Getting Started With MYOG (Sewing machines and other equipment needed)

[Christos K]

Hey MYOG Community

I hope everyone is keeping busy with their on projects!

I was trying to find any previous relevant threads on the topic, but it is quite hard without a search option. I am quessing someone else must have already asked the same or similar question, I hope this does cause any problems.

I am thinking of making my first steps torwards setting up a small workshop for myself so I can start making things and experiment.

I would love to find good sources where I can read more info regarding the sweing machines that are needed in order to be able to make a few staff.

For example, I am thinking to start kind of basic to give it a try, but I would love to be able to experiment not only with clothing, but also shelters, and things like sleeping bags/quilts.

As long as I know, more than one sweing manchine is needed for specific applications such as different kinds of stictchings/finishing and fabric material etc. Please correct if I am wrong.

However, what will be the bare minimum that will allow me to be able to get my hands dirty with MYOG?

I am looking to find out which types of machines are needed and why etc. Moreover, reccomendations on anything MYOG, sweing courses or videos, brands to look for regarding threads & needles etc will also be welcome.

Could someone point me in the right direction? It will be highly appriciated!

I am based in the UK at the moment if this helps, but in case I cannot find something I will turn to EU or US etc.

Thanks a loot! Keep Sweing!

Chris

[Claiborne B]

There is a library of videos on YouTube for beginning sewing including ideas, reviews, and suggestions on machines.

The one thing you’ll need the most in the beginning is patience and a good seam ripper.

You’ll need to have a good idea on how your sewing machine works. So I would buy cheap or scrap material and practice sewing.. I would recommend starting with small projects like stuff sacks and zippered bags, before attempting  larger projects.

A few materials you’ll need are sewing machine ofcource, seam ripper, sewing pencils, sharp scissors for fabric only, fabric, tape measure, ruler, self healing cutting pad, clips, and head pins.

I use a Singer 9960. It has worked well for all my stuff sacks, reuseable grocery bags, a backpack shoulder pocket, a couple of quilts, a bivy, a mesh summer bivy, and a duomid sized pyramid tent. I also use it to repair gear, patch ripped pants legs and reinforce clothing seams. This one is pricey, but I wanted a quilting machine, its not really needed and you can find much cheaper machines with a similar function.

I mostly buy material online from ripstopbytheroll.com or dutchwaregear.com . Locally we have a few stores for sewing like Joanns Fabric that carries more traditional materials.

 

[John Dallas]

If need to buy a sewing machine, I suggest finding a sewing machine repair shop and buy a used machine from them. They will probably have someone that can give you basic advice and maybe a free lesson.

I assume you want to make things with something like Silpoly. However, I made a tarp/poncho out of super light Dyneema and used sealing tape (Dyneema® Composite Fabric Double-Sided Adhesive Tape). There was no sewing at all. It worked great. I made something lighter than anything on the market.
I am an ultralight backpacker.  I am fairly extreme ultralight backpacker because of knee and back issues. So while there is a bigger market in the lightweight gear, there is a market for ultralight weight gear. Others may give more advice about potential market and competition.  And the difference between light weight, ultralight, ultra ultralight is a manner of opinion.
Have fun. John

[Diane “Piper” Soini]

I bought a 1960’s era Pfaff sewing machine from an estate sale. It does as much as I’m able to do. I also just got some really good serrated shears. Wow, what a difference. I have cut all kinds of stuff with nothing more than a really super sharp pair of what looks almost like kids scissors.

Tools that I have for sewing include sewing machine (with all the feet and bobbins and things), thread (I find a lot of thread at thrift stores), various scissors, seam ripper (which is now broken), pins, needles (I’ve made a lot of things sewing by hand), and I have stuff for leather including awls, stitching awls, utility knife, artificial sinew. I’ve found masking tape to be useful, as well as sharpies, ballpoint pens, a lighter, pliers and screwdrivers.

The one thing I do not have that I wish I had was a large space with a large flat durable surface to work on. Something that I could not cut, scratch or poke a hole in by accident.

[John Dallas]

I now see your info. You probably know a lot more about this stuff than I do. Best to you finding the space.

Best to you on this hobby, part time job, career…

I look forward to getting over injuries and getting back on the trail.

John

[Sam Farrington]

Diane,

A fold-up ping-pong (aka table tennis) table. Best deal was from Walmart.  Best table was in the local classified ads.

