Anyone Make Custom DCF Footprints/Tarps?

Why DCF for a footprint? It doesn’t have good abrasion/puncture resistance for the weight. Most likely you’d be using 1.0oz/yd DCF which is more expensive, heavier and likely less durable than RSBTR’s 15D sil/PU polyester which has a finished weight of 0.93oz/yd.

As to your question though, you can hot cut DCF but it needs to be done well or it’ll start fraying at the edges. You can use a “hot knife” (like a wood burning tool but with a razor blade tip) to melt through the dyneema, or cut it with an extremely sharp knife (it’s hard to cut).

Thanks Dan. I assumed because the various makers using 1 oz Dyneema claim it is fine by itself for a tent floor, that it would work well as a footprint.

I’ll look into the 15D sil/PU Polyester…

Anything else you’d recommend?

MLD makes a few.

MLD makes a few.

Indeed, but they are not custom.

Have you considered making your own groundcloth out of the insulating window film?  A piece will last me for a thousand miles.  Yes, you may get the occasional pinhole, but that is what boxing tape was invented for.  I have never experienced the blow-out tear so many people warn you about (anecdotally, I suspect).  Inexpensive, available, DIY, light, and compressible.  That’s a pretty strong sales pitch, don’t you think?  Food for thought. :)

I’ll second Matt’s recommendation for Polycro (Window film).  It is much more durable than one might think.  Personally I don’t think DCF is the best material for a tent floor or a footprint.

I’ll second Matt’s recommendation for window film, too. Mine has lasted some 50+ nights now and still seems to be in good shape.

The only disadvantage I see is that it is extreme slippery on snow.

“I assumed because the various makers using 1 oz Dyneema claim it is fine by itself for a tent floor, that it would work well as a footprint.”

1.0oz DCF works as a floor/footprint but it’s not optimal in the sense that you can get higher performance for less weight, money and bulk. If you treat it really well it can last a long time but typical lifespan is around 150 nights whereas you can get several times that on a 30D woven floor, and likely at least that much on a 15D woven floor. So you can do it, but I don’t think there is a good rationale for it.

The durability of DCF in a floor application is determined by the outer mylar because the inner dyneema does little to prevent punctures (since it’s not woven) nor abrasion (since it’s on the inside) and those are what determine the longevity of a floor. If you’re okay with a modest durability then you may as well use simply the mylar and omit the dyneema so it is cheaper and lighter. But other plastics may be better still such as the ones polycro options mentioned. I’d do that if you’re okay replacing it once in a while, or go with tyvek or 15-30D woven if you want it to last longer.

Have you considered making your own groundcloth out of the insulating window film?

Not going to happen.

I’m so sick and tired of throw away plastic I can barely stand it. I know, I know, it’s nothing compared to all the packaging we throw out everyday, but I will NOT purposefully buy something plastic with a limited life.

tyvek or 15-30D woven if you want it to last longer

Yeah, have been using Tyvek for years… it lasts, and lasts (1.85 oz).

My old footprints in the 1970’s were usually a 1.7 oz ripstop. They held up well.

“Light” and “durable” are often at odds…

“I’m so sick and tired of throw away plastic I can barely stand it. I know, I know, it’s nothing compared to all the packaging we throw out everyday, but I will NOT purposefully buy something plastic with a limited life.”

I applaud your concerns.  But that same philosophy would seem to disqualify DCF, as well.  It’s plastic’ish (synthetic composite) and it definitely has a limited life.  So, in honor of your beliefs, perhaps reconsider sticking with Tyvek.  When it’s done serving as a groundmat, you can make perfectly serviceable stuff sacks that will last another several years.  At less than 2 oz., it’s like carrying around an extra 2/3 of a Snicker’s bar that you don’t eat (if that could actually happen).

I agree, Matt. But, considering that all synthetics ((Nylon, Poly, DCF, plastic sheets) are some form of synthetic, I don’t believe you have much choice, Bradmacmt.

I think rayon is the only non-petroleum based fabric…well, at least it was designed that way to mimic silk (though production can be hard on workers due to nitric acid related compounds, I think…one of those compounds is very bad, anyway). Even Tyvec is a plastic “cloth” made up of random plastic fibers pressed/heated together much like DCF (a way to use scraps, initially.) Almost all camping equipment (except for down feathers, some wool fabrics) is synthetics/manufactured, today. Cotton is almost never used.

