Replacement Control Valve Handle for Cannister Stove?

Brad, you could make one from a coat hanger, or a similar diameter stainless steel rod from your hardware store. I’ve made several out of some scrap titanium rod I had, and it’s fairly easy to do. Of course you will need a Dremel tool to cut the rod cleanly, and a couple pair of pliers.

Gary-thanks. I will have to search through the tool box for some scraps. I think tie wire would be too pliable. I guess I could drill out the holes if I can’t find anything that thin.

Brad, rather than boring out the holes at the stove end, why not just grind off a little bit of the ‘wire’ end to get it to slip into the stove’s holes. I had to do that for one stove.

Just to make things clear – I made my valve handles to replace some that were too short. I wanted longer ones so that I wouldn’t burn my fingers when I operated those stoves. Once I found out how easy it was to make replacements, I went bonkers and did it for several stoves. You know, a man can’t just have some scraps of titanium rod – he has to make something with them. By the way, I used CP-2 titanium, as it’s easier to bend than the 6AL-4V alloy. It IS more pliable, but that isn’t a problem at all during the stove use.

Gary-that makes perfect sense. I will dig around and see what I can come up with.

One last thought, Brad. Most, but not all, wire handles are pretty much interchangeable. So if you have a crappy stove that you hate and never use, remove the handle and toss that stove when your wife isn’t watching.

Bicycle spokes provide a useful source of wire for stove control handles.  They are available in several diameters. Just get cheap ones that are not too brittle.

Hard steel wire, in the form of repurposed paper clips. Almost free and come in a range of thicknesses.

Cheers

Brad: I ordered some fake BRS-3000Ts off of eBay (they were crap, were overweight, over heated, and shutdown after 4 minutes of operation until they cooled off).  I filed a claim and eventually got some money back.  Real on the left, fake on the right:
anyway, if you want the handle off the fake one, I could USPS first-class mail it to you.  The wire diameter and spacing seems very close to what everyone uses on their backpacking stoves.  If the photo is at 0 degrees, it flips up +120 and down 120 degrees for storage.  If the valve is turned, then it flips +/- 120 degrees left and right for storage.  As usually, my PIF would include a piece of my favorite stove base / fire-starter and 25 feet of my favorite SUL cordage (braided, 130-pound-test Dacron line).

Hi David

Very odd things here. I agree that the one on the left is a BRS-3000T stove, but the one on the right looks a bit like a Fire Maple FMS-300T Mini-Hornet. I have both, and my version of the one on the right is very clearly labeled Fire Maple. It works well. I believe what you have is not an actual an FMS-300T but a copy.

There are variants all over the web. GearBest have several of them. Yours may be one of the variants.

Cheers

The eBay vendor out of China offered it as a “BRS-3000T” and listed the usual BRS-3000T specs like 0.9 ounces.  I knew it was different going in, but at $7.80, thought I’d give it a shot.  It conducts so much heat down the stem that within a few minutes it is dangerous to unscrew it from a canister barehanded.  And after several minutes, its output would lessen and then stop.  My theory is that the something about the stem getting so hot changed the geometry of the valve to the point that even full-open wasn’t open at all.  I could imagine someone running it, opening the valve more and more, it going out, and then the operator **not closing the valve**, perhaps assuming the canister to be empty.  After the stove cooled, it would then vent butane – into your pack, tent, car, snow cave or towards your campfire – none of which is a good scenario.

After I complained to eBay about the misstated weight and other claims, they seller did eliminate the weight from their listing.

Hum ….. interesting.

The burner columns on both the BRS-3000T and the FMS-300T are not aluminium – they are either SS or Ti. These have very poor thermal conductivity compared to aluminium. IF the column on your stove is aluminium … yeah, problem.

I have had a problem with differential thermal expansion on one of my stove designs, but it went the other way. The aluminium body expanded more than the Ti needle valve, so the stove revved up as it got hotter. The real problem was when it all cooled down and the aluminium body shrank more than the Ti needle valve – which jammed. Underlying all that was the long length of the needle valve: much much longer than on any of these stoves.

But yours is the other way around: it shuts down while running. Now Al has a coeff of expansion of 21-24, while brass is 18. So it should not do that with an Al body and a brass needle valve, especially that short. Right now, dunno.

Cheers

BRS 3000 has a short stem compared to other stoves

On the one hand, this is good, because if you have a Mulder strip, it’s shorter so conducts heat better to the canister.  My Soto has a long stem and barely works with a Mulder strip.  Shorter stem also makes it weigh less.

On the other hand, the valve gets hotter, and where the stove screws onto canister.  Maybe this is bad.  If you turn the stove way down this might not be a problem.