Topic

Jordan and Egypt–not exactly backpacking.

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
Paul Wagner BPL Member
PostedOct 21, 2024 at 9:42 am

I just spent almost three weeks there as a tourist. To answer the most basic questions:

1. Yes, I felt completely safe in both countries. Tourism was down 95% in Jordan, 60% in Egypt, and man, was everyone happy to see us!
2. Yes, we did this as part of an organized trip via Ama Waterways, so we were cared for to the point of coddling everywhere. Nice.
3. Yes, some people cancelled or postponed their trip, so instead of about 70 people on our ship, there were 31.
4. Yes, every archeology site, from Petra to the Pyramids, lived up to our expectations.
5. Yes, there were any number of sites that completely exceeded our expectations, such as Jerash in Jordan and the Qena temple of Hathor on the NIle.
6. No we didn’t get even a little bit sick–although we did used bottled water exclusively.

Whew. So that out of the way, here is a link to our report on the first couple of days in Amman.

http://www.backpackthesierra.com/post/jordan

I will get the other days up soon–planning a post every day through the end of the month.

Paul Wagner BPL Member
PostedOct 22, 2024 at 6:24 am

Hi Atif

Sorry to have missed you!  Do you live in Amman, or somewhere else?  I’m interested in the Jordan Trail…my daughter and I are looking for a new trail to hike, since we did the Camino Primitivo in Spain last year.

I was excited to see Wadi Rum, but the number of glamping resorts pretty much turned me off that destination.  What did I miss?

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedOct 22, 2024 at 7:47 am

That would have been cool to see places like Petra

You are very adventurous :)

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedOct 22, 2024 at 10:04 am

Thanks, those are amazing

I was just watching something about looking for graves nearby.

jscott Blocked
PostedOct 22, 2024 at 6:14 pm

“We toured the outside of the King Abdullah mosque (we were invited in, but M declined)…”

Oh, gosh, I would have loved to view and worship as best I could (or at east accompany worship) inside that Mosque! No judgement on M; and anyway, I wasn’t there. Travel is hard!

Petra is amazing. We in the West tend to think Greece alone had such sophisticated art and architecture.

thanks for your photos and words.

Atif Khan BPL Member
PostedOct 22, 2024 at 10:30 pm

Great pictures Paul! Yes, we are in Amman, the only major city. Would be happy to take you and your family out for dinner when you come next.

You are welcome back to Jordan anytime. We’ve completed the Jordan trail and would be happy to direct you to the most beautiful sections, depending on your preference for forest, wadi, or desert.

It’s a tourist’s paradise: an inexpensive, compact country with 7 major world heritage sites and numerous Christian, Jewish, and Muslim sites, including the baptism site of Jesus, peace be upon him. The people are very welcoming and crime is virtually zero. The weather is Mediterranean so beautiful pretty much year round. You can rent a car for about USD35/day or use the the JETT bus system (e.g. Amman to Aqaba is USD14).

Here is a suggested itinerary if you return to revisit some of the sights. If you have only one week and the gumption to see all the major attractions:

Day 1: Walk around Amman, especially the Citadel and amphitheater, and the narrow alleyways in the center of town, and see the Dead Sea Scrolls in the Jordan Museum. Visit the three big mosques by taxi: Mosque Husseini, Abu Darweesh, King Abdullah I. Eat grilled cuisine at Wild Jordan, overlooking the city.

Day 2: Drive via the Dead Sea to Petra (5 hours). On the way, picnic at the top of the rift valley overlooking the Jordan River and Palestine. Have dinner at any of the restaurants in Wadi Musa overlooking the gorges of Petra.

Day 3: Walk around Petra in the morning, visiting the Treasury and the Monastery. That afternoon drive down to Wadi Rum (1 hour), hire a camel and cameleer (USD50/day), and pitch camp just about anywhere. It’s all beautiful. This desert is less familiar by its name, but better known by the movies that have been filmed there (ie. Star Wars, Dune, The Martian, etc.) because of its unusual rocky outcrops and red sand.

Day 4: Walk around Wadi Rum in the morning and drive down to the coastal city of Aqaba (1 hour) in the afternoon for some snorkeling. There’s a great seafood restaurant named Al-Shami in front of the mosque at the center of town.

