Are You 6’1”? Is a 7.5×9.5 tarp a good size?

Not your size, but just want to note that .5′ difference each dimension isn’t really much of a difference all in all–certainly not a make or break it type difference. Are you planning on using any kind of bivy?  A simple bivy is one of the easiest things to make btw. If you don’t have a sewing machine and don’t want to/can’t invest in one, Walmart often has a cheap polypropylene fabric (unfortunately non woven, would be better if woven) that is reasonably durable and reasonably lightweight, and to which you can either hot glue together or tape with Tyvek tape together (and turn it inside out after so the tape isn’t showing).

The PP fabric is permanent DWR, quite breathable, and the material is less thermally conductive than most others, which can help cut down condensation forming some on one’s quilt/bag.  It’s not even close to be water proof, but it is in between slightly to moderately water resistant and that’s all a bivy really needs.  You would still need some waterproof material underneath you if going that route.

Best of luck

Hey Cal- I’m 6’2” that should be plenty spacious under there for you. I used to have an 8×10 and switched recently to a cat cut 7.5×9.5.  I’ve slept a few times in the rain under it and there was probably 12-18” of dry ground at my head and feet area. The size is plenty big for gear as well.  If your looking for good alternate pitches I found “storm mode” to be the best at shedding wind and keeping precipitation from blowing into the shelter. Also i fit into the shape, whereas the half pyramid shape was a little cramped for me and this was with an 8×10.  Pics are of storm mode. Basically storm mode is A-frame but with the windward side pegged tight to the ground,  3 sides end up close to the ground and one side A-frame.   I added a simple guy tie out point about 30” up the ridge to elevate the foot area by tying it off to my other hiking pole and pegging. Now if on the Aframe end you peg not the corners but the first tie outs, you can kind of make a door of sorts by bringing the corners to meet in the middle under the ridge. This usually isn’t necessary except in the worst weather but it also gives privacy if you’re in a campsite… it’s called the Tetra Wedge

@Justin: Thanks. Im planning on a bivvy. Great thought about the Walmart PP material. I’ll check it out. I’ve got some spare Tyvek too I could probably use as well. Right now I’m looking to tarp in the winter and shoulder seasons when snow is more of an issue, then go with my netted tent during bug season. My quilt has a dwr finish that I’m hoping would handle any spindrift, or is it still better to have the bivvy for moisture?

@Dave: Thx for the tip. I’ll check out the wedge. The tarp I’ve got is DCF as well. Where did you get your tieout? Does MLD, HMG, Zpacks still sell stickons? Was checking Zpacks the other day and couldn’t find them. My Tarp is MLD. I haven’t gotten it yet but it’s supposed to have 26 tieouts. Thx

Hi Cal, I”ve used a Tyvek bivy before, and don’t particularly recommend it, especially not for winter use; warm temp use is ok. Specifically I used “kite” 1443R Tyvek.

In some ways, Tyvek and polypropylene are opposites.  Tyvek is unusually thermally conductive and polypropylene is unusually non thermally conductive.  Tyvek will tend to have condensation form in between the top of the quilt and below the inner tyvek.  Polypropylene will tend to help drive it up to the top of the bivy.

Also, the PP fabric is definitely far more breathable, which is important especially for winter use. The small pores of the Tyvek could potentially ice up some, especially since the material is so thermally conductive, cutting down breathability.

The PP fabric is definitely a bit heavier, but that also makes it more stout.  If you can sew or find someone who can, I might use some silnylon with some silicone V’s painted on for the bottom.