Yay a light nerd post! Awesome light I have the Manker E02 II. Love it, but I don’t like that to charge it, you need a 10440 that has built in USB port on the battery, so I don’t use it much. I much prefer in-chassis charging ports for many reasons but primarily: higher battery capacity (also more robust). Also don’t like removing the batteries to charge. You can lose end caps, o rings etc.
I’ve messed with all the different battery form factors, and my thoughts on them in descending size:

-18650. Form factor is bomber. Use these tanks when performance and reliability are key. Packrafting kayaking, River trips or trips where I know I’ll be night hiking a ton.
– 18350. Another bomber form factors, a “half cell” 18650. Many 18650 lights come with half tubes for use with 18350s so you can go lighter if needed. My Wurkkos HD15s have done thousands of miles of duty in both tube factors. Love the dual emitter with flood, spot or a combo, and they can be used as power banks and chargers. These batteries are the best choice if you’re using turbo mode a ton or using them as power banks as it’s really hard on batteries.
– 16340 (CR123 form factor). I have a few of these lights and like them primarily because you can use disposable CR123s on most of these. I don’t use them much any more.
– 14500 (AA size). This is my current go-to form factor for general UL uses. Batteries can be up to 18350 levels in capacity (Vapcells excellent F15 is rated to 1500mah), they are robust in use, no failures yet, and many lights can use AA cells in a pinch, though at much limited power levels. I can usually go about 5 days between charges depending on night usage. Can use turbo mode with care.
– 10440 (AAA size), the OPs light uses these. Like them. Limited capacity, about a 3rd of a good 14500. As you get down in girth, the batteries are much less durable. I’ve had a few failures in the field over the years. But they are good for shorter trips where you won’t need turbo mode a ton.
– 10180 (about 1/3rd AAA). Cute little guys great for keychain lights. Fragile not robust.
My primary backpacking light right now is the Wurkkos HD10. Love that it has Anduril 2 OS, so fully customizable UI. I have mine set to smooth ramping (IYKYK you’ll never go back) and I love it’s ancillary RGB lights. I have them set to Red, Green and Blue and use them all the time.





A word about Anduril 2 (ie, use programmable UI): very intimidating at first but once you read the charts and guides, you’re really only building your UI once. The click sequences and charts are weird but you don’t really need to memorize anything. I also have Anduril OS charts in my sacred “Outdoor” folder on my phone next to all my other critical beta and guides. It’s an extremely powerful thing to be able to build your own UI though and I highly recommend digging in if you like to control lots of parameters. My UIs are very simple.
Key bits for me in a light are smooth ramping, decent color temp 2700-3000k (no blue light please), fully replaceable battery, built in charging, waterproof and robust. Anduril is a great thing if you want to nerd out and I typically HATE factory UIs.
I will never buy a plastic light again. I’ve seen physical failures of almost every popular brand. I’ve never had an aluminum tube break. Too many great lights out there for me to even consider any big brand nonsense.