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Jetboil Joule Issue

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Viewing 19 posts - 26 through 44 (of 44 total)
PostedJan 9, 2015 at 7:10 pm

And while I love alcohol stoves for solo use ,for group cooking ,it would be hard to overlook the speed of any good HE pot / cannister stove setup..

I guess I am just an ornery cuss, but if I'd have spend 2 bills on a Jetboil Joule and it did not work,I would have sent an email with that pics captioned -" Your products failed and let these children down"…:(

Edward Z BPL Member
PostedJan 9, 2015 at 7:21 pm

We put in at two harbors and explored the north end of the island. Not pictures are two large families who started ahead and did Avalon to parsons landing

Hikin’ Jim BPL Member
PostedJan 10, 2015 at 10:04 pm

Dave has pointed out issues with using a MSR stove on non-MRS canisters. I too have had issues with using a Pocket Rocket with JB or Optimus canisters. I usually have to screw the stove pretty tight to achieve gas flow. So maybe the stove’s “valve pin” or whatever it’s called is a wee bit shorter than most stoves, and that MSR has designed their canisters to work nicely with their shorter stove pin. Just a thought.

It’s kind of a moot point for me anyway, since I have zero respect for the Pocket Rocket. I do like the MSR canisters, and all of my non-MRS stoves work well with them. I’m wondering if MSR uses a different company to make/fill their canisters, or if they have different specs that the same company employs. The bottoms of the MSR canisters are silver-colored, whereas all the other brands are a sort of brass color, and they appear identical (Optimus, JB, Snow Peak, etc.).

I mix and match canisters and stoves like you wouldn’t believe. I have dozens of canister gas stoves. Several dozen. Never a problem with any stove and any brand of canister gas.

Is there a link you can give me to where the discussion occurred here on BPL?

As for the gold vs. silver bottom, try scratching the bottoms with a pen knife and let me know what you see.

HJ
Adventures in Stoving
Hikin Jim’s Blog

Roger Caffin BPL Member
PostedJan 11, 2015 at 1:07 pm

> I think the threading may be different.

WRONG. Period.

ALL screw-thread canisters (butane/propane style) have exactly the same thread. It is 28 tpi 7/16" UNEF. This is also used on the wireless ethernet RP-TNC connectors. This includes the fly-spray canisters with a screw thread. (No, it does not include propane or LPG bottles.)

And before someone raises EN417, that standard covers canister safety, NOT the thread. Yes, labels on lots of canisters and even some stoves say they comply with EN417 – but the marketing guys know not what they are saying there. More important is the DoT compliance.

However, pin lengths on different brands of stoves may vary slightly, and the exact design and position of the valve plug inside the threaded bit may also vary slightly between brands. This can cause slight problems between brands. Some stoves seem to have longer pins, which can let a bit of gas leak out during connection, while other stoves have a slightly shorter pin which means the stove sometimes has to be screwed down a bit harder. Unfortunately, while the thread and general dimensions are fairly standardised, the pin length never was.

Further info at
http://bushwalkingnsw.org.au/clubsites/FAQ/FAQ_GasStoves.htm

Cheers

PostedJan 11, 2015 at 2:31 pm

But if the pin were longer on MSR canister stoves, then one would have issues with fitting MSR canister stoves to MSR canisters but this isn't the case.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJan 11, 2015 at 4:25 pm

I remember one canister on one stove that didn't work very well. Very slow. Have to really tighten it hard and it worked better. I think it was Pocket Rocket on Snow Peak Giga Power made in Japan.

Hikin’ Jim BPL Member
PostedJan 11, 2015 at 5:18 pm

I actually experienced that (once only) with a Crux on a Snow Peak Canister, the older “made in Japan” type. Had to tighten it a bit to get the gas to flow.

Now that all the canisters from the major brands in the US are made by a single manufacturer, I’ve had no problems.

HJ
Adventures in Stoving
Hikin Jim’s Blog

Roger Caffin BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 3:03 am

> But if the pin were longer on MSR canister stoves, then one would have issues
> with fitting MSR canister stoves to MSR canisters but this isn't the case.
Of course, if MSR also specified the design of the little plastic plug inside the Lindal valve housing to suit the MSR stove pin length, then you would not have a problem.
But you might have a slight problem when mixing brands.