Day 5: Drive back to Amman (or take the JETT bus) and relax.

Day 6: Take a day trip to to the olive and oak forests of Ajloun and visit the stunning Ajloun castle, returning via Jerash to visit the Roman ruins, believed to be the largest site outside Italy.

Day 7: Sleep in!

Paul Wagner BPL Member
PostedOct 23, 2024 at 6:50 am

Thanks, Atif!

We did most of this on our trip. We didn’t ride a camel, and we didn’t make it to Aqaba, and we missed the Abu Darweesh mosque.  Jordan Museum was wonderful. Jerash was astonishing.  Of course we took a dip in the Dead Sea and slathered mud on ourselves. And we loved Petra, but didn’t make it to the Monastery. We agree that the scenery in Wadi Rum is something special…

Next time!

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedOct 23, 2024 at 9:36 am

Is it easier to float in the dead sea?

In fresh water, if I don’t do something, I’ll just sink.

PostedOct 23, 2024 at 1:39 pm

Is it easier to float in the dead sea?

In fresh water, if I don’t do something, I’ll just sink.

Apparently, yes; it’s saltier than seawater. I remember as a youngster watching a TV programme with the presenter reading a newspaper while floating on his back in the Dead Sea.

jscott Blocked
PostedOct 23, 2024 at 2:19 pm

I’m quoting myself below:

“Oh, gosh, I would have loved to view and worship as best I could (or at east accompany worship) inside that Mosque! ”

let me stipulate that I’m a practicing Christian. At the monastery where I worship, Muslims, Buddhists, Jews and other religions who wish to worship are welcome. The same is true at King Abdullah Mosque. I don’t know the formalities of Muslim worship, so I wouldn’t want to offend. Islam, like Judaism and Chritianity, is a monotheistic religion. All are sprung from the same root. Would that we all could greet each other with love–the fundamental aspect of that root.

p.s. at 70 years old, I can live without riding a camel. And I grew up riding horses.

Paul Wagner BPL Member
PostedOct 23, 2024 at 6:48 pm

Yeah, we were invited to visit the King Abdullah Mosque. It’s quite near the Fine Arts Museum, but we walked right by the tourist entrance without realizing it.  And then when we got to the other side, they told us we’d have to go back around again.  And it was really hot, and we were jetlagged, and M was not keen on the idea from the beginning.

The Grand Husseini Mosque, deep in the heart of Old Amman, is off-limits to non-Muslims. But it is also right next to the fruit and vegetable market, so we did get a good look at the outside!

I share your feelings about camel, J Scott!

Atif Khan BPL Member
PostedOct 23, 2024 at 10:46 pm

Yes, camels take some getting used to. I much prefer walking. One tip for traveling to Jordan (and slightly off-topic, but I think useful for North American travelers): Istanbul opened up a giant airport a few years ago that is a great hub for getting into Jordan; far more interesting than Dubai, the standard hub. On your next visit consider stopping in Istanbul for a few days: two countries for the price of one. And their mosques are open to visitors and are arguably the most beautiful in the world.

Paul Wagner BPL Member
PostedOct 24, 2024 at 8:07 am

I will be in Istanbul in October of next year, and I am really looking forward to it! Amazing city, with a remarkable role in world history—and one that is usually completely ignored by Western Europeans and Americans.

Jay B BPL Member
PostedMar 7, 2025 at 8:51 pm

Great reports!  I would like to hike some sections of the Jordan Trail next spring.  Do you or Atif have any advice on guide services and best time to do the hike.  Do you know how to contact Atif?

Atif Khan BPL Member
PostedMar 12, 2025 at 10:27 pm

Hi guys,

Pardon the delayed response. You can reach me at atif@ethica.institute

To your questions:

Best time: It is beautiful Mediterranean weather year round with a few weeks of rain in the winter that appear to have largely subsided for the year. I would recommend spring and fall for any part of the country, and winter, early spring, or late fall for Wadi Rum, Petra, and Aqaba.

Guides: You do not really need guides because the Jordan Trail website provides decent large scale contour maps. Camels are a nice addition for carrying water in Wadi Rum and Petra and the cameleer doubles as a guide.

Let me know when you are in town and I’ll take you out for dinner.

Regards,

Atif

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
Loading...