Topic

Hip belt fitting

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Adam Cassis BPL Member
PostedAug 2, 2018 at 11:49 am

<p style=”text-align: left;”>So I bought ago lite jam about 5 years ago, since which time I lost about 20 lbs. The hip belt no longer fits snugly to take weight off my shoulders. Any tips or tricks to help with fitting besides gaining weight</p>

James Marco BPL Member
PostedAug 2, 2018 at 2:28 pm

There are a couple things you can try. Generally, a lot will depend on what model you have 2010, 2012, etc. Some have smaller hip pockets than others. Some don’t have any. Some have thin frame sheets. There are a lot of differences in GoLite Jams.

Many people have the same problem, BTW. They didn’t leave enough adjustment for skinnier folks. This is a known problem with the 2012 models.

First try is to remove the hipbelt pocket in front of the belt area. Remove the belt and sew it back, under the area where the pocket used to go. Then sew the pocket back on. This should free up enough room for adjustemt of the belt to snug up on you, but it will be close, maybe right up to the pouch. This will sew through everything and many sewing machines do NOT like to do that.

Second try is to add a couple layers of padding as a frame sheet. That is, add(sew) a pad keeper pocket to the top and bottom extending about 6-7″ with stretchy mesh/elastic. Then insert a pad with 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 layers of padding. Each section will add about 1/2″ (depending on the pad chosen) to the thickness of the pack, essentially shortening the hip belt. Each section will also have some utility as sit pads, or, in 3, 4, 5 section pads function as a 30″, 40″, or 50″ sleeping pad, too. Some people have tied these in place with a few loops on the pack. The Jam does not have compression loops on the back, though so you are still looking at sewing these on, and, they are not as effective as a full pouch. Might be worth a try, though. The “egg-crate” pads work better for multiple nesting layers (fit, trim and tape these together in 10″x20″ sections.) The pad will also effect how the shoulder harness fits.

Third try, razor off the existing hip belt and resew a the hip belt on to fit your current weight. This is more extensive sewing to save what you can of the padding, hip pockets, and existing belt. Leave enough of the existing belt to sew onto! (At leas an inch.) Usually this means seam ripping the pocket off at that end to get at the heavier fabric/padding. Razoring a clean cut with a hot knife or the like to prevent unraveling. Cutting down the padding for clearance, and resewing it all back on, usually with a couple heavy duty bar tacks (but not so heavy duty you weaken the fabric.)

Forth try, you *might* be able to fold and sew through the hip belt mounts to the pack. This will be a b!tch to sew! But you can try to fold this area (usually a semi-circle) and sew it closed giving you about a 1/2″-3/4″ per side tighter belt. These tight quarters and the tight folds WILL be difficult! You will need to tease the padding out of the way.

Fifth try, if you decide against any of the above, you can simply razor it off about an inch-1-1/2″ from the semi-circle and sew on a new piece of 1-1/4″ or 1-1/2″ webbing. You can then get add-on pockets for mounting to the new belt. This will be quick and nasty, but, it will work. You will loose all the padding, though.

JCH BPL Member
PostedAug 2, 2018 at 5:01 pm

Have you considered adding something like the lumbar pad that ZPacks sells (scroll to near the bottom of the page)?  Any extra padding will reduce the circumference of the belt.

Viewing 3 posts - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
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