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Boundary Waters trip


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  • #1322951
    Dan Magdoff
    BPL Member

    @highsierraguy

    Locale: Northern California

    hey all!

    I am in the initial stages of planning a Boundary Waters canoe trip for me and some friends next summer. I was wondering if anyone on here has some resources, advice or tips for me on planning a trip. Any help would be awesome!

    #2151148
    Jay L
    BPL Member

    @jjlash

    the message boards at bwca.com. Like here – tons of experience there.

    #2151193
    David Thomas
    BPL Member

    @davidinkenai

    Locale: North Woods. Far North.

    I'll just point out that there is ANOTHER national, wilderness canoe-trails system in the USA: the Kenai Canoe Trails. Not nearly as large as BWCA, but it would be easy to spend a few weeks exploring it. I've done overnight trips, multi-night loop trips, multi-night through trips down the river and, when I find someone else who wants a LONG day of paddling, one-day 30-mile trips through 7 lakes and down the Swanson River. Once past the first lake or two, we typically see one other party a day, if that. The only guide book is by Daniel Quick, "The Kenai Canoe Trails" with good details on campsite locations, paddling times, and fish populations but the portage trails do show on several different recreation maps. It would be a 3,300-mile drive rather than 2,000 to BWCA, but combining it with the Alaskan Highway, Denali NP, etc would make a spectacular trip.

    #2151200
    Ryan Slack
    Member

    @rwslack

    Locale: Minnesota

    Others have asked about the BWCA on this site.

    Including:
    http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=60148

    You can also search in the backpacking light with scouts forum or do a site search for northern tier, the BSA high adventure base on Moose Lake (Ely, MN). I can answer specific questions if you think of any; feel free to PM me as I used to work at the Scout base and have taken at least a couple dozen trips throughout the Boundary Waters/Quetico.

    #2151318
    Dan Magdoff
    BPL Member

    @highsierraguy

    Locale: Northern California

    Thanks for the tips. That older post was pretty helpful! Does anyone have any specific outfitters they would recommend using?

    Also, could anyone point me in the direction of a good route? We are looking at atleast a 7 day loop trip and would like to get to some more remote areas with minimal amount of people, do some fishing and take in some great scenery and wildlife viewing. Also OK with doing portages as needed.

    #2151370
    Jim Colten
    BPL Member

    @jcolten

    Locale: MN

    That other thread does contain a lot of good info.

    I'd quibble with one point said there … August IS a great time to go, bugs ARE low, water IS warm but people are NOT minimal (for those very reasons).

    The Pagami Creek fire burned about 100,000 of the BWCAW's 1,000,000 acres and had a big impact on the Lake One entry point. Lake One was very popular in that it provides access to a wide area with fewer than average portages. Since the fire the Lake One entry quota has been split into two parts, the larger part not allowing camping in the unburned areas. The Lake 1, 2, 3, 4 "highway" to Insula is largely thru burned area for farther than most folks want to paddle in one day.

    I don't think the fire links in that other thread are alive anymore. Here is one: http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/superior/home/?cid=stelprdb5341928
    da google can find others.

    Regarding minimal people … hard to find outside of shoulder season … BWCAW is one of the most heavily used of the wilderness areas. A couple long portages will leave a lot of people behind. In August or holiday weekends I suggest getting out of camp early and looking for campsites by mid afternoon or earlier.

    Quetico is adjacent across the border in Ontario. Quetico's roughly 1,000,000 acres are in one kinda square chunk (a more remote interior) and has much lower entry quotas. But it is more expensive and also more planning needed if entering the park from the US (border issues). If you go there be sure to find out which lakes First Nation peoples are flying anglers into this year (unless you don't mind float planes).

    There is also Wabakimi Provincial Park … similar to BWCAW/Quetico but motors allowed … but much much much lower usage I'm told (haven't been there)

    Back to the BWCAW. It is in three separate chunks, one larger than the other two combined. I haven't been to the part SW of the Echo Trail (road) so can't help with that. The part NE of the Gunflint Trail (road) is somewhat different from the rest … mainly largish long lakes between high ridges … very scenic. Travel is relatively easy but be careful with portages running north/south there, they tend to run over those ridges. Wind can be an issue on larger lakes so travel early in the day or late in the evening. The Border Route hiking trail traverses that section and I know of pairs of groups who have teamed up to do a half hiking/half paddling trip … meeting up in the middle.

