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Lightest Canister Stove?
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Home › Forums › Gear Forums › Gear (General) › Lightest Canister Stove?
- This topic has 9 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 8 years ago by Bob Moulder.
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Mar 7, 2016 at 9:25 am #3387286
Looking for a suggestion. I had the Oilcamp titanium one, but I’m pretty certain an over-zealous TSA agent stole that hunk of titanium from me. And my sawyer full size.
Anywayz. What’s the lightest one that is functional?
Mar 7, 2016 at 9:53 am #3387290it’s the cheapo BRS-3000 or whatever it’s called from china. Won’t get any lighter than that.
Mar 7, 2016 at 10:06 am #3387293Wow. Way to end the thread! In my cart. It looks like the Oilcamp one, but somehow lighter.
Mar 7, 2016 at 10:23 am #3387297Yeah, it’s a great little stove. Super cheap – make sure you test it before you take it out as there have been some reports of people having lemons.
Mine worked great right out of the box.
Enjoy!
Mar 7, 2016 at 10:31 am #3387302“Wow. Way to end the thread!”
No! This is BPL. Threads don’t end so easy : )
“Super cheap – make sure you test it before you take it out as there have been some reports of people having lemons.”
Maybe better to get a better quality stove. What is the weight for that, 1.5 ounce? Many stoves are 3 ounces. Pocket Rocket is the old standby. Soto stoves are maybe better quality. I’ve used both of those without a problem. If you save 1.5 ounces with BRS-3000, it’s pretty insignificant.
I’m not disagreeing with Jen, but there are other possibilities.
google “BRS 3000 site:backpackinglight.com” and look at what went wrong, what to look for, how to fix it,…
Mar 7, 2016 at 11:56 am #3387313C’mon, Jerry, there are a heck of a lot of us that have no problem whatsoever with our BRS-3000T stoves. Jen must have like hers a lot, as she sold me her Fire Maple Hornet FMS-300T on Gear Swap. I assume the OP’s stolen Olicamp stove was the Ion, which is simply a rebranded FMS-300T. I think the BRS-3000T was a knock-off of the FMS-300T. They look pretty much the same, but they actually are a bit different. The FMS-300T is better built, with brass threads where it screws onto the canister, and it is a slightly more burley stove (but it has a shorter a shorter valve handle though).
The FMS-300T weighs 1.6 oz. and the BRS-3000T weighs .95 oz. I think they are both lightweight players, whereas I think the Pocket Rocket is a piece of junk. If I were to suggest a stove in the ~3 oz. class, it would be the Snow Peak Giga, without the piezo.
In my mind the BRS-3000T is a winner, based upon weight and price. And if there’s a reasonable way to drop 1.5 oz., why not do it?
Mar 7, 2016 at 11:58 am #3387314the BRS3000T also makes a great secondary stove for when you and your climbing partner where a main stove failure would be very bad (backup to a jetboil on a climb) as it weights nothing and is small as a lighter
one thing to note with the BRS and the MSR (pocket rocket) is that the threads are now hardened aluminum …. so they may not last as long as brass threaded stoves
<span class=”Apple-style-span”>I started my hiking career with MSR Pocket Rocket stoves. After about 6 months of constant use the thread will wear out and you will not be able to screw the stove down to the canister any more. As long as the canister is completely full of gas the stove will still work on a low flame, but after a couple of days the gas pressure will be too low and your stove useless. In a pinch you can try to press the stove down onto the canister with a string/rope and wedges construction, but this is not a long-term solution. This has happened to me with two different Pocket Rocket stoves despite careful handling. MSR has refused to exchange them under warranty. I would never ever carry a Pocket Rocket on a long trip again and can only advise against them. I have now changed to a Snow Peak Giga Power and to my big surprise the thread is still holding up after almost 3 years of constant use. Apparently Snow Peak uses a better material for the thread than MSR.</span>
http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.ca/p/what-breaks-when-and-why.html
;)
Mar 7, 2016 at 12:02 pm #3387316Well, for $15 shipped I can buy 3 of them ;)
I know the drill around here, Jerry. Plenty of opinions, at least they are usually pleasantly presented and meant to be helpful. I think in this case I’m going to choose cheap and light out of the cheap/light/reliable triangle.
Mar 7, 2016 at 12:46 pm #3387335thats the biggest thing with these chinese stoves …. most folks are generally happy with em (any stove will have some bad reviews)
and you can buy decent ones for anywhere from 8 -15 dollahz
you probably wont take em up everest, but for walking in the woods theyre plenty fine
to be blunt the only companies that are really “innovating” are the ones making heat exchanger stoves (jetboil, MSR) … or for regular stoves, the chinese one (BRS, fire maple)
everyone else seems to be stuck in the 2-4 oz stoves with fancier marketing and more “features”
its only a matter of time till these chinese stoves start REALLY taking away market share from the major companies …. already alpkit in the UK is rebranding fire maple stoves
if i were a big box retailer such as REI or MEC, i would be selling these stoves as my store brand at a bit of a markup, and have the warranty to boot …
sell the BRS for ~20-30$ branded as a MEC/REI item with warranty? … its a sure seller
;)
Mar 7, 2016 at 1:04 pm #3387339I have a couple of the BRS-3000T stoves, one of which I’ve used a lot (in the field and for doing stove experiments and testing fuels) and one I’ve used a little. For the price at the time, which was about $11, it made sense to buy at least 2 of them, and it has been such a good little stove that in retrospect I wish I’d bought a couple more.
For my cold-weather stove tests I changed canisters quite a lot, and the threads of the #1 stove that has seen lots of use are still in great shape. But I’ve always been really careful to make sure the threads were perfectly lined up when screwing stove and canister together, and never tried to ‘force the issue’ if I felt even the slightest resistance. I can see where cross-threading and persisting in the face of resistance could lead quite quickly to damage.
HOWEVER, if care is always taken — as it always should be — IMVHO there is no reason in hell this stove shouldn’t last for many years of frequent use. When you think about it, how are the threads going to be damaged other than by cross-threading or grossly overtightening?
One suggestion I’d add is to always carry the stove in that little green bag to help keep schmutz from getting into the jet. Also a good idea to read Roger Caffin’s review and learn how to remove that valve retainer pin so that it can be cleaned in the field should a clog develop, although that is extremely unlikely with a ‘topper’ stove/upright canister.
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