Sealing results. Is this what it should look like?

Better than I did, neatness-wise.

It’s not quite as straight as that everywhere. That’s a ‘good’ bit. :/

I’ve used the Tarptent procedure (silicone and mineral spirits) for seam sealing on several tents and don’t really see any before/after difference.

How to Seam Seal Your Tarptent

I must have blundered somewhere then, perhaps

That’s kind of what it always looks like when I’ve used McNett Silnet. It dulls with use though.

The GE Silicone II stuff diluted with mineral spirits does come out less shiny.

Okay. Thanks John.

The key is to wipe off the excess (that isn’t in the seams) shortly after applying it.

In effect, the process of seam sealing with diluted silicone is an incredibly wasteful process, as probably 90% of the silicone ends up in your wipe rag. Nevertheless, that is all you need. The silicone that is not in the seams isn’t actually doing anything for you except adding weight and bulk to your item.

It looks like the OP didn’t wipe much of the silicone off when applying.

I follow the Tarptent method and have never had any issues. I do a once over, spray test with a garden hose (or a shower for a garment), then double seal any places where I get any drips coming through. The seams come out very waterproof in the end.

Your job looks better than any of mine. I always liked having the sealer be visible–it reassured me that I’d done a good job hitting the seams–and an area around them.

I don’t care at all how my seam sealer looks on my tents. I only care that it functions.

Thanks both. I gave it a good soaking and it was good.

I’m a bit of a stickler on aesthetics as well, Wayne. Welcome to the club of having that disease.

Here’s what I do now.

1. Use a first-aid irrigation syringe, which allows you to apply it just into the seam.

2. Get a really stiff, but narrow bristle brush, about 1/4″ wide and very thin, the kind used by artists. They’re a little expensive.

3. And then draw that brush down the seam line, in short strokes, to distribute the seam sealant well.

The result is very little seam sealant (adds less weight) that does the job without having to slop a bunch of the goop all over your tent.

You need less than you think, you’re just trying to plug seam holes and fabric joints.

Wayne.

If you don’t want to see the seam sealing, next time try plain clear builders silicone diluted with white spirit.. (I do about 1:5 – olive oily). It dries almost invisible.

Silnett always dries somewhat glossy.    Can be mitigated with careful application as described by Ryan above.  I use a similar art brush and snip the bristles shorter, so stiffer.

If applied less diluted as you did, I think Silnett possibly sticks better and may last longer than clear silicone.

Our Stratospire 2 needed resealing after about 100 nights out (3years use) when sealed with dilute silicone.

(I’ve sealed nearly 20 different shelters/tarps that I can recall over the last 12 years)

My 2 cents is that SilNet is way too thick to be useful for seam-sealing.  A much, much better product is Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer. You can find it at hardware stores, auto-supply parts store and online.

-H

“Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer.”

+1. Learned this from Ken T.

I’ve used the published TarpTent routine and been happy with the results but I like Permatex Flowable Windshield material even better. I used a short artists brush with stiff bristles. I wish I’d known about using a syringe, that makes sense.

Question: I brush the Permatex onto the threads as well because I thought I was supposed to plug the thread holes. Is that not needed? Maybe it depends on the type of seam used when sewing…

@matthewkphx

I think you are asking about seam sealing flat seams (where you see the threading) versus hidden seams (where you don’t)?

If so, then the answer for me is that I seam seal all the flat seam as well as the hidden seams. In some instances this is likely overkill, but once I’ve done it (at home), I never regret it (on trail), so why not if you have the patience and the energy? If you seam seal correctly, it adds very little weight and bulk.

For example, I have seam sealed the entire perimeter seaming of my Tarptent DR. On the seams that directly connect to the inner bathtub mesh, this makes functional sense. On the lower seams for the external vestibules, it’s probably overkill. Nevertheless, I feel that those seams will theoretically absorb less water once seam sealed with silicone, so why not do it (if time is no object)?

How well does Permatex work for bonding reinforcement patches?

>> I don’t care at all how my seam sealer looks on my tents. I only care that it functions.
+1

>> Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer.
+1

Anyhow, I thought those sealed seams looked good.

Cheers

Looks fine to me. Good job. :thumbsup:

>> How well does Permatex work for bonding reinforcement patches?
The Flowable Windscreen Sealant seems (to me) to work fine on silnylon. That said, you do need to give it 72 hours to cure – which is why the manufacturers don’t like applying it themselves.

However, as I have said elsewhere, as soon as I have mated the two layers together, I ALSO sew around the edges with na simple straight stitch. The needle may get a little wet or sticky, but the uncured sealant fills the holes quickly, with just a little help. Yeah, belt and braces. I’m the one the seam is protecting.

Cheers

Wayne your work looks fine to me!

Here’s my TrailStar using the Permatex product.

As Bugs Bunny would say, “Unlax Doc”.  Ya done good.

Thanks folks. I’m learning to be a happy bunny. :)

Silicone caulk, diluted w/mineral spirits, as stated above is my method of choice.  Jay Ham’s article  on this site about it was the prompt for me trying it years ago.

Dries invisible, not thick or gloppy.  You can feel it a little though, and there’s no need for “removing excess” , etc.