Gregory: So did the stove work again, once it had cooled down? If not, then it sounds like Jenny’s got the answer.
If the stove DOES work, once it’s cooled down (I’ve had off-brand stove that did that), then 1) that’s a crappy design, 2) it’s not insurmountable in the field if you just heat smaller batches of water, 3) try to get MSR to repair/replace it, and 4) add a 25-gram, $14 BRS-3000T to your kit in the meantime, or maybe just switch (although it’s 1/12 the price, 1/16 the weight and about 1/10 the volume of the Reactor and we ULers are supposed to like smaller, lighter, cheaper options).
The stove I had that tapered off and then shut off while boiling about 1 liter would work again when cool. Thankfully, I was testing some pots and watching it, and took the stove head off the canister. If I’d thought, “oh, I must be out of gas” and left the stove attached to the canister, once it cooled, it would have vented all the gas, unburned, which could be hazardous in a tent or near a campfire or in my garage in that case. I’d theorized that something in the valve assembly caused by different thermal expansion of different metals caused the valve stem to expand and seat the valve against the valve body. I’m now thinking it could be that, or it could be that the stove vertical stem (which got really, really hot) maybe expanded up enough to lift the plunger up out of the Lindal valve.