    #2151518
    Dan Magdoff
    BPL Member

    @highsierraguy

    Locale: Northern California

    Ya, I am looking into the Quetico area….seems like a good option. Id like work with an outfitter, but its hard to figure out which is a good one. I feel like many push for routes that are really common and close to their location for ease. Trying to find an outfitter who's willing to suggest areas more remote and further out.

    #2151589
    David Noll
    BPL Member

    @dpnoll

    Locale: Maroon Bells

    Dan,
    Here is the layout for a trip I did twice while leading portage clearing trips. It is aprx 46 miles with 23 lakes, 1river, 4 creeks and 28 portages. Little Indian Sioux river to Lower Pauness, Upper Pauness, Loon Lake, Little Loon, Slim, South Lake, Eugene Lake, Beartrxck Lake, Pocket Lake,Ge-Be-on-e-quet, Rocky, Oyster, Hustler, Lynx, Shell, Lower Pauness and back. It has a lot of beautiful lakes, great campsites, good fishing, killer portages and some Indian pictographs. Because of the number of portages you won't see a lot of people on the far northern part. I would recommend kevlar canoes because of the portages. Most of the outfitters in Ely are pretty good. I have my own equipment so Can't recommend one over the other. However, if you are interested, I have some good friends who are from and live in Ely and could ask for their ideas.

    Dave

    #2151714
    Eric Lundquist
    BPL Member

    @cobberman

    Locale: Northern Colorado

    I've done David's suggested route as well. A very scenic trip.

    #2151724
    Greg Mihalik
    Spectator

    @greg23

    Locale: Colorado

    "Ya, I am looking into the Quetico area….seems like a good option."

    We flew to Nym Lake, on the north edge of the Quetico then took three weeks to get to Sawbill in the southern BWCA. (One of many trips in that part of the world.)

    If you are looking for small water and stream travel, especially for a first trip, BWCA makes that much easier to figure out.

    Quetico, in general, is much bigger water than BWCA. Most of the time in BWCA you can get to shore in a hurry if you have to. Depending where you are in Quetico, you could be a hour from shore. Quetico, especially the farther north you go, requires good open water skills (wind and chop), as well as confidence in following a compass bearing versus "landmarks". Quetico IS nice. But it can be quite a step up from BWCA.

    So, how much experience do you have, and how much adventure do you want?

    #2152360
    Dan Magdoff
    BPL Member

    @highsierraguy

    Locale: Northern California

    David….thanks for the route suggestion! If any of your friends from Ely have other route suggestions or suggestions for an Outfitter that would be awesome!

    Greg… We are looking for a good adventure :) Some of us have had a good bit of open water kayaking (which is different than canoes, I know) and we feel very confident with maps and compasses. BUT…since some of us will be relatively new to paddling, maybe a less aggressive route would be better. I just worry that the Boundary Waters is such a popular place (like Yosemite), that an escape into the wilderness isn't really escape when you have to start looking for a campsite by mid afternoon….

    #2152398
    David Noll
    BPL Member

    @dpnoll

    Locale: Maroon Bells

    Dan,
    For less people go either earlier (May) or later (Sept). Best fishing is June 7-27. Best for weather and low bugs is mid August but is also the most heavily used. On the route I gave you there probably won't be a lot of people. If you want PM me and we can talk.

    Dave

    #2152461
    Greg Mihalik
    Spectator

    @greg23

    Locale: Colorado

    "Also OK with doing portages as needed."

    Some loops have about 10 portages a day. You need to be very efficient at loading/unloading and, IMHO, get them done as a "single carry".

    Is that what you have in mind, or more like 5 a day?

    #2152465
    Jim Colten
    BPL Member

    @jcolten

    Locale: MN

    A quick count of portages on David's route suggestion comes up with about 30.

    Considering single carry … a great efficiency if you are traveling lightish … but a bit risky (injury) if not

    #2152510
    Robert Blean
    BPL Member

    @blean

    Locale: San Jose -- too far from Sierras

    "Also OK with doing portages as needed."

    Some loops have about 10 portages a day. You need to be very efficient at loading/unloading and, IMHO, get them done as a "single carry".

