I recently purchased a Brother 1034DX serger and have been practicing a bit making microfleece beanies. This weekend I tried my hand at making a shirt, a first for me for sure. I used the 4004 (90 gsm) alpha direct fleece fabric from Discovery Fabrics. For a pattern, I started with the Hugo Hoodie pattern on Freesewing.org and carefully entered all of my measurements. The size of the shirt that I made is equivalent to a women’s medium petite.
I learned a few things during this process that I thought might be helpful to others. First, buy good quality thread. I used the Gutermann premium serger thread. I did some playing around with lesser quality thread and had a hard time getting the thread tension right. With the Gutermann premium serger thread, getting the thread tension set up correctly was easy.
Secondly, use a roller cutter to cut the fabric. It keeps the alpha direct fabric from fraying and makes the process of cutting the fabric easy and precise.
And lastly, the Hugo Hoodie pattern on the Freesewing site is adjustable for lots of variables (hip ease percentage, chest ease percentage, bicep ease percentage, etc.). I went mostly with the stock settings based on my measurements, and the shirt came out kind of tight in the armpits, causing me to have to go through a time consuming process of adding armpit gussets.
I would recommend that you take a shirt that fits you under the armpits and measure the shirt there. Then try a couple of tweaks to the Freesewing pattern by increasing the bicep ease percentage. Print the pattern, measure the armpits and compare to your well fitting shirt. I discovered that I needed to increase the bicep ease to 45% instead of the default 15% setting to get a loose fit in the armpits.
It was a fun weekend project, and I’m planning to make a shirt for my spouse and then some pants. The alpha fabric was surprisingly easy to work with. Total weight for the shirt is 3.55 oz.


