Glacier NP August 2016 Planning

Check out the Hole-in-the-wall route: http://missoulian.com/explore/hole-in-the-wall-loved-for-its-beauty/article_89fd4738-ae54-11e0-b8e6-001cc4c002e0.html

The weather in August is generally beautiful, but there is always a chance for severe weather so plan accordingly. Bugs can be an issue. It really depends on the year. It generally cools down enough at night for the bugs to be a non-issue but the daytime can be a another story. In the backcountry of Glacier you will be camping in designated spots only, so keep that in mind. Start applying for permits in March, do not delay: http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/backcountry-reservations.htm

The trails are generally good but some parts of Glacier only really open up in late July and early August so the trails can be sloppy this time of year and snow on the trail is likely. Again, it depends on the year. It may turn out to be a good winter so there may be a fair amount of snowpack this year.

You’ll need bear spray which, if you’re flying in, can be purchased almost anywhere in and around the park.

Fishing in Glacier is free, so enjoy! Just be sure to follow all regs: http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/upload/Fishing-2015-Web.pdf

Early August in the Glacier backcountry is very busy.  You won’t necessarily see a ton of folks on the trail, but the backcountry campgrounds will be full.  I highly, highly recommend mailing in an advanced application. (http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm)  You might get a decent route walk-in, but I would not count on it.

In most places most of the time bugs aren’t an issue in August.  If the snow is late in melting a few of the more sheltered and higher elevation sites can have pretty bad mosquitoes.  Tarps are a fine option, but it’s probably smart to have some kind of backup bug option.

My first recommendation for a route would be a loop starting and ending in Many Glacier, via Swiftcurrent Pass, Stoney Indian Pass, and the Ptarmigan Tunnel.  Awesome alpine scenery, plenty of waterfalls, and some decent fishing in the Belly River area.  A few summit scrambles along the way, too.  This is a very desirable route and getting a permit for it depends on where your application ends up in the permit stack.  Easy logistics as it’s a loop.

Second recommendation would be going from St Mary to Two Med, or vice versa, via the Red Eagle Lake trail and CDT.  Good alpine and summit access, slightly less in demand.  A pay shuttle can get you from one end to the other.

Thank you both for the advice! I value your opinions, and the routes all look amazing….deciding will be difficult! We are hoping to do 8-10 miles a day for 3-4 days, so I’m not sure if we would be able to cover the distance required for the Many Glacier loop, I will look into it for sure though. Hole in the Wall looks absolutely amazing, but is the rest of the NW corner worth it (as opposed to the Many Glacier or Logan’s Pass area)?

I can’t wait to fish….going to take the tenkara rod and try and catch some backcountry trout! Swimming would be a lot of fun too, but I’m sure the water is ice cold year-round.

My main concern is definitely the bugs, but I figure we will treat everything with permethrin, and check bug reports before we go so we can potentially pick up last-minute bug nets.

Feel free to PM me with any questions you have as you get closer to your trip. I spend a lot of time in Glacier and will try to help you the best I can.

The last ~mile of trail in either direction heading up towards Browns Pass, and the stretch going through HITR up through Boulder Pass is all exceptional alpine terrain.  However, you’re obliged to go through quite a few miles of less spectacular forested terrain to get there, especially if going up via either the Bowman or Kintla drainages.

THs on the east side of the park have a higher starting elevation and usually get you into the alpine with less time and effort.

Doing 8-10 miles will limit your options as most campsites are that far apart.  But you’ll manage.

My article for a few years ago will give you more ideas and details.

Joshua, I did Glacier last August. David Chenault gave me awesome advice. I definitely give the thumbs up to the Ptarmigan tunnel and Stoney Indian pass (Its Gorgeous). I heard “meh” stuff about the Brown’s pass route. It’s good but there’s better.

I normally prefer peaks and alpine country, but I have to say glacier gave me a newfound respect for camping next to lakes. the campsites at Elizabeth and Stoney Indian pass were amazing. I definitely recommend orienting your glacier trip around “lake bagging” instead of peak bagging. The fisherman around me seemed to be reeling in a good quantity too. I would definitely try my hand.

