- Feb 12, 2017 at 9:27 pm #3450314
John EBPL Member
I’m working on a Solomid qlone and was wondering if anyone could draw a sketch or take some good pictures of how the peak is put together? I’m especially puzzled at how four pieces of fabric can come together in a pyramid to form a peak without a hole in it… Thanks in advance!Feb 12, 2017 at 10:01 pm #3450319
I am not at all sure I understand your query properly, but in general explorations I have made a pyramidal cap of maybe 6 or 8 inches radius, then attached the panels to that, so the top vertex of each triangular panel has been cut off (truncated). The cap is like a mini pyramid, and it needs only one radial seam. That makes the sewing much easier, and improves waterproofness, while allowing the reinforcement of the cap (by using stronger fabric). Also, better to sew the panel joins from peak to base, as the two pieces of fabric creep relative to each other; then you can trim the base to even up any unevenness. Much easier than sewing the other way, which likely results in distortions near the peak.Feb 13, 2017 at 6:07 am #3450332
John EBPL Member
Robert, that is exactly the answer I was seeking…a pyramidal cap. Thank you! I was also reading that there are peaks that are optimized for two trekking poles. Can you speak to this? I use two trekking poles and put the handles in the peak…and two handles is too bulky for the peak so I end up having one of my ridgelines not super taut. Any tips?Feb 13, 2017 at 6:39 am #3450339
You can use a Locus Gear DPTE (Dual Pole Tip Extender), which is essentially two tubes with a hinge joint and a loop. The pole tips go inside the two tubes at the apex, inside the mid, poles set at maybe 125 cm; there are cups that Velcro on the pole handles and a cord to stop the pole handles, which are on the ground, extending too far from one another. Maybe each foot (handle end) 6″ inside the tarp, though the tarp does have ties to go around the pole, but I never bother with them. The DPTE and two poles form an A-frame, and really free up the inside of the mid. A little more fiddley to erect than one pole, but well worth it, but don’t puncture the mid setting it up or taking down (often I almost have…)
you want a loop inside the apex to hang a mesh inner. Some attach a loop outside as well to hang the mid from a sky hook, but that risks compromising the waterproofness.
You could instead try sewing two very light tubes (carbon fiber or maybe alu, possibly even polythene of plastic) into the mid, but would need to ensure that the two tops form a hinge, and cannot push past each other, and this time around I suggest you don’t. Better to get a feel for the structural behavior first.
Of course the mid cap goes (is sewn) on the outside of the mid; but apart from the problem of having to have a funnel shape for the pole or two poles or DPTE to push against, you might consider an open apex, which would vent well, then stuff fabric in the hole when it rains. Or have a hood that pulled over it. I suppose some webbing to catch the pole ends, make sure the panels hang properly and can take the strain.
if pole length isn’t/wasn’t such a limitation, I would definitely have the two poles outside the mid, not inside; but the limit is hiking pole length max 135cm plus pole jack of 8 or 10″ or 12″ at most. My old Lekis are 150cm, but even that is too short without extenders. If you are cutting saplings at the campsite, then not such a problem.
you don’t absolutely need a vent at the top, but hot air builds up there; you might consider a tunnel vent set into one panel, which I made for my experimental mid; many older dome tents used that kind of vent, and I rather like them, but I haven’t seen others use them on mids. There’s a photo of mine in a fairly recent thread, but I can’t remember the subject of the thread, sorry. If I get inspired tomorrow I’ll post a photo.Feb 13, 2017 at 10:57 am #3450380Feb 13, 2017 at 8:51 pm #3450439
John, here’s a photo, showing the tunnel vent in flaccid condition (sigh). In this case, it actually has a hexagonal cross-section, not circular. mesh inset end, and tie to close it up. I made it too long, but no matter, in practice, it works well. The door zip opening extends all the way to the apex, with the idea of being able to use the tarp flat occasionally; but I also sewed in a (hidden) gusset so it wouldn’t really do that (change of mind).
If you decide to go ventless, make sure your door zipper opens from the top as well as the bottom, so you can create a top vent that way. Or avoid a zip altogether.
I think it is a good chance to experiment – the worse that can happen is that your tarp collapses in a blizzard, you get soaked to the skin, hypothermic, develop pneumonia, and get eaten by wolves, so why not?
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