenport Gap so I can’t comment.

My favorite part of the trail through there is between Charlie’s Bunion and Pecks Corner.  It’s a really cool knife edge(ish) ridge in a few spots.

For the BMT what are you planning on taking from Clingmans to the BMT?  Forney Creek?  Forney Ridge?  Noland Divide?  I’ve stayed at CS#52 before.  It’s been a decade but I remember it as being nice.  #47 is small and right on the creek with a bear pole (the others all have cables).  There is a bridge over Raven Fork now and one a Beech Gap.  CS#44 is a horse camp, and was trashed last time I was there.  Laurel Gap Shelter has been redone since I was there, but it’s in a nice open area. The BMT from Laurel Gap Shelter to Big Creek is very nice.  It’s a nice ridgewalk most of the way with some decent views and a Fire Tower at Mt Sterling.  CS#38 is a little small and rocky, and can be crowded, but for some reason I really like it.

Either way I would park at Big Creek – If your on the AT that means turning off just before Davenport Gap and taking the Chestnut Branch Trail (2.1miles).

[two pints]

I have done both of the options you listed and I would far prefer the AT for the views.  You will be on ridgelines for the whole time.  The BMT through that section is fine, but I far prefer the ridgeline AT to the creeks and waterfalls of the BMT.

The only problem with the AT is the shelters and potential crowds.  As long as you plan your trip for weekdays, that should not be a problem.  If you do it mostly on weekends, then you will probably be sharing the shelter with many people.

Here is the mileage and elevation profile for the AT from Clingman’s to Davenport Gap.  Roughly 39 miles with +12,200 ft of gain and -16,700ft of loss.

Not sure how you were planning to get down from Clingman’s to the BMT, but if you drop down Forney Ridge Trail to Noland Creek Trail, then here is your mileage and elevation profile for the BMT.  This is roughly 59 miles, +19,500 ft of gain and -24,000 ft of loss.  It is a far more up and down route since you are going over multiple ridgelines and down to valleys between.

You shouldn’t have any water issues in early october, but if it is a really dry september, then water flow at the shelters could possibly be an issue since all the water on the AT is from springs.  The BMT route will have no water shortages since you will be crossing multiple creeks every day which are always flowing.  Also, as we get into the fall, they like to close shelters and campsites due to bear activity as the bears are getting in their last feeds on the mast crop before winter and they can to be a touch more aggressive as it is push time for them.  Keep an eye on the GSMNP closures website to see about water issues and bear activity closures.

https://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/temproadclose.htm

I have a GSMNP trip coming up in late October where we will be taking a water shuttle across Fontana Lake and doing a loop back to Fontana Dam to pick up some trails I haven’t done yet (High Rocks, Bone Valley) but the trip has us looping back along the AT and staying at Spence Field Shelter.  Traditionally, Spence is closed in the fall due to bear activity, so I’m keeping my eye on the closures website.  Currently Spence is under bear warning.  We could divert to Russel Field or Campsite 9, but those were also closed last fall when we hoped to do the same trip.  So instead we did an AT section in VA.

[Ross M]

Mike and Brad,

Thank you so much for your input.  That was exactly the information that I was looking for.  Mike, where did you find your elevation profile graph? That is so helpful.

We will be hiking Monday-Friday.  So, hopefully, crowds on the AT will not be a problem.

[two pints]

The elevation profiles are from the now defunct software “National Geographic Topo!”.  I bought it for 20 bucks in one of the GSMNP visitor centers over a decade ago and still use it when I am planning trips there.  PM me if you would like elevation profiles broken out by day, and I would be happy to make those for you.

Just in case you hadn’t found it yet, go to https://smokiespermits.nps.gov/index.cfm?BCPermitTypeID=1 to get your backcountry permit.  You can make reservations one month before the beginning of your trip.  Backcountry reservations cost $4 per person per night.  As you go through the reservation process, you will have to select your campsites or shelters for each night of your trip.  The reservation site is pretty good in that it will show you how many spots at each site are available and how many are already taken so you can get a good idea of how crowded a site might be.

Wish me luck.  I have 3 trips planned to the smokies between now and February.  As long as those go as expected, I will finish all the trails in the park.  It has only taken my 20 years [smirk] so I’m pretty excited to finally finish.

[Brad Rogers]

That’s exciting Mike!  I have done all of the trails “north (east)” of Newfound Gap Road and about half south of the road.  I still have most of the trails around Cades Cove to do as well as a few lingering ones on the Bryson City side.  I just have to decide if I want to commit to finishing them all as many of them I have left, I wouldn’t do for any other reason than to finish the 900.

[two pints]

I understand your dilemma Brad.  I exhausted most of the week long loops and overnight trips.  Now I am left with mopping up a bunch of side trails and trail segments tucked away in the park.  I currently stand at 29.4 miles of trails left to do to complete all of the trails.  But to get those 29.4 miles of trail, I have to hike something like 120 miles at a minimum.  I’m going to end up doing a bit more than that though since I am making a big 50 mile loop out of a section where I only need about 6 miles of trail.  The rest of the remaining miles will be done by dayhikes out and back to the car.

[Ross M]

Well, I have firmed up my plans for the 2nd week of October.  Because of shelter closures, water available, and hiking (distance) limitations of one of party, we have decided on the Davenport gap to Hot Springs section.  We will be looking at Groundhog Creek, Roaring Fork, Walnut Mountain, and Deer Park Mountain shelters.  Any info on this route and the shelters (and stealth camping) options  would be greatly appreciated. I’m looking forward to my first AT adventure.

Brad and Mike, good luck on your upcoming hikes.  It is amazing that you have almost completed all the trails in the GSMNP!

Thanks,

Ross

[Brad Rogers]

You can camp anywhere you want on that section (outside of GSMNP).  I would camp away from the shelters if it was me (I’m not a shelter fan).  Max Patch is a nice view.

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