Silky Saw Blade Teeth Type

Ross – I went with the large teeth on the Silky 170 blade to go with the handle Jan made.  It works really well and cuts quickly.  I’ve used the saw on two trips so far for some limited cuts.  I’ve noticed that after about 5 minutes of rather continuous use my hand begins to cramp a bit.

Maybe Mike Moore will chime in (I know he’s used it for winter wood while out) with his experiences.  It’s so light that I’ll continue carry it now, but it will primarily be used for ad hoc trail maintenance.  Last year (pre-Jan saw) we hit a downed tree on a narrow trail cut into a steep slope.  It took quite a bit of effort to go up and around the tree (it was only about 3″ in diameter where it hit the trail) but it was the top of the tree and there were lots of branches.  If I had had my saw with me then I would have simply cut it to make it easier for us and others to pass.

I’d say that the fine-toothed blade is only for very specific use, for very hard, dry wood or when clean cut is preferred over efficiency. I’ll avoid it if there’s a chance of cutting green wood, it would clog much more than a coarser saw.

I’m using the 8 teeth per inch blade, here it’s sold as “coarse” but it’s actually “medium” at Silky, and I’m happy with it. It’s a good all-round choice, and a good match to the length of the blade.

(I’m thinking about getting a fine 130 mm blade for woodworking at home, but that’s something different.)

I use Silky saws most days for work. Sometimes all day long as my primary tool. (Orchard and arb.)

As Jan says, I’m of the opinion that the fine teeth blade would not be appropriate for the work the OP describes.

It will be more tiring/awkward to use and more likely to bind. And, if anything like their fine toothed blades on the Gomtaro model, will be less durably sharp if abused, thinner metal and easier to bend if not careful.

I’m in agreement with the others- go medium or large teeth. They rip through wood much more efficiently. I love my Silky Saw.

I started with a Corona 7″ curved blade. Then I got the Silky 240 large tooth folder with curved blade. This is a great option for backpacking. Then I got the 270 with medium teeth and straight blade. I chose this because I tend to cut hardwood for firewood and heard medium teeth are better for that. I didn’t see medium teeth in a curved folder option. I found the 270 was less efficient even with hardwood than the 240 – probably because it lacks the curve.

But I’ve noticed I often switch between an overhand or underhand grip on the folders. This is because neither position is as optimal as having closer to a handgun type angle relative to the saw. But the folding format prevents you from having that hand angle.

So now I’ve realized the Silky Zubat is probably the best saw for me. Looking into getting the 330mm (13″ blade) length. Trying to decide btw Large or XL teeth. Leaning heavily toward XL teeth. I typically want to cut 3-4″ wood. But it would be nice to also cut even 4-5″ wood. I use either a knife to baton or a lightweight hatched to split. My 24″ Boreal Agawa bow saw is what I use for hot tenting trips but it is quite heavy at around 25oz. But I’m hoping the Zubat is efficient enough even for hot tenting trips.

My 240 folder carries well on my hip with a couple mini carabiners connecting to my belt and then I tuck the end into my thigh cargo pocket so it doesn’t flop too much. To protect my pocket, I wrap a thin small towell around it with ranger bands to prevent the thin metal part from wearing a hole.

The Zubat comes with a scabbard. Since it doesn’t fold, it’s longer for the same blade length and the curved handle also makes it take more space. But the curved handle kinda goes with the curved blade. A belt attached scabbard carries a little different than a carabiner attached folder. I think it should be quite hikable. I prefer attaching wood tools to my belt since it keeps the weight off my pack. I can balance the 1lb weight of the Zubat on one side, with a belt attached knife and scabbard on the other side for batonning. Since both items have a scabbard and secure belt attachments, there’s no need to tuck either into a cargo pocket. And even the 330 Zubat shouldn’t be so long that it causes any obstruction or hazard while climbing up scrambles.

Does anyone here have experience with the Zubat? It makes sense it should be more efficient than a folder in the same way a full tang fixed blade knife is than a folder. But having that handgun angle grip should also makes a huge difference for cutting efficiency.

I had a Silky SUGOI 360mm. Curved with extra large teeth. The scabbard being curved makes it a bit more wearable..Never had it on trail. Best blade I’ve ever used. Definitely more ergonomic than a straight saw with a straight handle. Worth the price if you use it often enough.

