Topic

completed asym mid

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
Kai Harris BPL Member
PostedJun 18, 2016 at 9:41 am

I’m nearly done with my asymmetrical mid – aka mid with a beak. Significant inspiration from Jerry Adams and Zpacks Altaplex.

 

The mid was designed at 45″ wide x 104″ long x 54″ tall and the beak at 30″ wide. It actually pitches at 56″ high when pitched to the ground and I plan on generally pitching at 60″. It uses the overlapping door closure from Zpacks.

Fabric is ExtremTextil 20d silnylon. Tie-outs have a second 4″ diameter piece of same fabric laminated on.

It pitches nice and tight except for the overlapping doors. The door closure angle isn’t quite right. I’m still sorting out how to fix it. For now it’s loose at the top unless the bottom doesn’t come together, which rather defeats the purpose of a door.

I’d really appreciate any ideas on how to fix the doors.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="662"] The bottom of the door is taught and the rest of the tent is taught but the overlapping door seam is not.[/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="662"] Using the Zpacks hook closure[/caption]

 

And obligatory weight shot. I’ve subsequently added panel lifters and it’s up to just at 11.5 oz.

 

 

 

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJun 18, 2016 at 10:39 am

That looks really nice, good job, low weight

That’s pretty much mine except I have a zipper

First, put in the two stakes at the far corners.

Then put the pole in and the one stake at the asym side middle.  Then it should be taut along the opening?

Then put the other two corners in and the middle of the long side.

Maybe you need a taller pole to account for stretch of fabric.  If the site isn’t flat it can be weird, although I can see yours is pretty flat.

A square or rectangular mid is easier in a way – you stake out the four corners and then put the pole in.  Except all mids including asym get weird when the site isn’t flat.  And once you figure out the sequence, the asym is maybe actually easier – only the two far corners and the middle of the asym side have to be in a plane, and since there are only three, that will always be the case, where the four corners of a regular mid can be off plane.

 

Matthew / BPL Moderator
PostedJun 18, 2016 at 5:38 pm

Would a toggle halfway down the door (ZPacks style) help with the door?

Kai Harris BPL Member
PostedJun 18, 2016 at 11:24 pm

@jerry – I’ll try pitching it that way. The first couple of times I’ve pitched it I staked the 4 corners, raised the pole, and then staked the beak.


@matthew
– Yea, I plan to add a toggle but was hoping to do it once the whole thing pitches taught. May circle back to this if I can’t get otherwise get it taught.

Ben Wortman BPL Member
PostedJun 21, 2016 at 8:56 am

Looks like you might have a bit too much length on the flap to make it taught.  On the right hand edge of the flap.  I think if you shorten that up at the top, it will pull the flap tight.  You might be able to pin it it up or fold it up with a binder clip to experiment.

I really like the overlapping flap idea instead of a zipper.  I might have to steal that idea for my next shelter.

Ben

Kai Harris BPL Member
PostedJun 22, 2016 at 9:45 pm

I repitched it last night using Jerry’s method – two far corners, lift the center with pole, stake the middle triangle, and then the last two corners. This is definitely better, the doors are usable now without worrying about wind easily pulling them apart. But now it isn’t quite as taught in one of the end panels.

I used 1.5″ catenary cuts which is on the low end of recommended deflection for the length. Perhaps the cat cut wasn’t quite aggressive enough. Or the simplest answer is the fabric stretched a bit unevenly between the different seams when sewing it together.

In any case, the panel lifters should help. I ran out of cord so haven’t tried them yet.


@Ben
, good idea with the binder clips to experiment with shortening the edge.

More pictures:

Kai Harris BPL Member
PostedJun 22, 2016 at 10:32 pm

Thanks! Credit to folks here from steering me away from some earlier bad ideas. Super rewarding to see it come together, makes you forget how many hours went into it!

PostedJun 22, 2016 at 10:33 pm

Looking at the second photo, I would have the stakes on the long side a bit closer (lengthwise) , then lift the pole up a bit. That way you should have less of a sharp change on the seam line from the apex to the stake .

Kai Harris BPL Member
PostedJun 22, 2016 at 10:40 pm

Interesting – I see what you’re saying. My pole is maxed out at 56″ in the pictures so I haven’t tried pitching higher. I’ll try that with a rock or piece of wood or finally make the pole jack I’ve been planning on.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJun 23, 2016 at 8:02 am

yeah, stick 2 inch or 4 inch board under pole to make it longer just to see what happens

I prefer 58″ or 60″ anyway for a little more head room.  If you’re stuck inside when it’s raining, and especially if there’s some condensation on the inside, taller is better.

this design is a bit weird because of the five asymmetric corners.  It takes a bit to figure it out.  But the low weight is good

can you open one side of the door?  I have a couple velcro strips exactly half way up so I can hold it open for ventilation if it’s not raining.  Or you could just have webbing strips.  Depending on the slope of the ground I’ll open one side or the other – open at the foot end and leave the head end more protected.

Kai Harris BPL Member
PostedJun 23, 2016 at 9:23 am

Re opening the doors, yes there are little Velcro bits for holding open the doors. Hopefully that and the higher pitch height will mitigate condensation. I have been planning on pitching at 60″ for ventilation purposes but didn’t realize that could affect pitch taughtness too.

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