Where can I buy Ti windscreen for Fosters Pot?

nm

http://www.titaniumgoat.com/windscreens.html

Bought ti foil here and made a stove and screen myself for cheap.

Hi Cameron.

How did you go putting holes in the Ti sheet? I have sharp punch bits but they didn't go through and of course a drill bit didn't work :(

Can not be blank… but I said it already…

"How did you go putting holes in the Ti sheet?"

I've punched holes in 0.005" titanium foil before. I used an ordinary hand paper punch that I got at the Dollar Store. When I started out, it worked well. However, it dulled against the titanium pretty quickly. After 10-15 holes, it was tough. So, I simply got another one at the Dollar Store and used it to finish the job. My total tool cost was $2.

If that size of paper punch is not what you seek, then you will need to look for some totally different tool.

–B.G.–

Suluk46

Pricey, but top notch.

I bought one from here http://fourdog.com/
Nice quality,good price

Ta Tom….that is as expensive as the Suluku46….might be looking at making my own at this rate

This is the screen I use with my stoves and I have folded/unfolded it a lot and it has held up. Can't beat $4.95 either.

http://www.traildesigns.com/accessories/classic-windscreen

Hi Heath,

I have checked it out on line thank you but it doesn't say what material it is made from? Can you tell me?

Ta, Mik.

"what material"

It is soft aluminum, heavier than aluminum foil.

Alternatively, I go to the Dollar Store and buy one disposable aluminum roasting pan. I cut off the parts that I don't need, and what is left is about right for a windscreen, but it depends on how tall and what circumference you want.

–B.G.–

> of course a drill bit didn't work
Quite easy to make a drill bit work with Ti foil.

Sandwich the foil tightly between two bits of hardwood (HARDwood, damn it, NOT MDF!) and drill. You may need to G-clamp the two bits together. Oh – and use a good brand SHARP HSS drill – which may disqualify all those cheap Chinese ones you get in kits. Kits are especially bad.

Cheers

At $30, probably more than you were thinking of spending, but the Nieko hole punch is great:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Power-Punch-Sheet-Metal/dp/B0002T87CW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416075860&sr=8-2&keywords=industrial+hole+punch

I've made dozens of titanium, stainless steel and aluminum windscreens with mine. Multiple punch sizes so you can experiment and see what works best with your particular system. You can make your own windscreens for the rest of your life with one of these tools.

That's a copy of the (probably more $$) Roper Whitney ones. I have the full set, metric and imperial. But even so, with the punch clearance you need for 16# mild steel, they will have problems with 0.005" Ti foil – or any foil that thin. They tend to pull the foil into the hole rather than cut it.

However, if you sandwich the Ti foil between two layers of Al or thin gal steel, it may work.

It is possible to punch foil more easily if you reshape the tip of the die. But that requires some careful grinding on a fine wheel.

Cheers

I started with a Neiko several years ago when I was experimenting with windscreens. When I decided to go into production I upgraded to a 3x more expensive Roper Whitney punch because my dad recommended it. I was surprised to find, at least as between the particular Neiko and Roper Whitney units I had, that the Neiko was superior. Better finish quality, closer tolerances and smoother, more consistent action. Perhaps an aberration, and hopefully not an assessment of the quality of US manufacturing.

In any event, I've used the Neiko to punch thousands of holes in .005" titanium and .004" stainless steel foil.

Early on I had a couple of issues with pulling/puckering the foil instead of cutting it cleanly when punching "larger" 9/32" holes less than 1/2" from the edge of the foil. Now I rough cut the foil with about an inch of clearance between hole locations and rough edge, punch smaller 3/16" holes, and trim the foil to final dimensions after punching. No need to sandwich, at least not for this particular tool/material/use combination.

The photo shows 3/16" holes punched in .004" stainless steel on the left and .005" titanium on the right.

Really?
I must investigate the Neiko punch&die sets then! The RW ones are designed for a heavier guage of steel imho – and the mech has longer handles.

Edit: Aha, I see. The Neiko goes up to 9/32"; the RW goes up to 17/32" (or 18/32").

Thank you.

Cheers