Beta offered: East side was reportedly better than west glacier for backpacking. West has some cool peaks though. I didn’t find much for supplies within 1-2 hours of the park so stock up on groceries in greatfalls or w/e you fly in. Favorite campsites were elizabeths lake, stoney indian campsite, and fifty mountain. Granite campsite went dry last year (no water) and offered zero views (possible forest fire smoke just obscured).

Bear bell- I don’t usually advocate these dork alerts, but glacier trails had a ton of undergrowth samplings along the narrow trails. Really poor visibility for both you and the bears. Seemed like it would be really easy to accidently sneak up on a bear. I mitigated this by clicking my trekking polls together before dense portions but a bear bell here would honestly help so you didn’t have to worry about clapping.

Also don’t be fooled by google maps. The “towns” next to the park are pretty much just gas stations. Pick up any supplies you need in greatfalls or w/e you fly in at. Last cell phone reception on the way in is at the blackfeet indian reservation, in case you need to check in with family or gfs (whoops!).

If you need more to do. It’s a long drive but the beaten path in south Montana looked great. I ended up cutting that out because of unknowns with forest fires last year but I was immediately scolded by a Montana girl who said I missed out.

hike734.com may be of help, it has an interactive map of all of glacier that you can click around on all the different trails and get commentary and pictures of the different routes… I believe he posts his trips on youtube as well.

EDIT:  here is a sample link to the stoney indian pass section: https://www.hike734.com/trip/stoney-indian-pass/

I had no bug issues last August, just picked a route I could do.  The Park messed my email addy up, so when I went to send another reservation as I had not heard back and the fax at work was on the fritx now and then, it was denied, but at least they called and left a message.  So when I called, I was able to straighten things out.  Had a shorter trip due to another party cancelled on me and I made faster travel time then I thought I could do.  No snow year, saw no grizz, did not need bear spray, fishing was fair at Kootenai Lakes.  I have good luck picking out lakes to stay at or routes, suggested book was not much use to me.  I’d like to go again.  If traversing thru the Park, start early to avoid traffic.  Not many spots to pass.  Rain a few days lightly.  I had dry socks about 30 minutes the whole five days and nights.  Beautiful foliage, but when it rains, it all droops down over the trail.  I went in at Packers Roost.

Duane

Thank you all again for the great advice!

Ethan, I will probably send you a PM as our trip gets closer (or maybe before the backpacking application deadline to see what you think of the decided itinerary)

Craig: Thanks for the advice about “lake-bagging”, I definitely wouldn’t mind doing an alpine scramble on one day, but maybe it would be better to make that a day hike and plan the backpacking trip around water.

Aaron: I didn’t know anything about hike734.com….awesome resource I have been pouring over for the past 24 hours.

Duane: Good to hear about the bug issues, I’m really hoping we can avoid them, but obviously it will depend on this year’s snow pack and how late it melts.

So as far as using a tarp…I know the back country in GNP is limited to designated sites, do these sites drain well or will I have issues with soaking wet ground (in the case we get unlucky and run into extended periods of rain)? Obviously we will each have ground sheets, but I’m a little bit concerned about not being able to choose our own site, and getting stuck in some mud hole.

Josh,

Regarding your last question on campsites.

One site was actually fine gravel. The rest were dirt with limb circles around. May be year dependent but was very dry. The ones near the lakes were typically right above a slope so they’d drain well. In late august, it snowed 1 day I was there. No rain at elevation the rest of the trip.

Warning- The deer there are notorious salt thieves. They will drag packs/trekking poles, anything sweaty away from the camp and chew on it for the salt. I normally hang my pack but kept mine inside the tent to keep the deer off. Even in the vestibule, the deer practically pulled out my tent stake to pull my pack out. I’ve chased black beers off with less effort. I’ve never had this problem in Co, Az, or east coast. For this reason, if you use a tarp I’d suggest you use use a hexamid or something closed off. An A- frame tarp for example will require more vigilance.

A couple guys I met got away with cowboy camping the whole week but they had to pretty much always have somebody by the gear. A tent might be the safest, but a hexamid tarp might be adisable too a normal A frame tarp.

cheers,

Most of the sites drain pretty well.  With a tarp in August dust is more of an issue than mud, but it is possible to get a bunch of rain and get stuck with the worst tent pad at a given area.  Not very likely, but possible.

The deer can be a nuisance.  Do not leave your trekking poles unattended at night.