Topic

Alaska Dream Trip

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
Curt Peterson BPL Member
PostedMar 12, 2022 at 9:35 am

Hi all. Looking for some wisdom on a dream Alaska trip. Quick context: Backpacking partners & I do an annual “life list” trip. Glacier, Yellowstone, Beartooths, etc. + tons of weeklong trips here in WA. This year we are celebrating old man birthdays (50 & 60) by going to Alaska.

Details: Got anywhere from 2 to 3 weeks. Any window in the last couple weeks of August through first couple of weeks of September can work. Willing to rent vehicles, fly, whatever to get to amazing places. Totally fine doing a mix of front country and backcountry to see a variety of landscapes. Also fine doing a week one area, move to another for a week, etc. to see more. Would love to do some fishing. I’ve always wanted to catch a grayling. Caribou hunt would be incredible, but obviously would change the nature of the trip a lot.

We’re assuming mosquitoes aren’t super bad that late. Correct? Originally thought Gates of the Arctic would be awesome, but now thinking if we go there we’ll see little else. Also – not super huge fans of the tussocks and bushwhacking. Open tundra with zero trees is the kind of Alaska we want to see. Is ANWR more like that? Not interested in the rainforest or dense woods. Got plenty of that here in WA.

General recommendations are welcome. We do tons of research and this forum has some great trip reports and has us digging already, but looking for anything on that specific window of time that you Alaska gurus got.

Thanks!

PostedMar 12, 2022 at 6:39 pm

I typically find specific trip recommendations the most useful when they are accompanied by a trip report so you can evaluate the conditions, terrain, vegetation, etc. I really don’t travel in the interior much because I’m a sort of coastal AK guy, but this Anaktuvuk Pass to Nolan trip looked pretty cool, and seems to fit your bill. Note that they used packrafts to float some sections. Spruce Boy did not provide a map, but I’ve re-created it in Google Earth if you are curious.

Anaktuvuk to Nolan

Skurka’s Chickaloon to Cantwell (leg 6 of his mega-loop) also looks like what you’re after. I followed his place name references and made a Google Earth route for that one too.

Chickaloon to Cantwell

Luc’s Alaska Wilderness Classic trip report basically reverses Skurka’s Chickaloon to Cantwell route (sort of), and can give you more insights into that area of the Talkeetna Mountains. Luc provides a map at the end of the post.

2020 Alaska Wilderness Classic

AK Granola BPL Member
PostedMar 12, 2022 at 6:58 pm

If you’re going overland anywhere in Alaska, you’ll be bushwhacking. There aren’t really long trails. And tussocks come with tundra walking. Perhaps a float trip would better suit you. We have lots of wild rivers.

Curt Peterson BPL Member
PostedMar 13, 2022 at 10:22 am

Thanks for the replies! The links are super helpful. I’ve seen some of them, but not others so this is going to give me hours of virtual exploring. Philip – your videos are always stunning and I appreciate that you share them with everyone! I love the idea of packrafting, but being total newbies in that arena concerns me a bit. I’d want to get a lot of hours on the water before committing to an AK river. I will look further into it, however!

PostedMar 13, 2022 at 1:07 pm

Carrying a packraft is always a trade-off. You are instantly adding 10 pounds of stuff to your kit with one. Every mile hike you have to carry that extra weight, so you take a packraft because on net it is a benefit (floating a river is easier than hiking), or the trip would simply be infeasible without one (some of my coastal travel would be impossible if I couldn’t paddle between islands). So it really requires a long hard think in order to arrive at a conclusion that the raft is the right strategy. Plus on-water can be an extremely dangerous way to travel.

David Thomas BPL Member
PostedMar 16, 2022 at 1:29 pm

The obvious answer is Denali due to the low cost of access (rental car or train or bus or hitchhike from ANC or FAI), bus access to your particular starting point within the park, and how well-managed the wildlife is there (grizzly bears aren’t rewarded by scoring human food, so you have to follow best practices, but can be less nervous than in less controlled settings).

There aren’t backcountry trails, so you’re doing relatively few miles a day (you always are, off-trail, in Alaska), but the wildlife and scenery are fabulous.

And 4 vertical miles of mountain is spectacular if you get lucky and see “the mountain” – it is, by one definition, the highest mountain on Earth.  The chances of it being cloud free for a bit increase later in the Fall. 

So I’d put Denali NP up for consideration for 4-7 days of your trip.  After that, I’d head elsewhere to see other eco-systems/terrain/critters.

I live on the Kenai Peninsula and there’s a ton of stuff to do here – trout, salmon and halibut fishing; hiking on established trails (80 miles from Hope to Seward along the Resurrection Trail), the OTHER (than Boundary Waters) national wilderness canoe-trails system,

white-water rafting/fishing; world-class sea kayaking; day cruises (otters, whales, eagles, goats, sheep, puffins); fly-in cabins; hunting in the Fall.

If you want to hunt caribou, Adak is a cool and weird place to do it – 1000 miles out the Aleutian chain.

I’ve written up one of our trips out there:

GGG-Alaska-2018 – Backpacking Light

Argh!  Stupid BPL text entry won’t let me cut&paste a URL.  Google “David Thomas BPL Adak Caribou” and it will pop up.

The trick, cost-wise, is the use of frequent-flyer miles to get out there and back, but if you actually have 3 weeks, a week on Adak would be a totally different experience / ecosystem / activities than Mainland Alaska.

A week each in Denali, the Kenai, and Adak would be a crazy-varied survey of the largest state but with enough time in each place to learn your way around and a relax a bit.

Warning: once I’d gotten to all 50 states, I was going back to Alaska the most often and then moved up, so there’s that risk.

Curt Peterson BPL Member
PostedMar 16, 2022 at 5:07 pm

This is super helpful!! More research about to happen for sure :)

I’ll check the links and read up. Adak sounds super cool. And I’d love to get some fishing in at the back end of the trip.

I do worry about it being a one-way trip. I avoided Montana for decades for that reason and have now been back 4 times in 5 years and can’t get it out of my head. I’ve done the same with Alaska and I’m sure the result will be similar!

 

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