[Matt]

I’ve made a ton of UL backpacks and sacks on my Singer Heavy Duty 4411 Sewing Machine.  I pair it up with Guterman Mara 70 thread and Schmetz Needles.  It was my first set-up … but if it ain’t broke, why fix it.

Dyneema is expensive material.  But it is SO much easier to work with.  Well worth the cost in my opinion, especially for newbies.

Best advice I ever got … Sew slow!  What’s the rush?

Good luck!

[Diane “Piper” Soini]

A ping-pong table sounds pretty clever but where would I put it? I do have a glass coffee table top that I used to use in my apartment a long time ago. I plan to haul that out and put it on my bed whenever my order finally arrives from RSBTR.

[Jerry Adams]

I use a Janome machine.  My wife bought it years ago but never used it.  I have done many projects with it.  Its not made anymore but they have others similar.

All I need is a zigzag of adjustable width, and sometimes I do buttonholes which that Janome does easily.  The only problem is sewing through foam for a shoulder or waist belt on a pack.

Newer machines (30 years?) don’t need as much maintenance.  I remember my mom used to clean and oil maybe 20 points on her machine.  (which maybe I broke making a tent).

I just use my Janome.  Maybe vacuum/brush out lint.

yeah, “go slow, what’s the rush”.  If you were sewing for money you’d want to go fast.

[Bob Chiang]

Hi Chris,

I second the recommendation to buy a used sewing machine from a repair shop.  An older machine with all metal gears and no electronic controls can make beautiful, consistent, reliable stitches for almost any MYOG sewing project.  It is true that there are a lot of oil points!  Some friends with newer (low cost) machines seem to have trouble with tangled threads and adjusting presser foot tension that I don’t have.

Over 90% of my stitching: multiple layers of pack cloth and webbing for back packs,  10 denier nylon for quilts, and silicone coated fabrics, is sewn on a Singer model 221 that was built in 1948.  This machine is doing 100% of the stitches for my latest project, a box baffled down parka.

The other 10% of my sewing is zigzag, and serging.  Most machines will do zigzag stitching.  Serging requires a specific machine and is useful but not essential for some clothing seams.  Hmmm, I just found this video that shows how new sewing machines can finish edges similar to a serger, so it’s even less essential now : )  So buy a machine that can make zigzag stitches and you will be able to sew just about any outdoor gear or clothing project.

I also agree that a large table is helpful. A quilters table is built at a nice height for work while standing, and can be collapsed for storage.

The wheel cutter, straight edge, and cutting mat are great for some fabrics. More often I use a hot knife to cut synthetic nylon and polyester fabrics, and also webbing and cords. It helps prevent the edges from fraying and unraveling.  The tool I have is actually made for wood burning, a small soldering iron can also work.

A cloth tape is useful for measuring along curves or around circumferences.  Chalk is often used for marking because it can be removed from the fabric.  I often use a pair of tweezers and small scissors to trim thread ends. Strong lightning helps and I sometimes wear a headlamp while sewing!  Quilters clamps are an alternative to pins for some applications.

Welcome to a new hobby/addiction  ; )  and

Have Fun,

Bob

PS.  If you want to sew fast, buy yourself an industrial sewing machine, but watch your fingers!!!

[John S.]

https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/

[Alan W]

Following.

[Christos K]

Hey CLAIBORNE B,

Thanks for taking the time to reply to me.

First let me wish everyone a great new year with lots of learning, growth, adventure and fun.

I will start small you are right and then I will progressively try bigger projects. I am not planning to rush things out. I am here to learn and love the process.

As you said I will experiment first with small projects such as stuff sags and other small zipper projects.

I have also thought of trying small dyneema projects just to get the taste of how the fabric works (a lot of times they do not need any sewing)

My mum has a old Mercedes machine that she bought years ago (about 20 years) but never really used.

Last time I was in Cyprus, I went straight and dug it out of the storage and put it to test. It worked fine, so I am thinking of shipping it over to the UK to start cheap. Nothing wrong with it. They only thing I am thinking about is whether I will need any of the new technologies that came along later in the sewing world (if they have actually). In case I wont and also taking into consideration that an old machine might be built better than a new in some ways, then I see no reason of not using it.

You can see the machince here and let me know what do you think. I think it should be more than enough to start with.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EsFx4VuyjlorsBIbRIiq-UVg1XXaiSC5/view?usp=sharing

Now regarding material I guess my choice will be https://www.extremtextil.de/. If I cant find what I want I will head to ripstopbytheroll and dutchware gear.

