REI Quarter Dome SL1-Footprint/Fly Pitch

[Brad W]

Would anyone know if it’s possible to get the side of the fly any lower to the ground in a footprint/fly only pitch? It’s about 10-12″ off the ground in the middle.  In hard wind/rain I’d like to be able to lower them as much as possible.

 

[Sam Farrington]

You lost me with the photo and post.  The images on REI do show that the fly does not reach closely to the ground, but certainly closer than a foot.  You might be missing something with the pitch.  Perhaps the ground sheet ad-on will allow moving the pole tips a bit further away from each other, thus lowering the fly.

 

[Michael B]

Doubtful, without shortening the poles. The pole length was designed to create a gap, which is covered by the bathtub floor when the tent is pitched normally. I’d invest in a splash bivvy for that setup

[Brad W]

@mikebergy Thanks. I guess site selection would be the only option-put this side near a boulder or tree.

[Michael B]

Since it is only a single pole setup, you might be able to get away with staking it down to the ground on one side or the other, maybe you already tried that? It would only get you closer to the ground on one side, higher on the other. You might get the height you are looking for by just removing one of the pole sections (see link below for instructions). If that doesn’t work, no harm done, just place the pole section back in.

https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/how-to-fix-a-tent-pole.html

[Brad W]

@mikebergy Great suggestions. I didn’t consider the pole option. I’ll also try letting  that sides roof pole dangle leaving more slack in the fly.
 

[Sam Farrington]

From REI product page:  “Fly/footprint minimalist pitch option lets you leave the tent at home and use the fly, poles and footprint (sold separately) as a lightweight shelter.”

From the OP:  “…in a footprint/fly only pitch?”

From Michael B:  ‘”Doubtful, without shortening the poles.”

If you elect to shorten the poles, as Michael B mentioned, it should be easy.  Most poles can be easily disassembled in order to replace shockcord or pole sections.  Just shorten the pole by the desired amount, on the end of an end section that does not have a ferrule welded into it,  so no worries about how the end tips are affixed to the pole ends.  You want to shorten an end section,  so the poles will fold up without any sticking out of the bundle.  A mini-cutoff saw such as those from Harbor Freight Tools is cheap and efficient, but order extra 2″ blades as they get dull fast; and the saw will do a better job than heavier saws,  But still buff smooth the raw cuts on the pole ends.

Also, lowering the tent will bring the fly closer to the footprint, so you may have to shorten the tapes leading from the footprint to the pole grommets.

You have piqued my curiosity, so will stop by the REI near me and see how the footprint/fly only pitch works, how they end up with 10-12″ ground clearance, and how the pole end tips are attached to the poles.  The only question is that after taking a lot of their time, how do I politely tell them I’m not buying the tent.  Maybe I can squawk about the ten inch ground clearance.

[Michael B]

I watched a video ( oddly enough, a BPL review) of this tent, and the fly didn’t seem too high in that video. I wonder maybe was the quarter dome updated with a smaller fly recently? Video is from 2019

[Sam Farrington]

Thank you, Michael B.  After watching most of the video, it showed the tent from the rear, where it was staked very tightly.  There is one image on the current product page, with the door open, where you can see through to the fly at the back, and it also seems to have less ground clearance at the rear stake point.  But maybe not as much as Brad W’s estimate of 10-12″.

This is fairly common.  In modifying a Hubba tent for a friend, I saw that at the same rear point, the ground clearance was even higher.  My guess is that this design is intended to improve ventilation and lower condensation.  Am also guessing that Brad’s photo in the OP is also taken at the rear center.

My previous comments about shortening the poles were wrong.  The tent is designed with less ground clearance at the rear and front vestibule.  Changing the pole lengths would probably throw the whole design out of kilter and ruin the tent.

If we want a tent with close to zero ground clearance all the way around, we must make sure of it before purchase.  Caveat Emptor.  Let the buyer beware.

Please note:  Ryan’s comments in the printed version of his review speculate that the tent fly fabric has quite low emissivity;  that is, it radiates heat at a lower rate, which the late Jack Stephenson believed lowered condensation.  However, REI’s product page states that the fabric is polyurethane coated nylon.

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[Brad W]

The photo does show the back middle. This is worst case scenario. It’s not a deal breaker whatsoever, I could pitch the tent in a different direction if the weather got bad.

 

Thanks for the input.

[Sam Farrington]

Brad:  If you do get inclined to lower the ground clearance at the rear center, it could be done by adding a fabric piece shaped to reduce the clearance, especially at the center point where the rear of the fly is guyed out.

But am glad to hear that the tent as designed is not a deal breaker.  Modifying it, just at the rear of the fly, could be a foray into dark territory.  I’ve done a lot of mods, most of which were successful, but a few consumed a lot of time and work, and never left the basement workshop.  They’re stashed in boxes somewhere.  Plus if you don’t sew, that is a whole learning process that takes a ton of time to master.  Those close to me have often surmised that getting out of the basement more often would be beneficial.   I’ve found it to be good advice.  Unfortunately, hobbies can be addictive.

 

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