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Ostrander Ski Hut snowshoe trip

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Elle Zhu BPL Member
PostedNov 16, 2014 at 4:13 pm

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has any experience snowshoeing out to the Ostrander hut in Yosemite. I am hoping to plan a trip out there in January or February with a small group of 4 people.

How are the accommodations, will it be warm enough in there with a 20F bag, where do you get your water? Also is it reasonable to do this as a 2-day weekend trip? I have no problem hiking 12-15 miles in a day but I understand that snowshoeing might be a little slower.

Any advice is appreciated!

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 16, 2014 at 4:31 pm

I started going to Ostrander in 1979, but never on snowshoes. Always cross country skis. We have had some pretty iffy snow for the last few winters, so it has become difficult to plan a good trip. However, you need to reserve in advance.

Inside the stone building, there are bunks for about 15 downstairs and about 8 upstairs. Sleeping is quieter upstairs. The wood stove normally generates heat during the evening hours, and then it is cut off by bed time. As a result, it never gets too cold inside. Maybe 35-40*F is the coldest that I have ever seen inside there when it was storming outside.

It is certainly possible to do it as a 2-day trip from Badger Pass, although I did that once and gave up on it. There are some pleasant places to go in the area for a layover day.

Water comes out of Ostrander Lake. Each person takes a turn with the bucket. There used to be a metal harpoon down by the lake shore, so a hole has to be punched in the ice, the bucket must be filled, and then it must be carried back uphill. This is unpleasant when the water splashes out onto your pants leg. Don't ask me how I know this.

–B.G.–

David W. BPL Member
PostedNov 16, 2014 at 5:09 pm

I went to Lake Ostrander once on snowshoes but I didn't stay in the ski cabin. We took two days to get to the lake and one day coming out. I imagine it's possible for strong hikers to go up and back in a weekend but I think it would be physically challenging for most people. I would say it all depends on snow conditions. If your group has to break trail on fresh powder, I would consider it is a physical feat to get all the way up in one day. It may not be too bad on compacted snow. If planning a two day trip I would suggest:

a) Make sure all the people in your group are very strong hikers;
b) Get an early start;
c) Make sure the group is prepared to spend the night snow camping in case the group falls short of the cabin

Have a great trip!

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 16, 2014 at 11:25 pm

Years ago, we were heading up to Ostrander, and I got my whole group of skiers there by 3 p.m. After an hour, we were all sitting around drinking hot tea as the shadows were getting longer on the slopes of the last 1.5 miles of trail. One group of relative beginners had reached that point 1.5 miles out when the sun set, so the slope was getting icy and they didn't know how to make their skis work. The beginners couldn't continue, so some of them were laying down in the snow to die. One person in their group was strong enough to continue up the hill to Ostrander to get help. He dragged in the door with the rest of us sitting around the table, and he told of the emergency that was setting in right then. So, we donned our coats and headlamps and a few other items, and we skied off downhill to the rescue. We found the beginners scattered across that hillside, so we began a triage. The ones that could get on their feet were urged to start moving uphill. The rest of us took their backpacks. For a couple of them, we poured hot Gatorade into them, and that brought them back to life. About two hours later, everybody was present and accounted for at Ostrander.

You really do not want to get into this situation.

–B.G.–

Justin Baker BPL Member
PostedNov 16, 2014 at 11:39 pm

Why wouldn't you take off your skis and continue walking towards the hut?
What kind of idiot gives up and sits in the snow in the middle of winter at night? (someone who has no backcountry experience at all?)

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 16, 2014 at 11:58 pm

"What kind of idiot gives up and sits in the snow in the middle of winter at night?"

1. Beginners who are in way over their heads.
2. Beginner skiers who don't have climbing skins for an icy track.
3. Skiers who got a late start away from Badger Pass.
4. Skiers who were not snacking enough to keep their strength up.
5. Skiers who get so tired and cold that they were going hypothermic. Then they didn't have the good judgment to keep going on foot.

It is made worse when it is beginners who did not know the exact trails to get to Ostrander. There is a trail junction 1.5 miles out, and if you read the trail sign wrong, you will be lost. They get demoralized, and then they can't do anything.