Once again thanks soo much!

[Christos K]

Hey John Dallas,

 

Thank for your effort as well!

Yes you are right I will start with fabrics like, Silpoly or other ripstop material.

How was making a tart/poncho with dyneema? Did you make the patterns yourself? or did you find them online from opensource sources?

Once again thanks for your effort and it is great to see people getting out even with physical limitations/issues. Well done!

 

Chris

[Christos K]

Hey Diene Sioni,

Thanks again for your effort to reply!

It seems that except for the machine, the rest of the tools are not going to be super expensive to start with.

Yeah you are right the big island table looks like an important part of any sweing project in all small to large cottage workshops I have seen!

I do have some space here but my desk is not made with something I can cut on mindfree, but I will figure that out on the way.

I always wonder if people make their own patterns or find some kind of basic design and then change it till it fits their needs?

I always thought that the good old reverse engineer method will work.

For example,

Find an old fleece piece (or one you like a lot and works) and start breaking it down to its different pattern pieces.

Copy these onto paper or even the fabric material you are going to use and then stictch together again.

This is one way but I am guessing there must be more ways and everyone will work in different ways.

Thanks for the list of tools I will note those down for future reference.

Chris

[Christos K]

Hey Matt,

 

Thanks for your effort to reply.

I always try to take the long, not so easy way to learning things.

I am here to learn how to make great stuff and not another piece. Hopefully my creations will live up to my expectations one day :p !

Yeah you are right, I always thought that Dyneema is the new fabric of the industry  which sounded like kind of needing advance knowledge to work with, but really doesnt to some extend due the bonding capabilities.

Thanks for your advice!

Chris

[Christos K]

Hey Jerry Adams,

Thanks for your effort!

So what do you use zigzag for ? attaching one piece to another?

The one thing I was worrying whether my mum’s machine will do, is sewing through thick matrials as you said. How can I find out what the capabilities of a sewing machince are ? I am not sure if I will be able to find some kind of manual that came with the machine after so many years. Maybe a digital version online?

Old machines (need a bit more care) VS New machines (need less maintainance and probably brake up more easily). This is so true a lot of times with all kinds of machines that were made back in the days of good old craftsmanship.

Thanks for your advice!

Chris

 

[Christos K]

Hey Bob Chiang,

Thanks for your effort to contribute to this threat.

If the machine I currently have can do what I want to do, I am willing to move on with it and spare the cash that was gonna go to a new machine on fabric and other materials needed.

So what type of stiching you use for the 90% that you have mentioned ?

What will be an alternative route to serging if your machine cannot do it or do not have a serging specific machine?

Yeah the table I had in mind from the start, as it will make my life soooo much easier and more enjoyable.

I will note all the great tools you have mentioned as well.

Aw it definetely is addiction and a hobby !

Could you please check the photo of the sewing machine I currently have, and let me know if it will be capable of doing the majority of projects you have mentioned above to start with?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EsFx4VuyjlorsBIbRIiq-UVg1XXaiSC5/view?usp=sharing

I have a feeling it will be more than enought for me, just from what I can see of its functions. It kind of looks a bit like an industrial machine if I am not wrong!

Thanks

 

Chris

[James Marco]

Christos K, You have a lot of good advise so far. Let me sort of change the focus. Patterns are fairly essential. If not patterns, then the ability to form two pieces so you can sew them together. I assume you have three pair of scissors (various sizes), seam rippers (in two sizes), clamps/pins, etc. Wander through a quilt shop and look at all the tools. “Do you need a rivet set?” for example. Or, a chalk line (blue and yellow) for long straight lines.

Making patterns is a lot like sheet metal lay-out. I would highly recommend a drafting class and lay-out class. Never forget the seams (add a 1/4″-1/2″ for seams.) “Square” can be a treasonous. Equal Diagonals, 3-4-5 Rule(forms a square triangle), calculations by Pythagoras’ Rules, A long chain with a pencil/tack for circles and arcs, Some basic geometry & trig mathematics(calculus helps), and so on. There is a lot of hidden knowledge to “sewing.” A basic sheetrock “square” is very handy to have. Anyway, my two cents…

[David Chenault]

Lots of ways to go with respect to sewing machines.  I will say that a Sailrite LSZ-1 does everything one will ever need when it comes to making packs or shelters.  If it fits the budget having a burly machine and walking foot with save much frustration early on.