Cheers

Stuart R BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 8:25 am

I had this problem once with a Pocket Rocket. This incident is what started me investigating vapour pressure of gas mixtures. However, the cause of the problem was much more simple:
The Pocket Rocket has a big fat rubber washer on the base (in addition to the sealing o-ring) and this washer gets hard in the cold.
In my case it was just below freezing so the washer was harder than normal. I would have had to screw the stove on to the canister much more tightly to get the pin to depress the Lindal valve plunger sufficiently and thus risk stripping the stove thread, or if I had realised, warm up the washer with body heat. I didn't, and cold porridge is not very appetising.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 10:33 am

"and all of my non-MRS stoves work well with them"

Gary, you have unmarried female stoves?

–B.G.–

Gary Dunckel BPL Member
PostedJan 12, 2015 at 1:05 pm

Argh…looks like my dyslexia surfaced yet again, right –G.B.–?

No, none of my stoves are married, but they all are spoken for. They have a rather kinky relationship with the guy that pays the mortgage on the basement of the house where they live.

By the way, Jim, I took my Dremel to the underside of several brands of empty canisters. The brass color is only a surface thing, and the canisters are all silver when you get that thin outer layer off. Maybe they electro-plated the brassy layer on most of them, whereas the MSR ones don't have it.

Edward Z BPL Member
PostedJan 22, 2015 at 10:32 am

Wow,

This company absoultely gets a fail for customer service……… Still nothing. Another message left today.

Ed

PostedJan 22, 2015 at 6:22 pm

Ed I know you've bee a fan if Jetboils for a while ,but I think its time you moved up to something like an MSR reactor.

Same money,better performance in wind and tREAL CUSTOMER SERVICE.

Edward Z BPL Member
PostedMar 23, 2015 at 10:13 am

So….. Thanks everyone for the points of contact with Jetboil/Silva….

I sent this thing back in almost 2 months ago. They sent out a Fedex Return Authorization. And then? You guessed it… nothing. I called today and surprise surprise, no idea. And coincidentally, the man who does "warranty work" on the jetboils isn't in today to tell me what was wrong with it.

So, a company makes a product… sells it … and when it breaks in the first 10 boils, then can't replace it when it's an almost $200 item? So they hold on to this for months and months and now what? You have to fight to ask anything? No updates/confirmations etc! This is my last JETBOIL product ever. And I am selling my other working Jetboils because I can't stand this kind of lack of customer care in today's world. What a joke. This is a prime example of how spending the extra coin at an REI or something other than Amazon can save grief. But it's enlightening to show just how bad at customer care this company is.

Wowser.

Ed

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedMar 23, 2015 at 10:24 am

amazon has pretty good return policy in first month

that would cover you if they sent something that didn't work at all

Edward Z BPL Member
PostedMar 23, 2015 at 10:47 am

I test boiled it the first month. worked. Months later on its first trip it failed night in… lovely. After Amazon warranty.

The Ebbo BPL Member
PostedAug 28, 2015 at 10:03 pm

I have a Joule and have had similar issue with blocking of jet. I usually cook in Alpine environment with it for 5-7 people. Cooker was left out in snow one night without canister attached and must have got particles in it. Simple to solve though. 1-Use a #10 Torx key to undo screw on plate by burner 2-Slide small plate towards burner 3-Pull piezo wire out of the bottom of burner (it is just pull push fit) 4-Carfully pull burner back away from jet 5-Tilt burner so intake port end raises and clears jet 6-Pull burner gently back towards jet so it passes over top & out 7-Use a 6mm socket to unscrew jet 8-Either blow back through jet to unclog or buy a micro drill #49 is the jet size to use as tip/jet cleaner pushing from outside in while turning gently 9-Reassemble in reverse order 7-1 I have not tried to disassemble the valve yet but can let you know once I have. Jetboil were not very helpful when I contacted them. I go at times to remote locations and it is imperative that people can service their cooker & other crucial equipment in the field. A proper service manual and mini tool kit should be supplied with cooker and some online training video be put together. After a field service there should be facilities to have a professional service done if required. Note liquid gas cookers are not compliment in Australia currently as they must be able to extinguish flame in 5 seconds from shutoff. This could be easily solved if a second valve were placed in the line past the regulator closer to the jet. maybe before the heated part of the line. All in all I love my Joule and it works very well. I have a Helios Guide System and also love it with two pots but it would be much better with a regulator. Come On Jetboil !

Viewing 19 posts - 26 through 44 (of 44 total)
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