Topic

Sealing results. Is this what it should look like?


Forum Posting

A Membership is required to post in the forums. Login or become a member to post in the member forums!

Home Forums Gear Forums Gear (General) Sealing results. Is this what it should look like?

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #3649910
    Wayne
    BPL Member

    @lewton

    Hi

    I’ve applied McNett Silnet to the seams of my new Lunar Solo and I’m disappointed with the end result, aesthetically. I diluted it with white spirit (It’s called that in the UK), so that the consistency was like ‘runny honey’, as shown on YouTube vids. But it’s a really glossy end result, especially against the attractive muted green of the tent.

    Have I made a pig’s ear of it? Or am I being too fussy about aesthetics. I really thought it would dry clear and non-glossy. Feeling a bit annoyed with myself as the glossy lines really stand out. :(

    #3649912
    Wayne
    BPL Member

    @lewton

    #3649915
    MJ H
    BPL Member

    @mjh

    Better than I did, neatness-wise.

    #3649916
    Wayne
    BPL Member

    @lewton

    It’s not quite as straight as that everywhere. That’s a ‘good’ bit. :/

    #3649920
    BC Bob
    Spectator

    @bcbob

    Locale: Vancouver Island

    I’ve used the Tarptent procedure (silicone and mineral spirits) for seam sealing on several tents and don’t really see any before/after difference.

    How to Seam Seal Your Tarptent

    YouTube video

    #3649922
    Wayne
    BPL Member

    @lewton

    I must have blundered somewhere then, perhaps

    #3649931
    J-L
    BPL Member

    @johnnyh88

    That’s kind of what it always looks like when I’ve used McNett Silnet. It dulls with use though.

    The GE Silicone II stuff diluted with mineral spirits does come out less shiny.

    #3649932
    Wayne
    BPL Member

    @lewton

    Okay. Thanks John.

    #3649939
    Derek M.
    BPL Member

    @dmusashe

    Locale: Southern California

    The key is to wipe off the excess (that isn’t in the seams) shortly after applying it.

    In effect, the process of seam sealing with diluted silicone is an incredibly wasteful process, as probably 90% of the silicone ends up in your wipe rag. Nevertheless, that is all you need. The silicone that is not in the seams isn’t actually doing anything for you except adding weight and bulk to your item.

    It looks like the OP didn’t wipe much of the silicone off when applying.

    I follow the Tarptent method and have never had any issues. I do a once over, spray test with a garden hose (or a shower for a garment), then double seal any places where I get any drips coming through. The seams come out very waterproof in the end.

    #3650004
    jscott
    BPL Member

    @book

    Locale: Northern California

    Your job looks better than any of mine. I always liked having the sealer be visible–it reassured me that I’d done a good job hitting the seams–and an area around them.

    I don’t care at all how my seam sealer looks on my tents. I only care that it functions.

    #3650012
    Wayne
    BPL Member

    @lewton

    Thanks both. I gave it a good soaking and it was good.

    #3650024
    Ryan Jordan
    Admin

    @ryan

    Locale: Central Rockies

    I’m a bit of a stickler on aesthetics as well, Wayne. Welcome to the club of having that disease.

    Here’s what I do now.

    1. Use a first-aid irrigation syringe, which allows you to apply it just into the seam.

    2. Get a really stiff, but narrow bristle brush, about 1/4″ wide and very thin, the kind used by artists. They’re a little expensive.

    3. And then draw that brush down the seam line, in short strokes, to distribute the seam sealant well.

    The result is very little seam sealant (adds less weight) that does the job without having to slop a bunch of the goop all over your tent.

    You need less than you think, you’re just trying to plug seam holes and fabric joints.

    #3650033
    Mole J
    BPL Member

    @mole

    Locale: UK

    Wayne.

    If you don’t want to see the seam sealing, next time try plain clear builders silicone diluted with white spirit.. (I do about 1:5 – olive oily). It dries almost invisible.

    Silnett always dries somewhat glossy.    Can be mitigated with careful application as described by Ryan above.  I use a similar art brush and snip the bristles shorter, so stiffer.

    If applied less diluted as you did, I think Silnett possibly sticks better and may last longer than clear silicone.

