- Jul 9, 2017 at 4:41 pm #3478023
Companion forum thread to: MYOG Synthetic Fill Vest (Make Your Own Gear)
Step by step guide on how to MYOG synthetic fill vest. This is an easy first project if you are interested in making synthetic clothing.Jul 9, 2017 at 5:00 pm #3478029
I was just reading this again
I made this about a year ago, and wrote this article maybe 8 months ago. I’ve used this vest since and like it even better. If it’s not going to be colder than 32 F, this is all I take (plus WPB jacket). Colder than that I add my down vest.
It’s 4 1/4″ from the top corner of the shoulder to the front (zipper). It’s a bit tight. Next time I’d make it maybe 5 1/4″.
The bottom of the armholes is still a bit tight, but it’s not bad enough that I’ve done anything about it (yet).Jul 9, 2017 at 5:11 pm #3478032
Ken T.BPL Member
Congrats Jerry. Heard of this article in the Publisher’s Blog in March.
Freezing temps, two vests? Don’t your arms get cold?
Jul 9, 2017 at 6:58 pm #3478045
- This reply was modified 8 months, 2 weeks ago by Ken T..
With long sleeve base layer, synthetic vest, down vest, WPB jacket, I am okay down to 20 F or so.
You can have more insulation on torso, or less on torso and more on arms, and get the same amount of total heat loss from the body.
I recognize most people like insulated sleeves, but that’s what works for me. I don’t like insulation on sleeves because it inhibits arm movement.Sep 16, 2017 at 11:18 pm #3491408
Jerry when you first made the pattern did you deconstruct the vest or did you do a rough approximation and then ? I have been thinking about trying to tackle something like this before I try a synthetic quilt and I am debating on buying a pattern or trying to wing it.
MikeSep 18, 2017 at 1:06 pm #3491720
Many people buy patterns. That is a smart idea. My mom used patterns. I would never use a pattern.
I took a garment that fit, and used it to make a pattern. I “straightened” it, for example made it the same width at the bottom and top. I think some patterns will be narrower at the waist or something to make it fit better.
Then, after I used the pattern to make something, if it was a bit narrow somewhere, I’d alter it a bit.
Or, measure the diameter of your chest, the biggest diameter. Add 2 inches for a tight fitting garment, 6 inches for a loose fitting garment. Add 6 times the loft for an insulated garment, 2.5 ounce Apex is maybe 3/4 inch so add 4.5 inches. Then make your pattern that size.Sep 18, 2017 at 6:43 pm #3491788
Thank you for the advice.
I may try the same thing I have a MH jacket that I like the way it fits and I can use it as a base. I am more about making it work intuitively then following patterns and directions. Things tend to stick better when I have to work them out for myself.
Is the 6x the loft something you worked out through trial and error or something that is a mathematical calculation for a differential cut on something like a jacket or a quilt when you look at the difference in circumference of the 2 circles (inner and outer)?Sep 18, 2017 at 7:22 pm #3491796
I prefer to figure out things myself because it’s entertaining. If someone else figures it out, then they got that entertainment : )
6 = 2 * pi (close enough, you could use 6.28)
the diameter of a circle is 2 * pi * radius
the diameter of a circle that is L bigger in radius is 2 * pi * (radius + L)
so, you want your outer shell fabric bigger around by 2 * pi * loftSep 18, 2017 at 8:11 pm #3491806
Math is amazing, thank you for making me think it through.
I would have just done the math over and over all the way through using pi*diameter for both the inner and the outer and not noticed the relationship between the 2 numbers until I had seen it a few times.Oct 16, 2017 at 3:51 am #3496978
Thanks for the MYOG guide. I just made a vest out of 3.6 oz apex, 1.6 oz calendared hyper D outside, 1.1 oz uncalendared ripstop on the inside, with a powerstretch collar. The 3.6 oz was probably too much… 2.5 oz would have been better. Total weight 5.7 oz.
The only thing I have to add to your guide is an alternative way to do the major seams. I basically copied the way people seem to do quilts. i.e. put your two layers of ripstop on top of each other then put the Apex on top then sew the perimeter edges except for one small section. Turn inside out (right side out). Sew the remaining perimeter seam. Then sew the shoulder seam, collar, and zipper on. To make the sewing easier I put strips of scrap ripstop over the apex as I sewed the perimeter, though tear away stabilizer would probably have been better. I debated whether or not to topstich the perimeter, but it doesn’t really seem necessary, and I can do it later if I decide it does in fact need it.
The main benefit of this alternate method is probably mostly that the armhole seams turn out good looking with very little effort. The section of perimeter I left undone to turn it inside out was the collar, but if I was to do it again I’d use the bottom hem instead and finish it the way you do your perimeter seams.
I had a little trouble getting the tension right with the 3.6 oz apex sandwich. I had it too high and the springyness of the apex causes a slight accordian style rumpling/shrinking of the seams which made the zipper a pain to get on straight.
-CheersMar 8, 2018 at 2:14 am #3523025
Eric BlumensaadtBPL Member
@danepackerLocale: Mojave Desert
Thanks for the detailed instructions, drawings and photos. I like the knit, stand-up collar. Nice touch.
If I make one for myself I’ll also use Climashield Apex insulation due to its loft retention after repeated stuffing. Better than Primaloft Gold in this respect.
Also I’ll sew the Apex insulation in large 3″ diamond “quilt” pattern to the lining fabric (only) to keep it from shifting and possibly tearing when stuffed.
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