–B.G.–

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 17, 2014 at 12:12 am

I had sort of the opposite situation. I had made hut reservations far in advance. We signed out with the rangers at Badger Pass, and we were on the ski trail by 9 a.m. We got to the hut around 3 p.m., and to our amazement, the place was locked up tighter than a drum. We had no idea what had gone wrong. However, we were starting to size up the situation for a forced bivouac on the stone front porch of the place. We figured that if we huddled our sleeping bags close enough, we would make it through a cold night without many serious problems. Then I looked into breaking into the hut. All of the doors were locked, but the windows had metal gratings over them. Out of my backpack I produced some small vise-grip pliers, and I used those to back out the lag screws that fastened the gratings to the stone walls. After about 30 minutes, we had screws out and one grating lifted away. The glass and metal windows were chained from the inside, so I carefully used one padded elbow to break out one glass pane. Then I unchained the window and opened it on the inside. Each of us had to crawl under the grating, then over part of the window to drop into the hut interior, and it was cold and dark. We lit one candle, then lit the wood stove, and we were headed toward a decent situation.

Right then, the hutmaster showed up, unlocked the front door, and told us that we were all under arrest (joking). He saw that we did what we had to do, so he understood. He had intended to be there early in the day, but a sudden family emergency had called him away. He zoomed in to catch us before we got into too much trouble. The next day, we spent time to help him repair the window and replace the grating.

–B.G.–

Lori P BPL Member
PostedNov 17, 2014 at 7:08 am

It's true there are flags in the trees and the terrain is rolling and not terribly steep (in most places) and without avalanche potential.

However, one should go prepared to spend the night out in the snow – that's the warning I've seen on webpages for this and other such ski huts – especially if snowshoeing instead of skiing. As a rule of thumb, I cut the expected mileage for the day in half (if the group can hike 10 miles in a day, expect 5-6 when snowshoeing). Floundering in unbroken powder four feet deep really slows everyone down.

Take turns breaking trail, bring wire and nippers to repair a broken binding if needed, and bring plenty of calorie laden snacks. Coconut oil or coconut shreds are good. Plenty of dry socks and a dry base layer to change into for sleeping, a few hats and pairs of gloves per person, and either a balaclava or neck gaiter to pull up in the event the wind gets piercing while day temps are below freezing.

This is of course if this winter is a more typical one. Last winter we had enough snow in late April to snowshoe for a few days – after months of no snow at all below 10,000 feet. Short season for Badger, and no joy for those of us who like snowshoeing day trips. Microspikes were more typical for hiking last January, for those random stretches of frozen trail.

PostedNov 17, 2014 at 7:49 am

How far does one have to get from the ski area before you can camp… would a 1/4 mile down the road near the bathroom work…?

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 17, 2014 at 9:47 am

I've seen people who skied out a mile to Summit Meadow, then turned north and skied a mile to camp. I've camped near Bridalveil Campground and in Westfall Meadow.

–B.G.–

Elle Zhu BPL Member
PostedNov 17, 2014 at 10:47 pm

Thanks BPL community, as always you come through with some good, sound advice! Based on this, I think I should probably attempt with only strong hikers and under good weather conditions.

On a side note, anyone have a favorite day snowshoe trip in the Desolation Wilderness?

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 17, 2014 at 11:27 pm

"Based on this, I think I should probably attempt with only strong hikers and under good weather conditions."

Sometimes it is difficult to forecast the weather when you need to make an early Ostrander reservation.

One time I left Badger Pass with my skier group at 9:00 a.m., and there were just a few flakes of snow falling. After about four miles on the road, we turned south onto the trail as we paused for a snack, but the snow had picked up to a steady wet snow shower. The skiers without Goretex were getting wet and cold. After another four or five miles, we were climbing back up through the freeze line, and the wind had picked up. We were getting cold enough that we didn't want to stop for another snack, and that was probably wrong thinking. We kept climbing as the snow and wind got worse, and the lead skiers made it to the hut by 3:30 p.m. We dropped our packs and went back to help lead the slower skiers in. It was so cold! Once inside the hut, a fire was started while we each stripped down to our polypro to dry out.

The only good thing about it was the glorious knee-deep powder that covered everything by the next morning.

–B.G.–

PostedNov 18, 2014 at 12:30 pm

Hard to beat Echo to Aloha… 50 mostly open… $5 parking… Rubicon, but parking could be an issue… Tallac or its shoulders up to Gillmore (I have not done it though)… A couple approches from the west but not sure how far up they are plowed & again parking… in that area Loon Lake but it has been a life time for some since I was there…
someone else will weigh in no doubt…

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