Topic

European Hiking

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
PostedJan 12, 2017 at 3:30 am

Im headed to Europe in April for 4-5 months. Im just starting some vague planning, but everything is super open at the moment. So I’m looking for any tips on hikes/trails/areas I should try to hit while I’m over there. I’ve done a quick bit of research, but haven’t gotten past the tourist traps yet (which look stunning, but I don’t like hiking with hundreds of other people on the same trail) – so it’d be nice if anyone here has some personal perspective?

 

I know BPL is quite US centric (all the outdoor communities I lurk are) – so additionally, if anyone knows good European based communities that’d be great :)

Gunnar H BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2017 at 11:33 am

I only really have own experiece from Sweden, but maybe I can help somewhat anyway. Where will you be based?

Most polular trail? Camino de Santiago.

Europes highest mountains, on trails during the day, a 3-course meal in the evening and a comfortable bed in a small hotel each night? The Alps.

Easy access and good hiking in top class mountains? The Dolimites in italy.

Do you want to be able to walk freely on and off trail and put your tent up almost anywhere? Scotland, Finland , Sweden, Norway.

Solitude and off trail in the mountains or forest? Sweden (but of cause not everywhere). Extreme solitude? Parts of Nothern Finland.

Mountains that rise out of the Atlantic with fjords and flaciers. Norway.

760 sq miles alpine landscape with 122 glaciers, two bridges, no (marked) trails and a few locked huts and no other man-made structures? Sarek in Lappland (Lapoina) in Nothern Sweden (I can´t stop myself from coming back…)

Otherways the normal rules apply in general; easy access -> more people; reliable sunshine -> no rich vegetation, no glaciers. And so on…

Of cause it´s much more. It might be easier to help if you can be a little more specific about areas and preferences.

 

PostedJan 13, 2017 at 1:25 pm

^^^ Stephen,

‘Outdoorsmagic.com’ has gone from poor to worse, and is nearly dead on it’s feet now. :-(

 

PostedJan 13, 2017 at 8:37 pm

Hey thanks guys, will definitely check out those forums :)

Re: Gunnar
Definitely interested in The Alps. Less so the 3 course meal and hotel (likely would be blowing my budget, not really the sort of thing I enjoy anyway + I prefer solitude).

The Dolimites are definitely on my list.

And I’m really really keen to spent a lot of time in Scandinavia. Do you have any memorable/favourite trails from your time in Sweden? How hostile/difficult are the conditions in Lapoina? It’s been on my list for a while, but I haven’t gone too far into the feasibility of it.

I realise it’s a little vague of a question. I am trying to keep open/plan my trip around hikes I want to do (as well as other stuff, obviously). But currently the loose plan is to start in Italy, and make my way through the baltics, then up through Austria/Poland (maybe going east for a bit) before spending a significant length of time in Scandinavia (including about at least a few weeks in iceland). Typically I have a preference for alpine areas, but I’m really trying to keep open about exploring other kinds of terrain.

It’s worth saying that a lot of my travelling will be through hitchhiking. While I’ve never found it too impossible to get somewhere through a hitch, it is something I’ll need to consider.

Gunnar H BPL Member
PostedJan 14, 2017 at 2:54 pm

Sweden’s most alpine areas are Sarek and the Kebnekaise area.  Here´s a few pics from Sarek so you can get an impression:

There other less wild areas in the mountain range still above the timberline that can look like this:

This is still quite nice. You can choose your path more freely and it’s a wonderful sense of openness and freedom on a day with clear skies. (Yes, it´s my dog.)
The birch forest closest to the timberline is also really nice:


We also have a lot of places of lower altitude with forest and a lot of lakes (it´s supposed to be 400 000 lakes in Swden) .
I can’t help you as much with Norway, but remember it’s still worthwile…
The most well-known trail is the Kings Trail that stretches 425 km (264 miles). I try to avoid it as much as possible, so I have only done a few shorter sections. It´s where you find most people and it tends to become quite worn and wide in many places. It is however well supported with huts by Svenska Turistföreningen (The Swedish Tourist Association)
There is more of a network of trails/paths generally in the moutanis, and I think one of the pleasures is to pick your route more freely from the map in this vast landscape with very few signs of civilization. Why do you always have to follow a trail? It is not uncommon to meet people from countries like Switzerland that come for this reason.
It’s not that hostile in our mountains. If you are an experienced hiker it should not be a problem. The main thing to be prepared for is several days of wet cold weather. This is manageable, but it can lessen your experience. However, the only alternative is to don’t go at all. There can also be a lot of mosquitos and no-see-um’s but that is also manageable and a bit better above the timberline. But if you haven’t brought the means needed to protect yourself it is unbearable, in the true meaning of the word.

This site by Jörgen Johansson may help regarding what you need to bring:
http://www.fjaderlatt.se/
Jörgen has developed his skills and gear choices in this environment so it will work up in the Swedish (and Norwegian) mountains. His book “Smarter Backpacking” is available on Amazon, a good read before coming here the first time.
http://www.fjaderlatt.se/

If you want a device for help in an emergency (recommended if you are alone) the Spot is unreliable in Laponia because it uses geostationary satellites that are to low on the horizon up north. A PLB works and In-Reach should also be OK I understand.
This could also be interesting:
http://www.swedishtouristassociation.com
Otherwise the forums I tend to use are in Swedish so they would not be of much help.