    Is that what you have in mind, or more like 5 a day?

    There is a lot of satisfaction in being efficient portaging so that a portage is no big thing, especially the short-to-medium length portages, which are the most common. It's a definite canoe-country skill that should be mastered.

    –MV

    #2152544
    Jim Colten
    BPL Member

    @jcolten

    Locale: MN

    efficient portaging …

    The gold standard among portaging I've witnessed was a pair of forest service employees. One canoe, two paddles, two people and two packs. They reached shallow water at the portage landing, stepped out into the water and wedged a paddle into each end of the canoe. One guy shouldered the larger of the packs, the other took the smaller pack and canoe. They were away from the landing in less than a minute and I suspect the other end was just as quick.

    Now some (many!) landings are not so conducive to that much efficiency … it requires relatively good footing and a gently sloped bottom.

    #2152549
    Greg Mihalik
    Spectator

    @greg23

    Locale: Colorado

    Portagé –

    We position our landing to provide dry footing for our "pick and carry".
    Bow exits, with smalls, sets them down-trail, returns, and if needed, stabilizes while Stern exits.
    Stern picks up the Bow's pack, helps donning at water's edge, (I've already picked it up), and hands off paddle.
    Stern picks up and don's pack/carrier, picks up the canoe from the water, and flips it up for the carry.
    Bow collects smalls, checks the area, heads down the trail, and Stern follows.

    Bow scouts the trail, and at the end, the landing, instructing Stern where to set the canoe
    Stern arrives, places the canoe on the water, and places the pack/carrier in the canoe.
    Bow hands off pack, Stern loads it into the canoe, while Bow loads smalls. Bow gets in.
    Stern boards, while Bow braces, if necessary.

    Paddle away.

    Easily under 10 minutes at each end. Typically around 5 minutes.
    If we come in behind a "4 boat carnival", and there's room, we paddle straight in, wet-wade, pick and go, in about 3 minutes.

    #2152566
    Dan Magdoff
    BPL Member

    @highsierraguy

    Locale: Northern California

    Ya, I was thinking an average of 10 portages a day would be expected. it would be nice if some days were less, but understand that multiple portages a day is kind of the norm.

    A few people in our group threw a curve ball in the plans. it looks like we will be going the very beginning of August and will be more like a 6-7 day trip instead of a 9 :( I know it will be a more busy time of year and that the mosquitoes may be a little worse and the fishing wont be as good…but I guess ya gotta do, what chya gotta do. Still hoping that with the shorten trip we can still get into some pretty cool areas and seem some beautiful country.

    #2152568
    Robert Blean
    BPL Member

    @blean

    Locale: San Jose -- too far from Sierras

    Look on the bright side — it should be pretty easy to portage along the lines Jim described. The stern person carries his personal gear plus the canoe, while the bow person carries his personal gear plus all community gear and food. Single carrying should be no problem — fast, & efficient.

    –MV

    #2152571
    Dick Beamish
    Spectator

    @dbeamish

    Locale: Tennessee

    I would highly recommend Wabakimi. I was there several years ago on a two week trip and we did not see a soul for the first week. One of the trips of a life time for me.

    #2152597
    Jim Colten
    BPL Member

    @jcolten

    Locale: MN

    I like to think I've taken a couple "hard work" BWCAW trips … but the most portages I've done in a day is 9. Would not have been possible if not single tripping each one.

    #2152598
    Jim Colten
    BPL Member

    @jcolten

    Locale: MN

    Here is a online interactive map I recently found. It shows portages, campsite locations and even the Primitive management areas and their zones … nice.

    #2154460
    tom lakner
    BPL Member

    @lakneremu

    Locale: midwest

    Dan,
    I'm kinda late getting to this thread.
    My thoughts ,knowing a bit about the folks going on this trip, is that you pick an area, say Iron Lake,between,LaCroix and Crooked and do some major exploring and fishing.You can choose larger open waters when the weather allows and fish Iron and Curtain and Rebecca Falls when its worse. The Canadian portages are crappy.
    Anyway,i'd try Wilderness outfitters in Ely,speaking to Gary Gotchnik. He grew up there and is a great guy, and knows his stuff.
    Hope that helps. I grew up there many years ago, The Lake One-Alice area was where we spent most of our time but the border lakes are beautiful.
    TomL

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