    Our Stratospire 2 needed resealing after about 100 nights out (3years use) when sealed with dilute silicone.

     

    (I’ve sealed nearly 20 different shelters/tarps that I can recall over the last 12 years)

     

     

    #3650062
    Henry Shires / Tarptent
    BPL Member

    @07100

    Locale: Upper Sierra Foothills - Gold Rush Country

    My 2 cents is that SilNet is way too thick to be useful for seam-sealing.  A much, much better product is Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer. You can find it at hardware stores, auto-supply parts store and online.

    -H

    #3650069
    BlackHatGuy
    Spectator

    @sleeping

    Locale: The Cascades

    “Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer.”

    +1. Learned this from Ken T.

    #3650071
    Matthew / BPL
    Moderator

    @matthewkphx

    I’ve used the published TarpTent routine and been happy with the results but I like Permatex Flowable Windshield material even better. I used a short artists brush with stiff bristles. I wish I’d known about using a syringe, that makes sense.

    Question: I brush the Permatex onto the threads as well because I thought I was supposed to plug the thread holes. Is that not needed? Maybe it depends on the type of seam used when sewing…

    #3650100
    Derek M.
    BPL Member

    @dmusashe

    Locale: Southern California

    @matthewkphx

    I think you are asking about seam sealing flat seams (where you see the threading) versus hidden seams (where you don’t)?

    If so, then the answer for me is that I seam seal all the flat seam as well as the hidden seams. In some instances this is likely overkill, but once I’ve done it (at home), I never regret it (on trail), so why not if you have the patience and the energy? If you seam seal correctly, it adds very little weight and bulk.

    For example, I have seam sealed the entire perimeter seaming of my Tarptent DR. On the seams that directly connect to the inner bathtub mesh, this makes functional sense. On the lower seams for the external vestibules, it’s probably overkill. Nevertheless, I feel that those seams will theoretically absorb less water once seam sealed with silicone, so why not do it (if time is no object)?

    #3650120
    R
    Spectator

    @autox

    How well does Permatex work for bonding reinforcement patches?

    #3650157
    Roger Caffin
    BPL Member

    @rcaffin

    Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe

    >> I don’t care at all how my seam sealer looks on my tents. I only care that it functions.
    +1

    >> Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer.
    +1

    Anyhow, I thought those sealed seams looked good.

    Cheers

    #3650168
    Dan
    BPL Member

    @dan-s

    Locale: Colorado

    Looks fine to me. Good job. :thumbsup:

    #3650173
    Roger Caffin
    BPL Member

    @rcaffin

    Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe

    >> How well does Permatex work for bonding reinforcement patches?
    The Flowable Windscreen Sealant seems (to me) to work fine on silnylon. That said, you do need to give it 72 hours to cure – which is why the manufacturers don’t like applying it themselves.

    However, as I have said elsewhere, as soon as I have mated the two layers together, I ALSO sew around the edges with na simple straight stitch. The needle may get a little wet or sticky, but the uncured sealant fills the holes quickly, with just a little help. Yeah, belt and braces. I’m the one the seam is protecting.

    Cheers

    #3650705
    Nick Gatel
    BPL Member

    @ngatel

    Locale: Southern California

    Wayne your work looks fine to me!

    Here’s my TrailStar using the Permatex product.

    #3650745
    Eric Blumensaadt
    BPL Member

    @danepacker

    Locale: Mojave Desert

    As Bugs Bunny would say, “Unlax Doc”.  Ya done good.

    #3650779
    Wayne
    BPL Member

    @lewton

    Thanks folks. I’m learning to be a happy bunny. :)

    #3650793
    todd
    BPL Member

    @funnymo

    Locale: SE USA

    Silicone caulk, diluted w/mineral spirits, as stated above is my method of choice.  Jay Ham’s article  on this site about it was the prompt for me trying it years ago.

    Dries invisible, not thick or gloppy.  You can feel it a little though, and there’s no need for “removing excess” , etc.

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Forum Posting

A Membership is required to post in the forums. Login or become a member to post in the member forums!

Get the Newsletter

Get our free Handbook and Receive our weekly newsletter to see what's new at Backpacking Light!

Gear Research & Discovery Tools


Loading...