Yeah, DCF is not the best for ground sheets/tent floors. Nylon is MUCH better for similar weights (about a .3-.5oz difference per yard for a couple yards.) Poly lacks strength meaning it is subject to tears. Plastic sheets (polycro, Tyvec, painters drop cloths) are mostly disposable.

At around 4oz(avg) you can have a good nylon ground cloth, coated with silcon both sides that is highly durable, highly resistant to abrasion and repairable. A re-coating of silicon will put it back to work if it does start leaking. As always, this is a compromise between weight/durability/repairability over the long haul and should last an easy 15-20 years with only recoating and minor stitching as repairs. Weight goes between 3oz to start with and 5oz after multiple recoating/repairs.

DCF is lighter, but is subjected to abrasion. IFF, you can get a laminated version, you will find that the weight is poor (2.1+oz/yd.) Duct tape works well for punctures, but after several years, you loose the weight advantage. It is not repairable from general abrasion. Usually, around .71-1.0oz/yd is usually used. It is good for about 3-5 years and generally has the best weight/durability over that time period. It is also the most expensive.

Poly is heavier because the fabric is weaker than nylon/DCF and you need a heavier gauge to avoid rips. The newer silicon (or sil/PU) treated fabrics in heavy 30-40D fabrics are difficult to find. You cannot generally coat raw poly or poly/PU (P4000) with silicone/mineral spirits so there is no repair to a worn floor…it doesn’t stick well. A 30D, 1.6oz/yd silpoly would be OK, since it IS repairable. It will have roughly the same strength as 1.1oz silnylon.

Tyvec is as heavy as poly and less durable but somewhat cheaper, since, you can often hit up various construction sites for small pieces (3×7 is a small piece.) If you can get these for free, go for it, but insure they are water proof…not all grades of tyvec are. Usually, say on a house, it is often the breathable kind, because it it NOT a good practice to put insulation between two vapour barriers (insulation often has a vapour barrier on it.) BE CAREFUL. Some is quite waterproof and fine. Weight is around 4oz.

Polycro is cheaper and lighter and has moderate/poor durability. It is fine for a couple weeks but “sharp” objects (twigs, jagged stone, etc) can puncture it easily. Bring a piece of duct tape for repairs, it will usually last a season with DT repairs. Weight is good at around 2oz. You might consider adding some duct tape for mounting stakes.

A painters drop cloth is the lightest/cheapest/least durable. It punctures easily but is fine for a few rainstorms, provided you don’t set up in a puddle. I don’t consider it waterproof, except for a the initial use….pick your ground. Good for over wet ground under a tarp for a couple weeks. They weigh about an 1-1.5oz.

Mylar “space” blanket works well but has the same drawbacks as polycro/painters drop cloths. There are different grades of this stuff as well. The only good thing is that it will reflect heat back at you from below. A small piece of plastic wrapped in a corner or a smallish washer makes a good mount for guylines for staking it out. Wider versions (like 3’x7′) can be had with a bit of searching. Weight is usually around 1-2oz. They can leave a black film on your hands but are real cheap at around $.20 to $1.00 each. SOL makes a lager one at 4’6″x7′ at 2.5oz for $5.00.

I think Bear Paw designs will make custom footprints out of what ever material you like.

Buyer Beware with Bear Paw!!

I would normally agree with the Bear Paw caution, but surely they can manage a groundsheet.

For the OP, you could buy whatever raw fabric you want, cut it to your desired dimensions, and then get a local seamstress or someone from MYOG to hem the edges.

Ya maybe but I have seen some really bad stuff from him and since he wants custom he has a no refund policy with custom jobs(not that he would easily do a refund otherwise)

For the OP, you could buy whatever raw fabric you want, cut it to your desired dimensions, and then get a local seamstress or someone from MYOG to hem the edges

I just plan on doing it like I’ve done for over 40 years… order the material, and cut it with a hot knife, no hem needed.

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I got a bit of an education on Dyneema.