a proper climbing pack for rock (with some snow.ice) requires at minimum
- 210+ D nylon or gridstop with a thicker or double on high wear areas (bottom, back), preferably much thicker or durable
- clean slimmer profile with minimal mesh or pockets (theyll catch on something)
- higher centre of balance
- harness compatible (will sit a bit higher)
- some flexibility (if its too rigid its hard to make some climbing moves)
- rope carry strap
- ice tools loops
- low profile hip belt
- should be fairly minimal or very strippable in design
now folks have used any type of packs for easy climbing … but those arent “ideal” situations … if you are going to buy a pack for climbing then get one that can climb well and has the needed features
which brings me to another point …
you absolutely need to try the pack to make sure it FITS properly … an ill fitting pack hiking is a pain, an ill fitting loaded pack when climbing can be DEADLY ….
if it throws you off balance for a move at a critical point, you may well go tumbling down …
when i try on climbing packs not only do i fully load em walking around the store … i also go to the climbing wall and do laps on easy stuff with em loaded (dont cut off the tags yet)
to be blunt … to have significant weight savings youll need to sacrifice something … either in terms of durability, pay more for expensive materials, go frameless, go with UL hiking packs that may not be as suitable, etc …
personally i just picked up a dead bird alpha 45 which weights ~700g … but thats a pretty minimal alpine pack thats VERY fit specific … my old osprey mutant 38 weighted ~1250g, but got down to < 1000g stripped …
my advice is to go try on every pack you can get your hands on and find the best fit ( i would never have bought the dead bird if i couldnt try on friends who had it fully loaded, the 40%+ off didnt hurt either)
PS the kalais mentined above comes with 70D sides by default … which to be blunt will blow apart eventually on rock … there is a 210D option but thatll weight more i suspect
;)