Paul,
You said, “What about when the insulation in a jacket is down and they specify the total amount of fill, but not fill per sq meter or sq, yard?”
Insulation clo goes up or down based on the density. Synthetic insulation is always manufactured at the optimal density that provides the highest clo and is, by convention, reported in clo/oz.
Down insulation continues to increase in clo for up to 2.5x the density that just fills a baffle. For that reason, down insulation information is provided in oz of fill.
Here is an example to try and make things clearer. In the pdf’s Figure 7 I provided that 800 fill power (FP) down insulation Iclo for a Montbell Alpine Light Down Parka @ 5.24. Look at the Montbell specification for this garment and you will see that, in size M, it has 4.3 oz of fill. The majority of the garments used for UL backpacking have this construction and down FP. Let’s say you see a down hoody you are considering from brand X that has 1.8 oz of 800 FP fill. You simply multiply 1.8/4.3 * 5.24 = 2.19.
Let’s assume that another garment from brand X, you are considering, is a vest with a hood on it with 1.8 oz of 800 FP fill rather than a parka like the Montbell Alpine Light Down. The same insulation clo calculation applies to this unique garment; only the BSA calculation is unique. Per the pdf’s Figure 1, we know that rather than using a body surface area of 52% for a parka, this custom garment would use a body surface area (BSA) of a vest @ 36% and a hood @ 5% BSA for a combined BSA of 41%.
Once you determine the garment’s Iclo, then all of the other calculations are identical to determine the camp chores thermo-neutral temperature and backpacking thermo-neutral temperature.