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Anyone tried a pot with bail in a Caldera Cone?


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Home Forums Gear Forums Gear (General) Anyone tried a pot with bail in a Caldera Cone?

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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  • #3521789
    George J
    Spectator

    @inconel710

    I’m coming from a Scout/bushcraft background. Our troop is moving to more backpacking than car camping so my gear is changing.  I’ve used a 1.8l Mors pot for years, but I now realize it’s too big for just me, or even two people, and want to downsize. I like the bail though, and would like go to a Toaks 750 or 1100 with bail. I could use a Bushbuddy for heat, but I like the efficiency and smaller pack size of the Ti-tri Sidewinder. I recognize the Sidewinder is pot diameter specific and the bail would not allow the pot to sit all the way down while in alcohol/esbit mode. Has anyone tried it and does it make a difference?  Thanks!

    #3521835
    Matthew / BPL
    Moderator

    @matthewkphx

    Try emailing Trail Designs. In my experience, they respond quickly and thoughtfully. They might be able to cut a notch or two so that the pot sits properly in the cone or they might have other suggestions.

    #3521848
    Mario Caceres
    BPL Member

    @mariocaceres

    Locale: San Francisco

    I think having the lip of the pot sitting properly on the cone and applying even weight on it adds to its stability.  I’ve never seen a caldera cone in person so not sure how easy is to cut the material they are made of.  But I have worked with the titanium foil sold by Titanium Goat and you can easily cut it with sturdy scissors.  I would rough cut the notch with scissors and then use a file to micro shape it so it contours closely your bail.  You will need to be mindful of where the exhaust vents on the caldera cone are and how they line up with the notches you will be making.

    #3521860
    Bob Shuff
    BPL Member

    @slbear

    Locale: SoCal

    My guess is you would only lose a little efficiency with the pot slightly extended from the top of the cone.  However, this will change the distance from the pot to ground, and also effect the efficiency of the stoves.

    More importantly, many scout troops don’t allow (or at least discourage) alcohol stoves.  I can understand that given my experience in scouting.  Under close supervision my son has used several alchy stoves and cone setups, but more widespread un-supervised use is questionable.  Something like the starlyte stove that doesn’t spill is better, but even that one can fail if you overfill it.  If you are thinking Alcohol, proceed cautiously with younger scouts.  Note also that BSA policy does not allow home-made stoves.

    BSA does like esbit, if that’s your angle, and can be the lightest and works well under a cone.  You might just want to make sure the fuel to pot distance is correct if the pot sits higher in the cone due to the bail.

    Our troop uses canister stoves for backpacking, and you could try a remote stove with a cone, although a straight-up TI windscreen would work almost as well since you already have a stand with the canister stove.  We use MSR Whisperlites with their aluminum heat shield around and below the stove, The Mors pot would still work great for a few scouts who are patrol cooking.  If I were starting over for our troop, I might pick the Kovea Spider instead since it’s cheaper and lighter.  I’m not a fan of canister-top stoves for scouts as they can be tippy.

    I have the Sidewinder with Evernew 1.3L pot, which I think is best lightweight cook kit there.  I often carry the starlyte or 12-10 stove and a separate esbit holder.  This is awesome for my son and I when we want to make ramen on our backpack, and want to leave the canister stove behind.  If I’m going with the troop I might take a smaller setup for myself (check out Flat Cat Gear), since the scouts will be using their canister stove setups and cooking for a cook patrol of 3-8 scouts depending on the outing.

    #3521868
    Stormin
    Spectator

    @stormin-stove-systems

    Locale: East Anglia

    Made plenty for the Toaks 750 with bail  arm. Easy to do as the bail is in the same orientation as the pot handles. This leaves just one small scoop out of the top edge opposite the handles to accommodate the bale arm fixing.

    #3522467
    George J
    Spectator

    @inconel710

    Thanks to everyone for the many replies! I appreciate the knowledge you folks shared.

    To answer some of your questions and concerns – Yes, I’m aware of BSA policy on stoves. We’ve been using the Etekcity stoves as they are very inexpensive yet light, but you are correct they are tippy. We’ve adapted by using the MSR canister stand (which adds weight, ugh!). I will have to try a Kovea Spider now and may recommend that to our committee to pick up two or three.

    My intention for the Sidewinder was mostly wood burning, but I was curious how the bail would affect the other modes of operation. When I get one, I’ll get it with the Koijin stove which should be safe for Scout use.

    #3522477
    Bob Shuff
    BPL Member

    @slbear

    Locale: SoCal

    I believe the Trail Designs suggests you have the pot elevated for the wood option, so you may be fine out the bat.  Notching the cone for the bail is also an easy mod and will maximize stability, and hit the correct pot height if you use esbit or alcohol.

    Although BSA says you shouldn’t use home made stoves, I think you can do home made cones, and you can do that with Aluminum flashing as a starter.  There’s patterns and tools for patterns online.  Then you could move up to titanium if you liked.

    Trail Designs products are awesome, but pricey for a troop.

    BTW…just saw a nice video with a newer starylte stove here:  https://youtu.be/1YAxHflXzf8

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