Sewing ballistics cloth

Hey Jeff, you’re probably already aware, but consider if the Elna’s arm is small (narrow) enough to reach the locations where you want to put the patches. And if you’re sewing goretex, think about if you’re okay with creating needle holes for moisture to come through. Generally polyester thread, size 92 is used for this type of work, and if your machine can sew with that through a few layers (at least double layer ballistic + 1 layer of goretex) then you’re good to go. Given the super expensive nature of the pants, maybe just use as is and repair when/if the time comes?

__As mentioned above, consider if you can even get to where you want the patches. For instance, the leg will fit over the machine arm but you can only sew on a patch forward-backward not left-right…that is, you can’t turn the leg. You might have to hand sew patches.
__Unless you know that you are going to wear holes in certain places I too would probably wait for the wear to happen and then fix as needed. As far as needle holes, you need to use some sealer on the stitching. That will seal holes and plastisize the thread which will protect and strengthen them.
__If you really try to sew… Test first. My home machines will sew thru a couple layers of 1000d without trouble. A common polyester upholstery thread might work. For me I would just use normal polyester thread and do 2 or 3 lines of stitching and then seal.

Your old ELNA might, but it might not. My ELNA TSP can’t.

The most common solution is an old black Singer. Only straight stitch, but it will go through anything. They are available, but not cheap – for good reason. I suggest a 100 gauge needle and bonded nylon thread.

Cheers

maybe you don’t need such heavy fabric for a patch

it’s just supposed to take the abrasion

200d fabric should be fine

if you wanted to make a pack/bag that held up to abuse maybe the ballistics cloth would be good.  Both has to take the abrasion plus hold together

Some thoughts:

-You don’t say where you want the reinforcement patches, but if the pants have side zippers, you will have much easier access to the knee and ankle as you’ll be able to lay the fabric flat (one layer). Most repairs that I’ve seen for pants in these areas that don’t have side zips require that the inseam or outseam be seam ripped (mimicking an open side zipper), and then you have to sew (and in the case of Gore Tex, seal/tape) the side up again.

-A great MYOGer on here named Daryl has written a bunch about using adhesive-backed insignia cloth long-term, with no peeling. This could be a good option as there’s no sewing or taping needed.

-If you are new to sewing, I would practice this on some thrift store pants first, and see if it comes out how you’d like. If the test run is too frustrating or overwhelming, you can send it to a place like Rainy Pass, Repair Lair, or Santa Cruz Gear Repair, or potentially Patagonia’s Repair Center if that’s who made the pants, and they could do it for you as they have specialized equipment (I have no affiliation with any of them; as an MYOGer I’m just really impressed with their work).

Good luck!

–

areas that don’t have side zips require that the inseam or outseam be seam ripped 
Well, not really, if your sewing machine has a ‘free arm’. Any good domestic machine should. If yours does not, it is a little harder, but still not impossible.

I have just done (today) 3 repairs to 2 pairs of walking trousers. All were done by threading the free arm inside the leg of the trousers, and then wiggling things around. The repairs are barely visible on the outside.

Cheers