Extra Wide Foam Folding Mat?

Evazote(?) CCF is available in a variety of width/lengths from MLD in 1/8 and 1/4” thickness. You can score it with a hot knife or soldering iron so that it folds better. I don’t think it will give you a ton of stiffness if you are after load transfer.

Thanks Matthew. I’ve seen those and gossamer’s hammock pad. I’d like the rigidity of the folding pad. Ideally I’d do a U-shape fold (back panel and two sides) inside the pack. I figure that boxy shape would give the pack more rigidity as a frame with load lifters.

Trying to go for a duel purpose. I already have an xlite, so I’m not replacing my pad, just planning on supplementing it for protection. I don’t care what anyone says, 0.7 mil polycro isn’t a lot of protection for an air pad. Neither is 1.5 mil. I shredded that pretty easy in GCNP.

Alternatively, I know some people put their ridgerest or CCF roll inside the pack. The ridgerest does come in a wide size (25″), but I don’t like the rolled pads. Too bulky for me personally.

I wonder If I could combine two pieces of a zlite butted up together with either carbon tent pegs or short arrow shafts (smaller diameter?) working as dowels…

Maybe cut up one or two Zlites and place them sideways underneath you. If needed, connect the pieces with Velcro tabs on each piece, bridged with a longer Velcro strap.

— Rex

Also this, combined with extra-wide blue foam equivalent:

http://www.rayjardine.com/ray-way/Sleeping-Pad-Kit/index.htm

— Rex

You could look for a used Thermarest Z-shield…I think they were 24 inches wide.

https://www.foamorder.com/foam/eva.html
They have a 40″x80″ variable thickness foam sheets available.

About 20 years ago I explored the “U” shape as a possible more efficient pad that would also support loads. It works well but it takes up a LOT of volume in the pack.

Generally, for a pack that is 12″x6″x25″ this yields a 2′ length. Doubling the standard 1/2″ thickness only gives you about a 4′ length, and so on. (Discounting the joint loss which would be about 1″ per layer.) The 1/2″ evazote pads do help with pack loads up to about 30pounds with three layers (roughly a 58″ length.) At about 25pounds the CCF starts to collapse and at 30 pounds looses a lot of rigidity despite the corners. Each layer tends to slip against the other causing overall support problems.

The obsolete GG Nightlight pads worked far better since these were dimpled pads. When nested together they work out to a half inch per two layers. The nested bumps lock into each other forming a single relativly rigid structure. But, these were only about 20″ wide. A simple duct-tape joint works well after the layers are cut and aligned. I usually carry a 2, 3, or 5 layer pad (24″, 37″, or ~52″.) The joints open up a bit allowing a bit of extra length, roughly about 3/4″ per joint. The tape stays pretty well for around 5-10 years. The Evazote people might have some of this around iff you ask.

The volume for the pad at 1/2″x25″x58″ is 725ci. In comparison, a standard food bag is 8″dia x 10″length is around 500ci. So the pad will take up the volume equivalent in the neighborhood of one and a half food bags…a LOT. The internal pads don’t work real well because it requires a larger and heavier pack for the internal volume. A typical Murmur looses the capacity to the point of becoming a long weekend pack rather than a two week pack. So, besides the weight of the pad you also need a larger backpack increasing overall packing weight. In it’s simplest form, the least materials in a pack will weigh less, therefore smaller packs weigh less. (Generally speaking that is. Often the manufacturers do not use the same materials, soo things can get a lot more complicated than that.)

As far as the mechanics of walking goes, the human body requires a torsional twist at the back and an oblong (lift, rotate, repeat) from your hips. While the required internal structure you describe lets this happen, it also tugs the pack up with each step. After several miles on the trail, the pack itself will feel uncomfortable since there is no allowance for twisting the entire pack…only lifting at the corners against your back as you lift your leg to make each step. To allow any torsional twist only a flat ‘back’ panel works letting this to happen with no resistance from the pack weight. The “U” shaped support structure actually interferes with walking a little, making things rather uncomfortable after several miles, regardless of the load lifters.

Anyway, give it a try. Maybe you can figure out a way to create some flexible side panels and still maintain good resistance to pack collapse.

I looked at the foam link and came up with a plan—imagine sleeping on a 4 inch thick EVA pad—I bet it could be used as a completely stand alone pad for winter camping and would provide both warmth and some real comfort.  Only costs $288 ouch.

Then again, what would a 4 inch thick by 40 inch wide by 80 inch long pad look like strapped to a pack?  Probably like a tractor tire.  And weight?  Who knows.

Here ya go. The Field and Stream Folding Camp Pad is 23″ X 71.” I haven’t seen them anywhere except Dick’s Sporting Goods. $19.99. Weight isn’t listed.

https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/field-and-stream-folding-camp-pad-17fnsufsccrdncmppcsl/17fnsufsccrdncmppcsl

Thanks Tyler. Wouldn’t be the first time a manufacturer exaggerated about specs.

Make your own – pretty straight forward…an old video but still gets lots of traffic :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuDxmsUgjGs

Steve

I’ve watched your video a couple times. The technique works really well. :)

This one’s 40″ wide and 81″ long. $42. Fold it, cut it, roll it. This is what happens when you let social media name a product, too :)

https://seekoutside.com/matty-mcmat-face/