Gluing thin strip of tubular webbing to ripstop nylon for DIY daisy chain loop?

Shoe Goo or Seam Grip might work. I would recommend sewing it on if at all possible.

Yeah, sewing is good.

You could do hand stitches if you had no machine

And also glue it?

I’ve used fabric glue to hold something in place which I then sew on.  It makes the sewing easier and you’re not nicking yourself on pins that hold things together.

How about using actual calamari?  Then you could eat your pack as you go, reducing your base weight throughout the trip.

If you do this, you’ll be loading the glue bonds in peel, rather than shear. This is the wrong way to do bonding. Basically, your loops will want to roll in the direction of force.  If you’re dead set on gluing, glue the far half of the loop shut. This will shift the loading in to shear. Angle the top and bottom loops up and down a bit, respectively. The center line of the loop should bisect the angle of the lace through it. Again, this reduces the peel loading on the edges of the bond.

If it does fail, it’ll leave a glue marks on the pack. But then if you go back and sew them on in the same place, you’ll cover the marks. If you know anyone that can sew, this is a very simple favor to ask. Use polyester thread.

If you can accept a failure in the field, not much harm in gluing first. You’ll learn more than if you don’t.

Polyester thread?  I get that it’s better than cotton, but why not nylon thread?  Then it is as temperature- and chemically-resistant as the nylon fabric.

Polyester is the fiber of choice for shelters, quilts and clothing, and I thought packs as well.  Doesn’t rot or elongate when wet.

Is nylon preferred for some applications?

Rene, Nylon is lighter and/or stronger and is the first choice for lightweight shelters, quilts, clothing and packs. Basically, the two threads are identical except for nylon is stronger and polyester is less UV sensitive. Nylon can be manufactured in smaller thread sizes, though this is related to it’s strength and toughness. The typical 3.5% water absorption means a pound of nylon will absorb .035pounds of water at complete saturation or about .56oz. But, it was lighter than poly to begin with…close to 15% (or around 2.5oz/pound though some tests indicate closer to 30% in equivalent weights.) But, using the full material strengths means a more normal lightweight 3lb tent will actually weigh some 7.5oz more than the nylon one, less if using nylon-6 (similar to robic.)

UV resistance is unimportant since both suffer from UV damage. Nylon suffers more, but, was stronger to begin with at equivalent weights.  But, mostly, we will be camping in shaded or partially shaded areas. My tarp is still functional after ~12 years of continuous use (~30 nights per year)  for camping, though it has stretched and was rebuilt several years ago.

To me, it makes sense to use nylon thread for sewing onto nylon cloth. Normally, using poly thread, I have to use a looser stitch (about one click down) to maintain equivalencies in stretch between materials, especially on long stitches. Here, it doesn’t really matter. Both threads will work. But I agree that glueing alone could lead to failure. And it will likely be no stronger and heavier than simply sewing a daisy chain on. But again, I would consider the strength of the substrate material and use about a half to a one inch space at each end between loops with an “X” reinforcement to “grab” as much pack material as I could without creating score lines in the pack material.  This will be heavier in the end, but a good permanent mounting point.

After one trip I like polyester fabric better than nylon.

I tighten the tent stakes when I set the tent up and it’s still tight in the morning.  With nylon it sometimes stretches and sags inside by the morning, which is bad if there’s condensation.  Nylon stretches when it gets cold and/or wet.

It seems like the water shakes off the polyester better than nylon when I pack up.

I used 1 ounce/yd2 polyester which seems strong enough but I’ll know better after a few more trips.  Theoretically, 0.7 ounce/yd2 nylon fabric would be just as strong.  My tent is 10 square yards so nylon would save 3 ounces.  Saving 3 ounces is good.

Either nylon or polyester works good.  Most people use nylon.  Lightweight polyester is only recently available.

I use polyester thread for everything.  Feeds good through the machine.  Nylon is maybe more slippery which is bad – seams might become unraveled more?  I have some thick nylon thread I use a bit with a hand needle for reinforcing spots, like shoulder strap to pack or shoe repair.  When using polyester thread on nylon, the nylon stretches more, but since the polyester thread in a seam goes up and down, you can stretch the seam even though the thread doesn’t stretch so much.

Yeah, I usually use poly thread, too. But, ideals are ideals…

I like to think that they are passing on the 50% manufacturing cost savings to consumers. But, I bet’ha they are are just pocketing most of it. There isn’t a lot of difference between them, other than strength per weight. They both need treatments to be waterproof, they both stand up to abrasion, they both can be dyed, they both are susceptible to UV, etc…