If you have the space, a big cutting/layout table is a very nice thing to have.  I made mine from a full 4×8 foot sheet of plywood, and I occasionally wish it was 5 feet wide.  It is out on an unconditioned sun porch, so working in the winter involves bundling up, but having that much space to work is worth it.

I use a quilters ruler (24″ by 6″ grid), chalk marker, and rotary cutter, rather than scissors.  If you alter your designs often or do a lot of one-of projects (as I do) this system makes things move along nicely.

[Jerry Adams]

zigzag is used for bar tacks – to attach a nylon webbing tent stake loop to the tent

ideally, with thin fabric, you shouldn’t put two holes closer than a mm or two so it doesn’t weaken that fabric, so a loose bar tack.  Maybe I’m being overly paranoid : )

button holes use a zigzag.  My Janome does button holes semi automatically.

the seam along the ridge of a mid is along the bias so it stretches a lot.  I’ve had the thread in seams break, especially at the bottom.  So I’ve used a zigzag for that.  Except a better technique is to sew on a strip along the ridge, then it won’t stretch and break the thread.  And the tent doesn’t flap as much in the wind, the reason for doing this.  I haven’t heard anyone else confirm this though.

If you sewed elastic, that would stretch and break the thread but a zigzag would fix that

I don’t think you can get from a manual whether a machine will sew a particular thickness, you just have to try it or ask someone else.  A heavy duty machine may sew thicker better, but it may not sew thinner fabric as good and/or be much more expensive

I had a shoulder strap through 1/4″ foam.  I couldn’t get machine to sew through it.  So I sewed fabric into a tube, put the foam into the tube, and then just did a few hand stitches to keep it in place.

Or do a few hand stiches to keep it aligned, then used Seam Grip to keep the entire length in place.  Kind of annoying to have to wait for it to try.  Okay for a couple short lengths.

Occasionally, the machine motor won’t go through but you can rotate it by hand.  I think I broke my mom’s machine making a tent in ~1970.  I hope I paid her back with good deeds : )

[Jerry Adams]

I looked at the MYOG redit.  That is like a firehose of information.  Way more than here.

For example, someone asked here about skipping loops on a stitch.  Roger identified that it’s because the foot is lifting up.  If you hold down the foot it can prevent this.  Redit had the same question and answer.

[John Dallas]

Chris,

I looked at everything online that were similar that I could find. I watched an excellent video on making things with Dyneema about 5 times.  I watched every similar video . I looked at sizes of other ponchos on the market. Nothing showed gave me an actual pattern.  Nothing was like I wanted it. There were no videos on Dyneema and ponchos or tarps that I could find.
Then I did my own thing.  I tested on a small piece the taping.    I figured the biggest poncho size that would comfortably fit me.  Then I ordered the material and went for it.
One tough question was what do you do to keep the hood from being a place where water comes in when used as a tarp.  What others had done were very heavy solutions.  I came up with my own design, just using the Dyneema.   It worked great on the trail as a poncho.  It tested well as a tarp at home but only had it as an emergency on the trail so never used it. I was very pleased.
John

[Jerry Adams]

I like to figure out things myself also

That exercise is enjoyable.  If I used a pattern I wouldn’t have the experience of figuring it out.

[Bob Chiang]

Hi Christos,

Almost all sewing on my gear and clothing is “straight” stitching, even though it might follow a curved line.  I use zigzag stitches as Jerry has described: for seams that are designed to stretch.  For seams that should be allowed to stretch a small amount, you can use a straight stitch set to a moderately long length, and physically extend the seam as you sew it.

I use two main methods to reinforce joints between webbing and fabric.  I simulate a bar tack by straight stitching forward and back several times, slightly offsetting each line laterally.  More often I sew a box X  pattern (or multiple box X’s).

I sometimes use a serging machine to sew seams and panels of clothing together, especially for materials that stretch, like fleece.  The serger stitches allow stretch and result in a semi-finished edge.  Chances are you can see serged seams if you look at unlined fleece clothing, the seams are bound with a chain of looped threads.

You can do something similar with a zigzag stitch by zigzaging along the edge of a seam.  I would not buy a serger for what I do.  I’m just lucky that my wife allows me to use hers  ; )

If your machine operates properly, I think it should be able to sew all sorts of clothing and gear projects.

Have Fun,

-Bob

 

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