Breaking Slings

You should never place yourself in a situation where you might dynamically load a sling. The rope is there to absorb energy; tie in with it whenever possible. If you are worried about falling onto your tether, use a Purcell prusik.

Falling on a nylon sling may not break it but itll give you whiplash and back pains for a week

Sadly ive done it when forgetting to unclip while hangdoging

Dont fall on anything unless there is a rope in the system

If you do put yourself in such situations use a lanyard made of dynamic rope or a purcell

;)

Always have a dynamic rope in the system. (or one of the dynamic devices made for Via Ferrata etc.)

Exactly my point of posting.

Everybody should know not to do this. Seeing what actually happens and how little it takes to snap a sling is a different story.

This is why, if I'm multipitch climbing, I will always use the dynamic rope as my safety (just tie a clove hitch and clip it to a locker). Easier and safer than a dedicated safety.

When rappelling I just use a double-length nylon runner and shorten if necessary. I try to be really careful to stay below the anchors, too.

"Pretty crazy to think that a man of my size, falling only two feet onto a sling, can generate enough force to snap it, especially if there's a knot in it."

Might be a good argument for making some, not all, of your slings from dynamic rope? I'm talking specifically about slings that are not used when placing pro, where the climbing rope stretches and dissipates the energy, but rather those used as tethers.
Even so, given the short length of a sling, the benefit would be marginal. But maybe enough to make the difference between scary and disaster?

" I will always use the dynamic rope as my safety (just tie a clove hitch and clip it to a locker). Easier and safer than a dedicated safety."

Used to be SOP.

"Used to be SOP."

my used to be SOP involved 1" tubular nylon webbing; not this wimpy stuff people are using now to save weight… and two of them and two anchor points; not just one.

Of course, the rope is ideal, but sometimes you need the full length of the rope to the next anchor so not good if you need 8feet of rope for your belay anchor.

Billy

The only problem with the dynamic rope solution is that when canyoneering, you're not carrying dynamic rope.

Slings and PAS's seem to be the SOP in canyons from what I've seen. I've personally never used tethers in any other situation. And this video serves as good reminder as to why you'd better be damned careful.

True, but when canyoneering you're usually below the anchors and weighting them directly, so risk of shock loading the sling is fairly low.

A sling of any type is still better than clipping into the rubber loop instead of the dogbone on a quickdraw O.o

MEC sells dynamic climbing rope bu the metre

Lanyards made from dynamic rope have tested at significantly reduced impact force than most other alternatives

http://british-caving.org.uk/rope/lanyard_tests_v6.pdf

Even in factor 2 falls …

;)