Thanks Terran for your intel on the Sugoi. Looked into it and think the Zubat makes more sense for me than the Sugoi. But both are fixed blade hand saws with a scabbard.

I saw a video showing the Zubat was able to saw more rapidly into a thick log than a longer sized Gomboy folder. So I do think upgrading from my 240 Gomboy to the 330 Zubat with XL teeth makes sense. 18 oz on the right side of my belt for the Zubat and another 8-20 oz on the left side of my belt for a knife to baton with and I should be set for wood prep while keeping the weight off my pack.

I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. Good brand.

I was cutting small limbs to get them out of the way. I was holding them up to cut. Getting lazy, I let the saw slide down the tiniest of branches where it hit the back of my hand and made the tiniest little cut. Straight through a tendon going to my index finger.  I can no longer point politely.  The smallest simplest things are the ones that will hurt you. Be careful out there. Don’t get lazy.

Thanks for the warning Terran. Yes it’s very easy to harm yourself when you get tired, clumsy, and careless. You don’t expect those hand saws to be so hazardous since they aren’t chain saws. Injuries come and some don’t go. You learn to make do. The body is resilient.

On my first trip with a Corona folder I was getting worn out and careless cutting wood and lightly glanced the top of my new winter boots. Luckily that boot still seems reasonably waterproof, but the leather was instantly marred. Turned out to be a cheap grade of leather anyway as it has cracked in various places after not too much wear. Yet the boots bold together and are still very comfortable.

I once got a four-foot geyser of blood from my arm by just nicking it with my Silky saw.  Fortunately it stopped quickly and no long-term damage done, but I’m now much more careful.  I have a Pocket Boy 170 folding saw with medium teeth.

I’ve got a couple saws that @Jan_Rezac made. They’re absurdly light, and work well. I’ve found the Silky Medium teeth are the way to go.

bradmacmt,

What do you usually use your silky medium tooth saw for? Firewood prep? Or bushcrafting? Something else?

I’ve heard the medium teeth are better for hardwood, and the larger teeth are better for soft or wet wood. But when I tried a medium tooth it cut less well for me and I cut mostly hardwood. But the medium tooth was also a straight blade. My large tooth saws are curved and perform better for firewood prep for me. Gonna see how the XL teeth on the Zubat does for me in a few days.

@Volker64 you bring up a good point. Being in Montana, I cut dead soft woods – fir, spruce, and larch. I’ve found the Medium is ideal for this.

Here’s Silky’s thoughts on it from their website:

Different Teeth Configurations

Silky uses different kind of teeth configurations – from extra fine to extra-large. The teeth configuration of the saw is mentioned on the blade, next to the length of the saw.

SILKY TEETH

Large and extra-large: 4 to 8 teeth per 30 mm

Saws with large teeth saw faster and with more aggression. The large configuration is developed for fast growing, fresh wood with a lot of moisture in the wood cells. The extra-large configuration is especially ideal for the tougher jobs, such as cutting down trees or sawing thick tree trunks. When sawing in dry wood with (extra) large teeth, the teeth will have difficulties grabbing the wood and will cause heavy vibrations.

Medium: 10 teeth per 30 mm

The medium teeth configuration is a real all-rounder. Sawing with teeth configuration 10 is suited for both dead and fresh wood.

Fine and extra-fine: 13 to 32 teeth per 30 mm

The fine teeth configuration is specially developed for dry wood or wood with less moisture in the wood cells, such as apple and oak. Extra fine teeth, such as 26 or 32, are specially designed for woodworkers as furniture makers or instrument builders. When sawing with (extra) fine teeth in fresh wood, the teeth will be filled very quickly.

 

Interesting.

But I suspect that those saws only work on soft pine and similar. I know what would happen if you tried using that saw on old Australian gum trees (eucalypts).

(Longer version: the teeth would bend and be damaged. To cut old gum tree fenceposts (for firewood) I have to use a chainsaw or circular saw with carbide teeth.)

Cheers

They were cutting down huge red eucalyptus trees in my neighborhood . I pointed at my yard and ended up with maybe 5 cords. It was like burning coal. Great for carne asada. I couldn’t cut it after it dried. Great wood.