Gila Wilderness – West and Middle Fork Planning Advice?

[Benjamin N]

I’m planning a 4-day / 3-night, or possibly 3-day / 2-night although that sounds aggressive, hike through the Gila Wilderness on the West and Middle Fork. I saw this on AllTrails and was thinking something like it (https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/new-mexico/west-fork-trail-12-and-middle-fork-loop). We’re planning to go at the end of October.

I’m wondering a few things:

-How long should I anticipate this taking? Last year I easily did Timberline Trail (41 mi) in 3.5 days and probably could’ve done it in 3. For this trip, I’m hiking with my partner and we most recently did a very hilly 33 miles (13 mi, 17 mi, 3 mi) over 2.5 days / 2 nights, but I’m thinking with Gila possibly being more difficult to find our way (about that in a second), lots of water crossings, and not wanting to push ourselves too hard to probably plan for closer to 4 days and allow ourselves easier days 1 and 4.

-How difficult is it finding your way around? I plan to get a topo map, but some trail reports mention people still having a hard time. It seems to be mostly in slot canyons though, so I figure that should help keep me generally on the right path. I did Bandelier National Monument last spring and Capulin Canyon wasn’t well marked, but we found our way through.

-How are the flies and mosquitoes? It’s pretty late in the season, but still wanna plan ahead.

-Any other advice or suggestions for can’t-miss spots and sights in Gila are welcome! Thanks in advance!

[Benjamin N]

Additional thought: advice about bears? I have a bear canister (BV500), but if they aren’t that common, I would consider just hanging a bear bag to cut out the weight. Also, is there anywhere to rent bear spray? I’m flying into Albuquerque, so I can’t bring any. I might go to REI and then just return it when done.

[Joe G]

Did an out-and-back on the Middle Fork in August 2020.  Went about 15 miles upriver.  At that time there were a few older blowdowns we had to go over/around but nothing major.  Overall the trail was easy to follow between the worn down areas in the vegetation and the cairns on the open, rocky areas.  NM has received quite a lot of rain this summer so vegetation may be higher than normal. We did the 30-ish miles over five days but were really taking our time.

If you are coming down the middle fork, there is a hot spring at Jordan Canyon that I highly recommend soaking in.  Once you are off trail stop at Doc Campbell’s Post for snacks and a shower (assuming you don’t have other plans.)

Definitely a lot of water crossings on the Middle Fork, can’t speak to the West Fork.  When I was there the crossings weren’t bad (maybe knee deep and pretty slow moving at the worst) but don’t expect dry feet the entire time you’re hiking the trail.  Not a huge amount of bugs that I can recall, and mosquitos love me.

We didn’t see any bear sign in 2021.  We did hang bear bags every night, did not bring bear spray (and that is with one of the party being extremely bear averse.)

Good luck and enjoy!

[HkNewman]

If planning some sort of loop, the Gila’s West Fork isn’t as traveled as the Middle but plenty of hikers still hike it.    The West Fork is spectacular too, but not as much as the Middle, so more pics pop up for the latter I’m guessing.

I’d go upstream on the West Fork since it’s a bit drier and then choose how you want to cut across the mesa towards the Middle Fork in a sharp edged loop, especially the water situation, what’s realistic miles egressing up out of the west fork going over mostly the grasslands and oak/pine forests of the mesa (assuming that hasn’t burnt since I left).

The middle fork has more flow so I recommend that as a downriver/back to the visitor center hike.  Your feet will get wet but theres Jordan hot springs, plus a water fountain/picnic tables at the visitor center.

[John “Jay” Menna]

We did that route plus a bit more just over a year ago.    There is a trip report here on BPL.

Your proposed route misses the prettiest section of the middle fork!    see: https://caltopo.com/m/1ARC

Also the middle fork. east of The meadows  (Jordan Hot Springs) can be full of drunk party boys/girls on the weekends.

 

[John “Jay” Menna]

Found it: https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/5-days-in-the-gila-new-mexico/

[Mart]

The end of October could be pretty cold.

~Mart

[David Sugeno]

That should be a great time for the Gila.  As mentioned, it could be cold.  I hiked up the middle fork in November some years back, I wore Chacos with neoprene socks the whole time and did fine.  Something similar will probably be in order for your trip, because whatever the air temps are like, the water is likely to be quite cold.  I can’t imagine you’ll have any issue with mosquitoes that time of year.  I was there right after a major flooding event, so the trails were difficult to follow in some areas, but still not too bad.  But the crossings will definitely slow you down a bit.  My only other piece of advice would be to take some hunter orange with you, as this will be during deer and elk season.

[Benjamin N]

Thanks for all of the advice and information, everyone! Does anyone know what map I should purchase for this trip and if I can easily purchase them in person vs ordering through mail? The Gila National Forest website (link below) says there is the Gila National Forest Map with hiking details, the Gila Wilderness Map with contour intervals, and then some Topographic Wilderness Maps only available in person. I can’t preview any of them, but I’m hoping for something with all the trails marked and sufficient topo information. Sounds like the “Gila National forest Map” is the way to go, but I’m not sure.

https://www.fs.usda.gov/main/gila/maps-pubs

[HkNewman]

The Gila Wildnerness FS topo map should be all you need for the major trails (it’ll have mostly brown elevation lined .. plus there’ll be a east side which you will use and a west side .. most which got burnt).   REI at least used to sell them as the Gila is a nationwide attraction, but you can also call the Visitor Center gift shop.  If driving in from Silver City the main ranger station may sell them too.  Still check out the visitor center near where the forks meet as they have (or least had) a large computer monitor with all the weather fronts that may impact your trip.  Also a cool Native history exhibit if you have time.

Once you get into the Middle Fork and all the crossings hikers tend to look at where previous hikers have gone if there’s any flood damage … though in the clearer areas it’ll be surprisingly easy (a trail cutting through the grass on the opposite bank).   Worst case is keeping hiking downstream and you’ll go near civilization.   Besides year-round backpackers, there’s year-round day hikers too.

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