A few more words on the most alpine areas, Sarek and Kebnekaise.  The hiking season for both is typically mid-July to mid September. The Kebnekaise area is well supported with trails, bridges where its needed and huts (Svenska Turistföreningen) were you can cook, sleep and resupply.
Sarek is called “Europes last wilderness”, there is more or less nothing except for two bridges.  (But you will meet people, especially at some places. You can however also choose routes so you rarely meet others.) This means you will not be able to resupply within the park and you will have to wade. Wading is as you know really dangerous if you don’t know wat you are doing and overcommit. However, if you are an experienced hiker but haven’t done much wading, don’t let that deter you. Lern how to approach it and have an extra spare day for unplanned detours to avoid difficult wading. There is a lot of bears in the forest parts of Sarek but they avoid humans to the extent that you don’t have to take any special measures for them and you it’s unlikely you will see one, You are more likely to see a moose, famous in Sarek for their size since they are not getting hunted. And reindeers of cause, you will see in the whole mountain range.
Hitchhiking is safe and lawful in Sweden, but not so common and it can be difficult to get a ride. Consider flying if you want to go to the mountains as alternative to hitchhiking from south Sweden, unless you want to have stops to experience the southern parts of the country as well.. If you book early you can get a $50-80 flight from Stockholm to Kiruna (for Kebnekaise) or Gällivare (for Sarek).

If you decide to go for some thing like this in Sweden I can help with more details.

PostedJan 14, 2017 at 6:16 pm

 As above: I would ask on Trek-lite.

Cheers, will start having a read over there. Your Vanoise trip sounded (and looked!) great.

Sweden’s most alpine areas are Sarek and the Kebnekaise area.  Here´s a few pics from Sarek so you can get an impression

Thanks for this. Great photos (cute dog :D)

Living in New Zealand, I’m used to cold (obviously not as cold) and very wet weather, so i should be ok in this regard. Mosquitos are also horrendous here too, so I suspect they can’t be too much worse.

Thanks for the links as well, had a quick skim and there’s lots of great info there.

You’ve definitely sold me on Sarek, it’s pretty much the top of my list now hah. I’m sure I’ll eventually have more questions, but this has been really helpful – thanks.

 

Cesar And The Woods for Sweden

. Christine( The German Tourist ) hiking blog

.  Cam “Swami” Honan his European hikes( he has many more on his site) “The most travelled hiker on earth.”

   ~ Backpacker Magazine (January, 2015)

Great, thanks!

Gunnar H BPL Member
PostedJan 15, 2017 at 2:53 pm

Didn’t realise you´re in New Zeeland. From what I have read, you seem to have similar challenges as we have.

Some more links I came to think of that might be useful for Sarek. The maps for the whole mountain range can be found here in jpg:

http://bengt.nolang.se/kartor/fjallkartan/

Its map B10 you want. The one to the left is without grid, the one to the right has grid. It is available in Tyvek, I recommend you get one of those prior hiking. Here is a legend:

https://www.lantmateriet.se/globalassets/kartor-och-geografisk-information/kartor/teckenforklaring/fjallkartan100.pdf

I noticed there seem to be surprisingly little information in English about Sarek available on internet. This facebook group is dedicated to Sarek (only). You could join, it is Swedish, but I am sure very knowledgeable people will try to help if you ask in English as long as you´re sticking to the subject of the group.. There is also loads of photos in the group if you want to see more. (I normally prefer not to see to much photos before I go the first time.):

https://www.facebook.com/groups/329492693857479/?fref=ts

It´s not a ultralight group, rather traditional, and most gear advice will be based on that. Being in New Zeeland, you might have to drop a line to the group admin so he understands that you are actually a real person with real interest in Sarek, wanting to join the group.

PostedJan 15, 2017 at 10:57 pm

Yep, the conditions seem similar in certain cases. Although Sweden seems more wind-prone, and obviously colder.

Wonderful, invaluable links, thank you! Yeah, very little english info – wealths of it on US trails, but except for the most popular tourist trails, it’s a little trickier to find other stuff it seems in general. I’ll be making use of google translate and asking people experienced with the areas extensively.

Gunnar H BPL Member
PostedJan 16, 2017 at 11:53 am

One more thing, have you seen this link?

http://oneswedishsummer.weebly.com/my-blog/hiking-sarek-an-englishmans-guide

It´s really good and together with the maps probably everything you need. I found it when I had another go, astonished there was so little to find in English.

I don´t want to spoil your good preparation fun by proposing a route in Sarek now when you have a good map and a good link with useful information. I understand you also have a lot of other planning as well so I´ll leave you with it. Ask here or in the FB group want to advise on known difficult water crossings along the route, tweaks to not bypass something interesting or something else.

One little advice though, many people plan their first Sarek trip from that they MUST see the view from the Skierfe cliff. (If you dont know what it is you will likely find out as you dig into the planning.) It is a world class view but it´s not on the top of Skierfe you will find the soul of Sarek, and it is located in the outskirts of the National Park. Instead, find the areas on the map you feel you really want to visit – if Skierfe is naturally within reach from there then it´s worth the effort.

Stephen M BPL Member
PostedJan 17, 2017 at 8:27 am

Hi Catherine,

I had guessed outdoorsmaguc went downhill. I only see Trevor posting

PostedJan 20, 2017 at 8:57 am

There are a number of long-distance European trails.  I also live in Sweden but have been on some trails in Bohemia (the Czech Republic, close to Germany) that were amazing; I have hiked all over England; and have heard wonderful stuff about hiking in France.  My guess would be that this stuff is in books and not online, really.  http://cesarandthewoods.blogspot.se

In April the northern parts of Sweden still has snow; in England it is nasty and wet (I got soaked and miserable hiking one Easter weekend in England).  Sweden has wilderness as an American might think of it; England does not, although some areas are wilder than others.  Southern Europe will be much warmer at that time of the year.

Info here and elsewhere really is mostly centred not only on the US but on California!  Beautiful but not all of the US for sure…

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